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Originally Posted by hbn7hj
A quick look gets a purchase price of around $3k, in stock, and free shipping. I think someone around here got better than that. It does not appear they are back ordered anymore.
There are install problems to solve like the exhaust system. It is different on the new one and no one has posted about the changes required.
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Just completed (DYI) the removal and replacement of the old KV Spec F Onan in my 02C190P with the new 2.8HGLAA-8303A. The easiest retrofit connection (and the best) was the exhaust. If you can find one buy the A0465728 36"straight pipe connection. The exhaust pipe is 1 1/4 OD and fits and clamps over the 90 degree Gen outlet el that is located in the driver side bottom front driver out of the side of the new Gen. It lines up perfect where the old KV exhaust exited the RT behind the rear driver side wheel. I used the old hanger with a new clamp. Other connections needed on my 02C is the remote switch (0300-5332) for a new hour meter and primer function and a new remote harness (338-3489-02). Make sure you get the 30-footer as the part numbers are nearly the same. (-01 for the 10-footer). While the connecting plug for the Gens are the same, the new Gen needs a 5-wire harness (the old harness is 4-wire) for Primer and LED Diagnostics function. I rerouted the new harness up the pass side rear door jam passage under the bed, behind the water closet removing the outside panel of the WC up to a passage to the existing switch location cavity. Had to cut off the switch end plug to route the cable and spliced it back on in the switch cavity space. Do a better job than I did marking the wires. The 12 vdc needs a 6 foot #2 battery cable with 5/16 ring ends ready made from Amazon. The negative side is a 8 awg either direct to the battery or to the frame or both as Cummins Tech support advised. The Install instructions are lacking but Cummins Tech Support has been great. The 120 vac output needs about 3 1/2 ft of 1/2" liquid type 1/2" conduit. Dig out the silicone inside the van electric cabinet to access the spin off nut on the chassis side end of the old liquid Tite 1/2 connector. The old connector is a Hubbell swivel fitting that had broken apart so use a metal 90 instead and caulk it again inside and out. The KV retro (A043F935) kit is basically a 1x1x1x 1/8 thick z bar shape bar stock. It seemed expensive but it's necessary to undermount the new Gen. I had removed the old KV undermount to treat rust and refinish. When installing the New Gen I first reinstalled the old KV mount to it's RT bracket but attached the retro kit bars to the Gen. The top side of the old KV mount has welded nuts that were rusted and questionable, so I cut them off. I used the garage jack to lift the Gen (The RT needed to be on 6" homebuilt ramps for clearance) and then was able to have the room to adjust the lift going up. I used new grade 8 bolts 3/8 x 1 and nuts where needed rather than the Grade 5 that came with the retro kit. The fuel line is a vital issue for safety and for future performance of the New Gen. The PO had had a service on the old KV and there was a barbed fitting splice and a marriage of new hose to old up near the frame. The existing old hose is tie strapped to the RT filler pipe running to an unknown to me connection in the main gas tank and is accessible in the rear driver side wheel well. Would greatly appreciate a photo or description of the work necessary of the tank hose connection to replace the entire hose from tank to gen. I used the same barbed fitting after removing the wheel. Maybe an inline fuel filter would be better than the barbed fitting. The old hose end split when I first pushed the new hose with the fitting already connected into it. I cut it back sprayed WD40 (recommended in the Installation instructions) git it connected and called it good knowing it is not. Did the last checks after all the connections were completed like the oil level and gas in the tank, disconnection of the shore power and all 120 vac circuits in the RT, hit the remote start button and it started immediately running quiet and steady. I let it run for 5 minutes, tried the microwave but there was no power. Lots of testing, checking the breaker in the Gen multiple times disconnected the 120 output from the Auto transfer to meter the wiring, no power out of the Gen. Have after a few days resolved the output issue with the help of FB RV Generator Onan Group suggestions. They advised checking the breaker connections in the Gen. While checking the Breaker with a wireless AC volt detector on the harness, I got a trace readings flipping the breaker on and off. and finally power out of the 120 output. DIY hacks like myself, have to be persistent. Everything worked and tested fine in the RT. I ran it 1 hour, let it rest, ran another hour while doing yard work. Just when I was climbing in to turn it off it stalled out with #36 code. The code is for a mechanical deficiency for fuel. Could be a blockage in the hose, filter or even low gas in the tank. I shifted the RT with my fat ass climbing in just before it stalled. Looks like I have sufficient gas near 1/4 full but gauges on a new to me vehicle can be deceiving. The plan is to clean up the tools and things inside the RT, get it off the ramps to level ground and give it a go. I'll try that going up hill, downhill and keep the fingers crossed. If it works, then I'll get some gas. If not, then trouble shooting the old hose, the splice and the possibility of the dreaded lowering the tank for new hosing. This long comment is part of this morning's search for gas tank / Gen connection info. I just had to share the retro fit adventure. You don't need to worry about the exhaust fit for the new 2800i. It easy peasy compared to the fuel hose.
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