Need advise on wied electrical issues!

[synergy]

I have 1 2009 Navion (2008 MB sprinter chassis). Everything was in good order, 4 - new batteries, everything worked well. I keep it plugged into the house, left it for two weeks while away, ad then this…

House AC won’t come on, it just clicks and the theromostat won't work. The frig and heater won’t come on, as well as some of the outlets, but some of the outlets work. The vent fan works great.

Key fob’s won't work, I replaced the batteries and checked all 3 key fobs, they won't work.

I’ve checked every fuse and break I could find, house and chassis. Some of the breakers/fuses I don;t know how to determine if they’re good or bad, but I pulled them out and placed them back in their respective block positions.

I’m having no luck and need to get on the road.

I’m looking for advise, please. Thanks!

My signature is old, I’ll try and update it now.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by syenrgy58

I have 1 2009 Navion (2008 MB sprinter chassis). Everything was in good order, 4 - new batteries, everything worked well. I keep it plugged into the house, left it for two weeks while away, ad then this…

House AC won’t come on, it just clicks and the theromostat won't work. The frig and heater won’t come on, as well as some of the outlets, but some of the outlets work. The vent fan works great.

Key fob’s won't work, I replaced the batteries and checked all 3 key fobs, they won't work.

I’ve checked every fuse and break I could find, house and chassis. Some of the breakers/fuses I don;t know how to determine if they’re good or bad, but I pulled them out and placed them back in their respective block positions.

I’m having no luck and need to get on the road.

I’m looking for advise, please. Thanks!

My signature is old, I’ll try and update it now.

While I'm sorry to hear of your problems, one post in the past 13 yrs. seems to indicate you've had great luck until now. At least I hope that's the case.

Someone with your year Sprinter will be along soon enough, but in the meantime, how about posting pics or listing your major electrical components by brand and model number to help others offer suggestions?

And we hear you, chassis and engine batteries are good right to your fob batteries.

[mkguitar]

with the 120 volt AC circuits, check for a tripped GFCI breaker/outlet


( on pleasureways the tripped outlet in the head may affect the galley and outside outlets)


with a keyfob issue- ensure that there are no nearby electrical or radio devices
( many vehicles have trouble with the mobil speedpass pumps and my Harley Needs to be rolled away from the pumps...Harleys may also have trouble if other vehicles are too close)

this looks to be multiple issues..lightning strike?
do you have a voltmeter and can check power at the house outlet, thru your cord to the van?


probably right that a sprinter owner needs to chime in regarding the key fob, don;t some of them have a switch somewhere by the left leg?


mike

[synergy]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

with the 120 volt AC circuits, check for a tripped GFCI breaker/outlet


( on pleasureways the tripped outlet in the head may affect the galley and outside outlets)


with a keyfob issue- ensure that there are no nearby electrical or radio devices
( many vehicles have trouble with the mobil speedpass pumps and my Harley Needs to be rolled away from the pumps...Harleys may also have trouble if other vehicles are too close)

this looks to be multiple issues..lightning strike?
do you have a voltmeter and can check power at the house outlet, thru your cord to the van?


probably right that a sprinter owner needs to chime in regarding the key fob, don;t some of them have a switch somewhere by the left leg?


mike

You tube has numerous videos about keyless remote controls not functioning properly, however the ones I’ve tried have not worked as of yet. Suggestions from the crowd have been to “take it to the dealer”. Hm? Dealer, an MB dealer=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$, every time.

I have a dedicated 50 amp RV style outlet where I keep my rig plugged into; no issues here, I’ve checked. I have power going into the rig, just not to everything.

I’ll just keep working on it till I figure it out, somehow.

[synergy]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

While I'm sorry to hear of your problems, one post in the past 13 yrs. seems to indicate you've had great luck until now. At least I hope that's the case.

Haven’t had too many issues, but with the ones I have had, I’ve used “Sprinter-Source” mostly, since my rig is MB Sprinter based. Over the years, I was not very successful finding Sprinter info from this site. I see this has changed some, with more people buying into Sprinters. Maybe I’ll get some useful assistnace, maybe not, it’s always hit and miss on forums.

I’l keep looking.

[markopolo]

Page 52 in the operator manual shows how to reset the AC panel breakers & page 53 shows how to test and reset the GFCI.

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/m...9/09Navion.pdf

Have you tried running things on generator power?

[synergy]

Thanks for the link to the manual, GREAT stuff, makes it a lot easier to browse!

I did in fact replace the GFIC, as a precautionary measure but it didn’t change anything. I’m still searching, as I can bare the heat and humidity. It’s very hot and humid here in Florida right now, so I’m trying to delve into the Navie as I can tolerate the misery.

I’ve mad three runs through Canada, to Anchorage, and loved very kilometer of my travels. I love Larid hot springs, boondock there for a few days each time. It’s so peaceful in the Yukon territory; I could move there.

Thanks!

[synergy]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Page 52 in the operator manual shows how to reset the AC panel breakers & page 53 shows how to test and reset the GFCI.

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/m...9/09Navion.pdf

Have you tried running things on generator power?

Sorry, forget to do the quote part.

[Hatteras Jim]

You said that your van is on a 50 amp service. I thought most vans were 30 amps back then. I am detailing the steps for a 50 amp service as you stated. 30 amp plug has 3 contacts (one round and 2 flat) sort of in a triangular pattern. A 50 amp plug will have 4 contacts (one round and 3 flat).



It does sound like something bizarre happened. Power surge, ground lightning strike, gremlins? You are in Fl aren't you?



If you do not have technical experience with electricity; you may want to enlist someone that does. RV wiring (especially on the 50 amp side) is slightly different from house wiring. You can get killed. Safety message over, proceed at your own risk. It sounds like you have checked the obvious so IMO you are looking at a wiring or contact issue. Breakers are checked by using a voltmeter (if you don't have one, now would be a good time to buy one. Be sure it will read AC and DC). One lead to the neutral buss and the other to the breaker screw: Should read 120V.



I think you need to start at the beginning and do not assume anything (like your 50 amp outlet is OK or your power cord is OK). Even if you read 120V on both legs with a voltmeter, under load with bad wiring or corroded connector it could drop substantially) :


Do you have a 120V/15amp to 50 amp plug adapter (may have to go from 50a to 30a and then to 15a)? If so, try to run your AC or other bad appliances from that setup to another receptacle in your garage. If it works, then your 50 amp outlet is probably bad at the house. If it still won't run, then you can probably start at step 3 below.



1. Start at your home breaker box where your 50 amp outlet starts. Good connections on the neutral and the 2 hot wires into your breakers? The ground wire (green usually) should be isolated from the neutral buss.


2. Is your home outlet good? Look inside the outlet box. Wires tight? Contacts good?


3. Is your main cord OK (This would have a high probability of failure IMO)? Check for voltage at the other end or use a light. Not sure of your color code; but, should be red/black/white/green. Should have 120V from black to white and 120V from red to white. Check your receptacle on the van (if you have one): Contacts good? Check wiring at the back of the receptacle: Tight (if attached by screws)? Wires in good shape? Not hard, brittle or burnt looking?


4. Check wiring into van breaker box: Tight? Breaker box looks OK inside? Wires not hard or brittle? A 50 amp 125 service may have 2 main breakers.


Begin your search on a day when you have plenty of time and patience. Be methodical, and do not assume anything. You checked the obvious, time to dig a little deeper. Use your sight and smell as well. You're looking for hard, brittle, burned, discolored items. Keep your unit unplugged while you have fingers on the hot stuff. Your roof vent probably runs on 12VDC, so it's not a good indicator of AC presence.


Can't help on the key fob issue. Probably not connected with your ac problems now. Get your AC issues fixed first. Owning a sprinter, I am familiar with $$$$$. Good luck.

[synergy]

Hey Jim, Thanks for the response.

Originally Posted by Hatteras Jim

You said that your van is on a 50 amp service. I thought most vans were 30 amps back then. I am detailing the steps for a 50 amp service as you stated. 30 amp plug has 3 contacts (one round and 2 flat) sort of in a triangular pattern. A 50 amp plug will have 4 contacts (one round and 3 flat).

I had my residential electrician add a 50amp outlets, along side of my 30 amp ones, one on each side of the house, so no matter what side I parked I would have a place to connect and had the option of both outlets so when I have visitors they too would have a place to hook up. My Navion is 30 amp, but like at RV parks, where there are two outlets, 50 & 30, one can choose. I’ve had this set up for about three years and never had an issue prior to this. I will check all connections, again.

It does sound like something bizarre happened. Power surge, ground lightning strike, gremlins? You are in Fl aren't you?



If you do not have technical experience with electricity; you may want to enlist someone that does. RV wiring (especially on the 50 amp side) is slightly different from house wiring. You can get killed. Safety message over, proceed at your own risk. It sounds like you have checked the obvious so IMO you are looking at a wiring or contact issue. Breakers are checked by using a voltmeter (if you don't have one, now would be a good time to buy one. Be sure it will read AC and DC). One lead to the neutral buss and the other to the breaker screw: Should read 120V.

No, I’m not that naturally experienced with electrical tracing of problems, like some people who can just figure it out. I try, and usually figure it out over time, but I get frustrated because it takes me so much longer and I have to repeat steps over and over to make sure I’m not making mistakes. Then, I’m not absolutely certain if I’ve actually figure the issue out, unless its obvious, and what ever it is I did actually fixes the problem. I work at it.


I think you need to start at the beginning and do not assume anything (like your 50 amp outlet is OK or your power cord is OK). Even if you read 120V on both legs with a voltmeter, under load with bad wiring or corroded connector it could drop substantially) :


Do you have a 120V/15amp to 50 amp plug adapter (may have to go from 50a to 30a and then to 15a)? If so, try to run your AC or other bad appliances from that setup to another receptacle in your garage. If it works, then your 50 amp outlet is probably bad at the house. If it still won't run, then you can probably start at step 3 below.



1. Start at your home breaker box where your 50 amp outlet starts. Good connections on the neutral and the 2 hot wires into your breakers? The ground wire (green usually) should be isolated from the neutral buss.


2. Is your home outlet good? Look inside the outlet box. Wires tight? Contacts good?


3. Is your main cord OK (This would have a high probability of failure IMO)? Check for voltage at the other end or use a light. Not sure of your color code; but, should be red/black/white/green. Should have 120V from black to white and 120V from red to white. Check your receptacle on the van (if you have one): Contacts good? Check wiring at the back of the receptacle: Tight (if attached by screws)? Wires in good shape? Not hard, brittle or burnt looking?


4. Check wiring into van breaker box: Tight? Breaker box looks OK inside? Wires not hard or brittle? A 50 amp 125 service may have 2 main breakers.


Begin your search on a day when you have plenty of time and patience. Be methodical, and do not assume anything. You checked the obvious, time to dig a little deeper. Use your sight and smell as well. You're looking for hard, brittle, burned, discolored items. Keep your unit unplugged while you have fingers on the hot stuff. Your roof vent probably runs on 12VDC, so it's not a good indicator of AC presence.


Can't help on the key fob issue. Probably not connected with your ac problems now. Get your AC issues fixed first. Owning a sprinter, I am familiar with $$$$$. Good luck.

Great advise! I will retrace my steps and go step by step, again and see if I can figure this out. It’s hot out, muggy, so yes, I’ll do it on a cooler day, when I know there won't be any other distractions. Thanks very much for the advise!

[Hatteras Jim]

One other thing. If you also have a generator on board, is there a transfer switch between shore power and generator power? Problem could be in the transfer switch if you have one. The suggestion to try and run it from the genny was a good one. If it works, then the point of transfer is the issue. If it doesn't, it does not completely clear the transfer point. Could be bad on the van side.


Think of yourself as a modern day Sherlock Holmes searching for clues.


If I was closer, I'd come down and help you. I'm 69 and always looking for fun projects. Good luck.

[Hatteras Jim]

Since your van is actually 30 amps, you will only have 3 conductors. Usually Black or red, white and green. The round pin should be green and ground. The two flat blades are your conductors - one hot (usually black or red) and one to the neutral side (usually white). Should have 120V between the two flat blades.

[synergy]

Originally Posted by Hatteras Jim

One other thing. If you also have a generator on board, is there a transfer switch between shore power and generator power? Problem could be in the transfer switch if you have one. The suggestion to try and run it from the genny was a good one. If it works, then the point of transfer is the issue. If it doesn't, it does not completely clear the transfer point. Could be bad on the van side.


Think of yourself as a modern day Sherlock Holmes searching for clues.


If I was closer, I'd come down and help you. I'm 69 and always looking for fun projects. Good luck.

Thanks for the offer, and advise. Unfortunately, I’ve run out of time, gotta head out of town, and without the RV. My son’s going to look at it when he can, see if he can figure it out. If not, I guess when I get back, it’s off to an RV repair shop, somewhere.

I do apprecaiet your advise; I’ve discussed things with my son, so he can implement the strategy of the search. Maybe, hopefully, he will better know what to do, or at least find the issue(s) so I can get them fixed.

[Hatteras Jim]

Sometimes a fresh set of eyes will catch something that you repeatedly missed.