Quote:
Originally Posted by booster
Blue Sea makes several versions of them that are very high quality but pretty expensive compared to some others out now. Numerous folks on here have various ones and would have a better idea of those units. We have used a couple version of Blue Sea ones and have settled on a full manual unit as suits or use pattern best. The make it an automatic version also. It is nice because it has a manual override on the unit itself and a remote switch for in the cab. The one on the unit locks it out for servicing safety and the inside one is for daily use as needed in both the auto and manual models.
Are you looking for similar function as the original unit Roadtrek used?
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I was just poking around the posts and decided to add a bit to this thread
Please note this is still the old-school setup, no solar, wet cell batteries, etc.
I had a couple of issues about a year ago on our RT 210P - one was the momentary switch for the battery in the control panel and the other was the Eaton 1315-200 battery separator. While I was at it, I also replaced the Intellitec 01-00055-000 RV battery disconnect solenoid relay (located under the bed, passenger side rear wheelwell).
The momentary switch was simple worn out, replaced with identical version. If you do this take a picture of the wiring as there are 6 wires connected to it, and disconnect the coach batteries.
The Intellitec solenoid was simple PM, and I kept the old one stashed in the van. Just a direct replacement.
The 1315 separator was starting to delay switching. I know that heat and corrosion can be an issue, but I also did not like the heat generated from the constant amperage draw needed to maintain closed contacts. As Booster noted the Blue Sea is a great replacement - I installed the Blue Sea auto 7622 unit in the same spot as the 1315 (engine compartment) and the remote switch into the dash. I'm aware of the recall on some of the Eaton separators, ours wasn't on the list though.
I did make a metal plate to attach to the engine cowling, then attached the 7622 to that, with a .25" air space between the the plate and the 7622.
The remote switch easily mounted into one of the dash panel sections. Wiring was routed through an existing grommet in the firewall just adjacent to the accelerator pedal and secured.
I didn't think that I would use the remote switch that much, but I've found for me at least, it's pretty handy. I've used it numerous times to just charge the coach batteries or to run the fridge the night before we leave for somewhere without having to have all batteries connected.
The other benefit is that the 7622 doesn't need all that amperage of the 1315 to stay latched so it generates very low heat. There's enough heat in the engine compartment that the unit absorbs, let alone generating it's own additional heat. The 1315 would get too hot to put your hand on without any engine heat added in.
Since this stuff has been installed, everything has worked perfectly. I also have an inexpensive battery monitor in the van just to see charging voltage to the coach batteries.
Roadtrek 2013 210 Separator failures
Linear Mode
