Professionally Installed Solar System

Sensfan · 06-20-2020, 02:04 AM

Solar discussion posts on this forum are very informative. I am considering having a solar system installed in our 2012 190-Roadtrek Ranger. It appears that you DIY guys use experimentation as a main tool to identify and build optimal systems for your equipment's unique electric characteristics. Since I am not a DIY guy, my concern is that a professionally installed system will be built on a time line, and that the final installed product may or may not consider all of the unique electric characteristics of my Roadtrek. Your thoughts?

mkguitar · 06-20-2020, 02:29 AM

1.) requires you park in the sun

2.) mpg

3.) panels at optimal sun angle for at most a few hours

those are the 3 obstacles I see

mike

booster · 06-20-2020, 03:11 AM

The big thing with all this stuff is how well it matches what you want it to do.

You will need to look at your goals for power recovery based on how much you would like to be able to use that power. If you don't have a battery monitor already, put one in first, so you can see how much power you currently use and what is using it.

How long do you want to be off grid? How much do you drive and how often? Are you intending other upgrades like more batteries, better charging, etc? Future compressor frig? Is there a generator?

Just take the stuff in order, starting with what you use now (based on a monitor, not specs or times run), and then what you would need to gain, both essential and non essential. Then figure how much solar you need to cover the need. A good starting point is about 30ah of charging per 100 watt panel in good sun. Over time using half that much is prudent for most areas of the country because of sun variations.

Lots of help in past discussions on solar and charging, and lots of members willing to help on here.

Many of us have been down that road and gotten good results that suit our needs well.

Sensfan · 06-20-2020, 03:48 AM

Thanks for the feedback. Our Roadtrek Ranger roof has an upper centre strip that signiicantly limits space for rigid panels, so I will research the pros and cons of using portable panels. I am planning to increase the number of AGMs from two to four with the final goal of getting in 5 to 7 days of boon docking. The first thing i will do is have a battery monitor installed.

SteveJ · 06-20-2020, 04:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sensfan

Thanks for the feedback. Our Roadtrek Ranger roof has an upper centre strip that signiicantly limits space for rigid panels, so I will research the pros and cons of using portable panels. I am planning to increase the number of AGMs from two to four with the final goal of getting in 5 to 7 days of boon docking. The first thing i will do is have a battery monitor installed.

Good plan on the monitor. With my usage I would be good for 6 to 7 days with no charging with your current battery set up. Monitoring the monitor will give solid info for your solar upgrade. I have 150 watts of portable solar and it is more than enough.

GallenH · 06-20-2020, 05:45 AM

Not sure about your exact roof configuration but some of the portable suitcase panels actually consist (of course) of 2 that fold. My 100W renogy is actually 2 50W panels connected together. These could be separated and straddle your center restriction. So perhaps a combination of these would solve your roof problem. mkguitar's comment is, however, worth considering. Do you want to park your RV in the sun to get optimal power? On the other hand, I don't know how effective roof panels are when parked in the shade. Less, I'm sure but how much, I don't know.

rowiebowie · 06-20-2020, 06:07 AM

Sensfan, check out this video at the 3:40 mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3ntWRe6gq0

It is of a 2014 RT 190P Anniversary Edition. When it came out, it was touted as have an inch or two more headroom since it used the extended fiberglass top from the Ranger model like yours. It's other feature was the 300 watts of rooftop solar.

My point is, if indeed the top is the same as your Ranger, then theoretically you have the same roof space for solar.

booster · 06-20-2020, 11:46 AM

300 watts on the roof of a Chevy Roadtrek, in the form of three panels mounted behind the fan, is quite doable. We have had such a system for years. We also have a 4 battery AGM setup in our 07 C190P.

If we get good sun, we can stay offgrid essentially forever with our usage of 40-60 amp hours per day. Our biggest user is the compressor frig, and without that we would be in the 20-30 amp hour per day range. We don't run air conditioning on batteries, but have extra fans. Bad sun is what will limit your time offgrid, as in cloudy, rainy, shady conditions, we can see our 90ah per day of solar be only 10% of that. Our target was 5-7 days on just batteries if necessary, which we could do but have not needed to in about 5 years of use of this system. We have no generator, but do have dual alternators that can give us a days worth of use in 15-20 minutes, so a trip to the dump station, store, or a trailhead, will give a couple of days of use in most cases.

Our system is pretty well documented on the forum and is built around 4 GC2 Lifeline AGM batteries mounted under the van where the generator used to be and upgraded shore and solar charging systems that us very accurate charging controls. It has worked out very well for us to this point.

markopolo · 06-20-2020, 01:14 PM

Booster's 300W setup is shown here: https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...olar-3407.html

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It was about 15yrs ago that I had a 20W panel on a Roadtrek but I still remember thinking back then that an amp in is better than an amp out when camping off grid.

I've owned 6 RV's and all had/have permanently mounted solar. Three had solar when purchased & 3 were DIY. It's not expensive if you only want or target modest efficiency / roof utilization. Maybe $2 per watt or so now DIY with a PWM controller if you catch sale prices.

It gets more expensive when you have to buy specific dimension panels to fit an area and use higher efficiency controllers but worth it if needed.

Regardless of the route taken, I think adding solar is a great idea. The only exception would be for those RV's with very large lithium battery banks with high output alternators. For those, it kind of seems unnecessary to have solar.

Some primarily associate solar input with actual use of the RV when camping. The benefits of solar are there even when not using the RV maintaining the batteries so they're ready for you to use.

Sensfan · 06-20-2020, 05:54 PM

Thanks again. I believe that I now have more than enough information to plan for a 2021 solar installation.
One more question ... is it possible to place hinged rigid solar panels on a van? I have read that optimal energy collection efficiency requires an angle equal to the earth's latitude (at the rv's location).

booster · 06-20-2020, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sensfan

Thanks again. I believe that I now have more than enough information to plan for a 2021 solar installation.
One more question ... is it possible to place hinged rigid solar panels on a van? I have read that optimal energy collection efficiency requires an angle equal to the earth's latitude (at the rv's location).

You can and several have been done on B's that I have seen, but in general nobody every tilted them as it was a PITA to do all the time. The loss of collection is real, but depends a lot on location and time of year how big it really is.

There are a couple of different solar harvesting calculators in various threads on the forum that could probably still be found, but bottom line is that most just size for about what we are going to need based on what others have collected in similar, horizontal, use.

Determined · 06-25-2020, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sensfan

Solar discussion posts on this forum are very informative. I am considering having a solar system installed in our 2012 190-Roadtrek Ranger. It appears that you DIY guys use experimentation as a main tool to identify and build optimal systems for your equipment's unique electric characteristics. Since I am not a DIY guy, my concern is that a professionally installed system will be built on a time line, and that the final installed product may or may not consider all of the unique electric characteristics of my Roadtrek. Your thoughts?

We have a 2017 popular 210. We had a solar panel installed in California and it was very reasonable- $1600. We have had absolutely no trouble with it for 2 years now. They do it all the time and it didn't take long. They wanted $4200 in Florida for the same thing.

It has been WELL WORTH It!. My wife said it's the best thing she did for the van. The other was installing fog lamps. It keeps the house batteries well charged.

Occasionally when they has been a few cloudy days in a row, we just start up the truck or you can plug it in for a short time and then you are ready to go.
Saves a lot of aggravation and you can now literally go anywhere. If you are in a place that gives you trouble for starting the generator, no worries.

Storysrvwego · 06-25-2020, 07:19 PM

It would be interesting to find someone that could be called a professional installer of solar on an RV. The wide range of vehicles and coaches built in or on the many vehicle-chassis out there will mean that anyone will have to combine electrical knowledge, solar panel & charger knowledge, RV specific model electrical knowledge and mechanical mounting of panels with perhaps some bracket fabrication required. And how to route proper type & size wiring from the panels through the van roof, into the RV. This latter point requires some careful thinking about how to deal with interior ceiling, side wall panels and/or cabinets with a mind of where to locate display & control panel, and access to battery feed line terminations. Perhaps something I have missed besides picking the best solar controller, panel, what fuse blocks to use and especially where they are located. And by all means whoever does the work, document every part used and a correct schematic diagram along with all product sheets for the RV owner to keep on file.

It seems so simple in concept - Panel(s) with wires connect to a faceless electronics box, hidden inside the coach someplace. More wires connect the box to the coach batteries. And somewhere a control panel is stuck on a wall and connects to that hidden box too. Much planning to do it right within a specific model RV. Cost will zoom quickly, depending on number and type of panels used and the controller. Wires run from panels into the van? Or a panel connection box located on the roof where one or more panels can be plugged in. Some RV's have another connector down on the side of the van where a portable panel can be plugged in. Why? Because most of us will rather park our RV in a shady spot if we can find it-because the metal box we stay in gets blazing hot through the day. Roof solar panels will not be generating power if we picked the shady spot. One or more portable panels with enough wire can be set outside the shade area. Of course more work to setup and take down besides the camp chairs and table, kids toys, unhook or hok back up the towed vehicle or boat, etc. Pleasure trip or more work than staying home. hahah - just trying to cover the bases of what the real world might be. Me?

I presently have up to 100 watts in ideal conditions from a high quality rigid panel mounted flat on my roof rack so no more holes in the van roof. It's plugged into a multi port box that has fuses, and covers a hole in the roof where the wires are snaked down an interior wall to the electronics box and display panel. I intend to add a second panel of same or close to same watt output but at this time, the 100 watt max panel is doing a fine job of minor battery energy replacement. Since my wife and I travel these days on the pavement with our stops mostly at places where we can plug in AC power, we don't need more. Our principal drain on battery power is actually when I use my HF ham radio transmitter when our Class B is parked where we don't have AC power connected or perhaps not kind to others to run the onboard generator.

Should you do this solar addition? Definitely. How much solar? Depends-- but I'd go for about 300 watts if roof real estate and the pocket book allows. More? Your likely going to have to get creative on the type and location of panels you can carry and deploy at your stops. Value added to an older RV? Hmmm. Probably won't change the price you can sell it for but might be a preferred choice for the next used RV buyer over an RV that doesn't have it. Maybe look into a new Class B with at least a base system already factory installed. But of course, easy to say and not so easy to whip out the down payment, let alone outright purchase of a $60k to $150k for the approximate range of buying a new Class B.

Custom RV builders may take on your solar addition project to your existing RV. It won't come cheap. And I suspect weeks if not months in advance before they can get to it. If someone can do it right away, I'd be wary of their skills. Don't pay them up front or at least no more than a reasonable advance to cover materials and X hours of labor. Lots to consider. But done right, a great addition!

Sensfan · 06-25-2020, 09:00 PM

Thanks ... great advice all the way around. My priority is to find an established reputable installation business that will provide direct contact information of its previous clients, so that I can get testimonials.

kmessinger · 06-25-2020, 09:20 PM

If you are in Oregon or close, https://amsolar.com/ can do the job.

In Grand Junction, CO. Back Country Solar can do it.

This is why I am upgrading someday (right after my lottery win) to a Winnebago Travato GL or KL.

Good luck!

Sensfan · 06-25-2020, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmessinger

If you are in Oregon or close, https://amsolar.com/ can do the job.
In Grand Junction, CO. Back Country Solar can do it.
This is why I am upgrading someday (right after my lottery win) to a Winnebago Travato GL or KL.
Good luck!

Thanks. I have contacted AM Solar in Oregon. They provided a short list of affiliated Canadian businesses; there is a new one in Ontario north of Toronto that I plan on visiting this summer. The visit will give me a feel for the operation and allow the installers to assess my RT's conversion suitability prior to discussing installation options.

MarCorpsMustang · 07-20-2020, 08:24 PM

I used SolaRVs for my upgrade (SolaRVs.com – #1 RV Solar Consultants). Changed from OEM batteries and configuration in our 2014 Roadtrek CS Adventurous to 400Ah and 3000W of power.

themexicandoctor · 07-20-2020, 08:53 PM

Don't know if its been mentioned here but owners like Booster have the Dual Alternators option installed.

Even though I have lready installed 250 watts of panels, Lifeline AGM Batteries & all the best gadgetry, there is a steep learning curve for all of us.

Then there is the latest discussion - ideal* integration of all the systems.

What I have learnt is that on rigs, of all sizes, even if you get the 300 watts Booster has installed, Solar isn't the magic bullet, all year round.

Hence Booster's Dual Alternator set up that others far more competent than I, also utilize on their rigs.

However, you are in the right place anywhere that the Giants anongst us, Booster, Dayvvd, Marco Polo & others weigh in.

*a better description is more accurate; getting the best out of all your combined systems.

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