Roadtrek isolator to aux battery issue

[Floorman]

I do not understand the technical issues of your post. The first thing I thought to do is to check the function of the current bypassed alternator in charging the Truck and the House battery. I think the way to do that is to not have the RT shore power connected but have the battery system on or maybe off. I'll test both ways. Before I start the truck I will test/read DC voltages at the battery terminals of both batteries on the multimeter. After I start the truck. I will again test/ read the DC voltages at the batteries both with the Battery on and then off. If I get a higher dc voltage reading at both batteries with the truck running, to me the Alternator is charging both batteries and the breakers are open. The quality of the charge might be another story and I'll be in by pass mode of the isolator. I do not understand how the breakers which are 120 vac have to do with alternator charge but there are interconnected wiring all over the place and I do not have a functioning converter charger at the moment as I have removed the dead bench tested Centurian 3000 CS4500 motherboard. I will be installing a Progressive Dynamics 9245 and wire it to the Centurian CS4500 dedicated Breaker (D2) and the 12vdc fuse bank buses to convert 120vac to 12vdc and to provide a 4 stage charging of the house battery which will become a 2 12v AGM wired parallel battery bank. I think getting the isolator either old Powerline or the new Surepower isolator functioning is the first step. I got all the parts, all the instructions and appreciate the help and advice even if I do not get the wording or the tech. I am the worst, a semi informed wannabe tech master. I hope while doing all this, I won't at some point get the shock of my life.

[booster]

I was simply telling you there is an easy way to test the breakers without doing continuity which can be hard if they are in a bad spot to get at. It will also check the cable so you know it isn't open somewhere.


Of course this would be the DC breakers in the line to the rear batteries from the front, not any 120v breakers if that is what you were referring to.

[KurtFranz]

Please keep us posted on your progress.

[Floorman]

Sorry but I am confused. You wrote
"If the breakers are working as in not failed open like they usually do, you should be able to just check the coach battery line to ground and if you have coach battery voltage the breakers have to be closed." I have no idea what "not failed open" means nor how to "check the battery line to open" and "if you have coach battery voltage the breakers have to be closed" yeah, I thought you were referring to 120 vac breakers

[Floorman]

The old Herh Powerline 33-22 is history. I was able to learn how to do a diode test on the old isolator and it is dead. Was able to figure out the by pass wiring and have successfully replaced the old isolator with the Surepower 130023A. The most difficult part was putting in the tek screws to hold the new isolator in place as the Powerline and Surepower do not match. I made a template out of thin Plywood to drill and get the screws in place and it slip right in and then able to get the bottom screws in. I did not need to use the 144-CD kit for the alternator plug as the PowerLine isolator wiring was already there. Turned out the alternator was not connected to the house battery at the isolator. I did use a new 50 amp breaker for the house battery cable and will be looking for the other 50 amp circuit breaker which I believe is on the passenger side of the propane tank. It is not called for in the Surepower schematic so i just might leave the thing alone except it might be a problem at some point going bad. Battery voltages were 12.47 and 12.36. With the truck running I got 14.47 and 14.42 . Thanks again to you all for this post and your contributions

[booster]

Failed open just means the breaker no longer works and is stuck in the open position so won't pass any current. Just like having a broken wire. By checking to see if there is coach battery voltage under the hood from the coach batteries you are just doing a simple continuity test without needing to disonnect the wires at the batteries. If there is battery voltage there, you have continuity.

[Floorman]

After getting everything connected to Surepower schematic,including a new 50 Amp breaker to the house battery. Then I took a voltage reading on the truck battery then connected the truck battery took another voltage reading the same, then did the same procedure with the house battery. I then diode tested the new installed Surepower isolator. I also did a new inline ATC water proof fuse holder with a 5 amp ATC fuse, the 6 amp ATC breaker is coming Tuesday. It was only after that that I started the truck and tested voltage at both the truck and then the house battery and got those 14.47 and 14.42 voltage readings. I'll certainly lookin for the 2nd breaker and will replace it as I have a new one. Thanks

[mike32355@gmail.com]

Thanks so much for your explanation and pictures. You were bang on with the circuit breaker by the rear wheel.