Roadtrek E trek Equalizer fuse is 2015

[Cryptofit]

Hello,

My battery and inverter have not been working correctly since I bought my used 2015 etrek . I have spent about $7000 so far paying incompetent RV techs, who don’t even test and just guess how they can make the most money out of my situation. Most recently The tech guy convinced to replace the inverter for $2300 I realized I got ripped off. And it did not even need to be replaced.

I’ve never had access to the microwave or stove unless I turn the engine on.

Now the inverter is completely useless because I can’t even turn the engine on and use the inverter. I can no longer use the 110 outlets Unless I’m plugged into shore power. In other words, the engine house batteries and house alternator are no longer charging the house batteries while driving. All of the batteries and alternator has been tested. They are fine.

I talked to one of the Roadtrek service employees and he said it is the fuse where the equalizer is located. Can someone explain how to find this and replace?

I know where the equalizer is located under the Ottoman on the driver side.

Several times I told technicians to please look for that but instead they replaced parts that did not need to be replaced or spent hours doing nothing and charging me. now I am learning how to do all of this myself and I will never go to a tech again

[sctucker]

The fuse is attached to the ottoman wall and is in line with the DC cables. If the fuse was blown it would cause the battery equalization to be off which may be causing the set of batteries that provide 12V to be discharged. Do you have any issue with the DC loads when running on batteries?

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by sctucker

The fuse is attached to the ottoman wall and is in line with the DC cables. If the fuse was blown it would cause the battery equalization to be off which may be causing the set of batteries that provide 12V to be discharged. Do you have any issue with the DC loads when running on batteries?

I asked a few detailed questions in a private message.. please see.

Here are my symptoms right now.

After a month of being plugged into shore power in storage,

- [ ] 12 V batteries started draining instantly and within an hour down to three dots on display.

- [ ] I was Only able to use the inverter for about one hour total to charge my iPad. No no longer can use

- [ ] After three days of no shore power I no longer have 12 volt access and having to turn the engine on just to charge my iPhone with the engine battery.

- [ ] As I said before I am unable to recharge the batteries with the engine running.

- [ ] I had to disconnect the House batteries because the smoke alarm is not getting enough power and keeps beeping.


Also as I mentioned before I have been unable to use my microwave or stove at all unless connected to shore.

I bought this RV for Boondocking and it has become the worst Boondocking vehicle in the universe.

[Cryptofit]

Can someone tell me what the screw tip number is for the square screws to open the panels under the Ottoman?

See image.

[hbn7hj]

They are called Robertson screw drivers. ACE hardware sells them #1 #2 #3. Buy all three. You will need them.

Keep at it. You will be able to make the battery system do what you want it to do. Between now and then you will learn a lot.

No off the shelf RV electrical system does well off grid. You will have to make some changes. Everyone here solves the problem in a different way so there are several solutions.

Starting from an Etrek may be a tough place to start but it is solvable. You will probably have to do the work yourself so get prepared for a steep learning curve.

You might try to pick up a sense of humor along the way. Bet you thought you were pretty smart when you bought that thing. You only believed what they told you!

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

They are called Robertson screw drivers. ACE hardware sells them #1 #2 #3. Buy all three. You will need them.

Keep at it. You will be able to make the battery system do what you want it to do. Between now and then you will learn a lot.

No off the shelf RV electrical system does well off grid. You will have to make some changes. Everyone here solves the problem in a different way so there are several solutions.

Starting from an Etrek may be a tough place to start but it is solvable. You will probably have to do the work yourself so get prepared for a steep learning curve.

You might try to pick up a sense of humor along the way. Bet you thought you were pretty smart when you bought that thing. You only believed what they told you!

Thanks for the info. It is the 2 square screwdriver

If I would’ve known that Rv tech had no clue what the equalizer was or even A eteek. I would never have bought it. I have been scammed at least 12 times because of a simple fuse that needs to be replaced.

Why aren’t these RVs tech trying to actually fix things instead of ripping you off all day long every day every single one of them?

So I open the Ottoman and I could not see a fuse under the Ottoman.

Is the fuse under the chassis? If so where?

Attached is an image of what I see under the Ottoman.

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

.

You might try to pick up a sense of humor along the way. Bet you thought you were pretty smart when you bought that thing. You only believed what they told you!

There is nothing funny about what I’ve been through as it relates to RV techs dealing with this issue. It is a long list and some of it is unspeakable.

You can scroll through a few of my Older post to have a taste. I am extremely angry and I will be for a while. I did not buy an RV to get scammed by people that supposed to be helping me. Or have my rv sabotaged just out of shear evil.

I should not have to fix this. It should’ve been fixed the first 10 times bought in. It is not my fault

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by Cryptofit

I should not have to fix this. It should’ve been fixed the first 10 times bought in. It is not my fault

Nope, but it is your fault now. As you have found no one will fix it but you.

You are correct that your first goal is to get it to work like it should. The knowledge you need is on this forum but I don’t have it. I don’t own an Etrek.

I think a fully functioning Etrek comes up short on off grid living. The battery modules have a 6 amp internal drain when turned on. Once you get it working like it should have when delivered then you can make changes to get it to work like it ought to.

Give a location smaller than Texas (nearest town). A successful Etrek owner may be nearby. Were you nearby I would bring a voltmeter over and try and figure it out for entertainment.

You have the Robertson screw drivers, next you need a digital volt/ohm meter.

I look up Cooper Bussman and all I see is fuses. I cannot find a module that looks like your picture to get an understanding of what it does.

[markopolo]

Seriously consider trading it in and get something that is reliable and easier to use.

The 8 batteries might be end-of-life and that could be a $3,000 invoice if you have to pay someone to replace them.

It's a 24V system and the equalizer shown in the photo you posted converts the 24V to 12V. If you understand this image:






Then you could try to diagnose the problems yourself. If that image doesn't mean much to you and you cannot find a competent technician to work on it then it's likely time to move on. The RV doesn't meet your needs and I recall from your previous posts that it has been an ongoing struggle to get it to work.

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Nope, but it is your fault now. As you have found no one will fix it but you.

You are correct that your first goal is to get it to work like it should. The knowledge you need is on this forum but I don’t have it. I don’t own an Etrek.

I think a fully functioning Etrek comes up short on off grid living. The battery modules have a 6 amp internal drain when turned on. Once you get it working like it should have when delivered then you can make changes to get it to work like it ought to.

Give a location smaller than Texas (nearest town). A successful Etrek owner may be nearby. Were you nearby I would bring a voltmeter over and try and figure it out for entertainment.

You have the Robertson screw drivers, next you need a digital volt/ohm meter.

I look up Cooper Bussman and all I see is fuses. I cannot find a module that looks like your picture to get an understanding of what it does.

So you don't know me. You don't know what I've been through. You don't know how many times I have talk to the Roadtrek tech support because I am dealing with technicians that refused to talk to them.

I have been on the phone with and know the top three tech-support for Roadtrek before they went out of business (Sean, matt, ryan) . I am not supposed to be calling tech-support but I am dealing with technicians that do not want to honor the warranty even if I'm broken down on the side of the road.

 roadtrek has put me in compromising positions because they would not talk to me and only wanted to talk to the Rv technician .

According to you I am supposed replace both my belts on the side of the road three months after I bought my used Roadtrek with no help?

I am supposed to fix my Roadtrek that has blown up house battery under the hood and Mercedes battery on fire under my seat?? In the freezing cold temperaturesSeven months after I bought my Roadtrek ??


I am supposed to walk over from my hotel to the RV repair shop where the owner turns out to be an alcoholic and does not even show up to fix my RV for two weeks and will not talk to the Roadtrek technician support?

I am supposed to sit there and watch the technicians to make sure they don't sabotage my RV by throwing a whole package of baby wipes down the toilet? Or remove all the bolts to the second alternator just because I told them they have to shim the belts? Or make sure they don't loosen all the wires causing popping and was potential fire hazard?

And that is not even the unspeakable stuff. I could go on.

Please don't be so heartless. I did my research. I did not deserve what I got as far as treatment from Roadtrek and the Rv technicians. And what you are doing now is not appropriate.

I have been on dozens of forums Facebook groups etc. I should not have to repair broken down RVs in the middle of freezing cold temperatures and carry extra batteries and everything else with me. If you are going to just flame people for no reason you should not be on this forum.

Do you think I am talking about just trying to Boondock? I'm just trying to have a normal RV that does not break down in the middle of the road and just provide a normal amount of power. That's all I ask. I should be able to use my inverter for more than one hour. The under hood batteries should be charging the house batteries. They are not. Is that too much to ask? It is my fault.? I am to blame.? Not appropriate.

I’ve already bought everything you just mentioned

I all the testing myself as well as several other people
So you don't know me. You don't know what I've been through. You don't know how many times I have talk to the Roadtrek tech support because I am dealing with technicians that refused to talk to them.

I have been on the phone with and know the top three tech-support for Roadtrek before they went out of business (Sean, matt, ryan) . I am not supposed to be calling tech-support but I am dealing with technicians that do not want to honor the warranty even if I'm broken down on the side of the road.

 roadtrek has put me in compromising positions because they would not talk to me and only wanted to talk to the Rv technician . So you must not own a Roadtrek and do not know what you're talking about. They do not want you working on your own Roadtrek.

According to you I am supposed replace both my belts on the side of the road three months after I bought my used Roadtrek with no help?

I am supposed to fix my Roadtrek that has blown up house battery under the hood and Mercedes battery on fire under my seat?? In the freezing cold temperaturesSeven months after I bought my Roadtrek ??


I am supposed to walk over from my hotel to the RV repair shop where the owner turns out to be an alcoholic and does not even show up to fix my RV for two weeks and will not talk to the Roadtrek technician support?

I am supposed to sit there and watch the technicians to make sure they don't sabotage my RV by throwing a whole package of baby wipes down the toilet? Or remove all the bolts to the second alternator just because I told them they have to shim the belts? Or make sure they don't loosen all the wires causing popping and was potential fire hazard?

And that is not even the unspeakable stuff. I could go on.

Please don't be so heartless. I did my research. I did not deserve what I got as far as treatment from Roadtrek and the Rv technicians. And what you are doing now is not appropriate.

I have been on dozens of forums Facebook groups etc. I should not have to repair broken down RVs in the middle of freezing cold temperatures and carry extra batteries and everything else with me. If you are going to just flame people for no reason you should not be on this forum.

Do you think I am talking about just trying to Boondock? I'm just trying to have a normal RV that does not break down in the middle of the road and just provide a normal amount of power. That's all I ask. I should be able to use my inverter for more than one hour. The under hood batteries should be charging the house batteries. They are not. Is that too much to ask? It is my fault.? I am to blame.? Not appropriate.

I have already bought everything you have just mention. Only question I have is where can I find the equalizer fuse? If somebody could please answer that question I could go on from there. If you don’t have the answer please don’t reply was stuff that does not apply thank you.

[markopolo]

Cryptofit - I think you totally misunderstood hbn7hj's post.

Everyone here will agree with you that the RV should have worked. It doesn't work and you can't change the past.

All you can do is decide what to do going forward.

I see two breakers in the photo you posted and that appears to be the required protection shown in the Equalizer installation instructions. Here's the link: http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...ST_180156a.pdf

[hbn7hj]

You have my sympathy. Marcopolo’s diagram is very helpful to me. Others have been complaining about that system from the beginning. You are not the first and I did read the other threads.

I think Marcopolo is on to something. First you have to be certain you have 8 good batteries.

To do that they need to be isolated into 12 volt pairs and charged. That is where I would start. Forget about the equalizer fuse for now but I think there are two fuses/breakers in the picture.

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Seriously consider trading it in and get something that is reliable and easier to use.

The 8 batteries might be end-of-life and that could be a $3,000 invoice if you have to pay someone to replace them.

It's a 24V system and the equalizer shown in the photo you posted converts the 24V to 12V. If you understand this image:






Then you could try to diagnose the problems yourself. If that image doesn't mean much to you and you cannot find a competent technician to work on it then it's likely time to move on. The RV doesn't meet your needs and I recall from your previous posts that it has been an ongoing struggle to get it to work.

Thank you for providing the image of that diagram. I have seen it dozens of times before. Can you show me where the fuse for the equalizer is located on that diagram?

believe me, if I could trade in this RV I would have months ago. Unfortunately the bank owns it.

[markopolo]

I see two breakers in the photo you posted and that appears to be the required protection shown in the Equalizer installation instructions. Here's the link:http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...ST_180156a.pdf

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

You have my sympathy. Marcopolo’s diagram is very helpful to me. Others have been complaining about that system from the beginning. You are not the first and I did read the other threads.

I think Marcopolo is on to something. First you have to be certain you have 8 good batteries.

To do that they need to be isolated into 12 volt pairs and charged. That is where I would start. Forget about the equalizer fuse for now

Thank you for your understanding. And kind words.

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by markopolo

I see two breakers in the photo you posted and that appears to be the required protection shown in the Equalizer installation instructions. Here's the link:http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...ST_180156a.pdf

Thank you for looking at the image I provided.

Where are the two breakers? Is there no fuse?

Is there a way to reset the breakers?

According to Sean from Roadtrek if there is a equalizer there should be a fuse or a “reset button” ( my words). That is what I am looking for. Thanks

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by Cryptofit

Thank you for looking at the image I provided.

Where are the two breakers? Is there no fuse?

Is there a way to reset the breakers?

According to Sean from Roadtrek if there is a equalizer there should be a fuse or a “reset button” ( my words). That is what I am looking for. Thanks

I’m sure Marcopolo will respond. For your purposes the term fuse and breaker are the same. Look or feel around those two small black boxes for the button you seek. Before you do that you could get your voltmeter and put the black lead on the ground line and see if you get the same voltage on both terminals on the small black boxes. If you do they do not need to be reset.

Keep talking to us.

[markopolo]

That's the limit of what I can do. I'd urge caution as the breaker terminals will be at 24V+ on one breaker and 12V+ on the other breaker. The coach body will be ground so there's the potential to get shocked.

[Cryptofit]

Originally Posted by markopolo

That's the limit of what I can do. I'd urge caution as the breaker terminals will be at 24V+ on one breaker and 12V+ on the other breaker. The coach body will be ground so there's the potential to get shocked.

Exactly! and why I should not be working on it myself. But looks like the only way it’s going to get done .

If anyone here has had experience with this please reply. Thanks

[booster]

Originally Posted by Cryptofit

Exactly! and why I should not be working on it myself. But looks like the only way it’s going to get done .

If anyone here has had experience with this please reply. Thanks

From the looks of Marko's diagram, we are looking at an 8 AGM battery etrek, which from what we have seen here has been a lot of trouble for a lot of owners, with little help from Roadtrek even when they were still in business before the fall.


But that doesn't do you any good. There is a mobile independent tech who is very good on Roadtreks from what we hear. We hear mostly about lithium, but likely he would be able to help you also. I think his name is Dan Neely (sp) and hopefully someone will have a number.


I would agree that it may be time to trade it off on something simpler and easier to maintain, as you are not a DIY type, which IMO is probably what is needed.


There have been a lot of discussions of how to fix the problems, and IMO the best would be to tear the whole electrical out and switch it to 6 eight volt batteries all in the rear, new inverter charger, 24 to 12v converter for the coach, but that is a lot of money in parts and if you don't DIY lots in labor. Cut and run may be the best bet.


Good luck in whatever you decide.