Generator recommendations????

[booster]

A properly vented compressor frig should be able to cool in 110*F ambient without the frig temp climbing more than a couple of degrees tops.


Our Isotherm, which is externally vented and ducted to make it very good venting has kept our food at 38* in 100+ temps with the frig side where the vents are in the sun. It was also on the lowest compressor speed so had more capacity available if we needed it.



If you have a compressor frig and you have trouble in hot conditions, you probably have an install/venting issue unrelated to frig type.

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by booster

A properly vented compressor frig should be able to cool in 110*F ambient without the frig temp climbing more than a couple of degrees tops.

Our Isotherm, which is externally vented and ducted to make it very good venting has kept our food at 38* in 100+ temps with the frig side where the vents are in the sun. It was also on the lowest compressor speed so had more capacity available if we needed it.

If you have a compressor frig and you have trouble in hot conditions, you probably have an install/venting issue unrelated to frig type.

I agree this likely applies in my particular case. As with ours, it may also be the situation in a wide variety of pre-built camper vans. So, take a look at your own van and see how well that airflow is configured.

If you're building a van yourself or are having it built for you, then you have a decent chance ensuring your fridge is installed with plentiful ventilation over the rear cooling fins. We didn't have that option because it never occurred to us (though it should have) that an RV manufacturer like Airstream would do something so foolish. Trust me, they do.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

I agree this likely applies in my particular case. As with ours, it may also be the situation in a wide variety of pre-built camper vans. So, take a look at your own van and see how well that airflow is configured.

If you're building a van yourself or are having it built for you, then you have a decent chance ensuring your fridge is installed with plentiful ventilation over the rear cooling fins. We didn't have that option because it never occurred to us (though it should have) that an RV manufacturer like Airstream would do something so foolish. Trust me, they do.

Our van came with a gas frig so venting was there but not applicable to the new frig requirements, even though they met the install specs easily. This was a decade ago and was so early in the compressor frig revolution that there was almost no information out there on frigs that wouldn't cool. It took several months of experimenting to get it right, with ducted air to the compressor and condenser and isolated intake and exhaust areas.


There are really few, if any, OEM van builders that do a good job of venting compressor frigs. We hear about it on the forum all the time.

[otr]

just wondering why you could not use the Honda to keep the battery topped up while running the AC? With the battery as a reservoir and running the 2k generator it would likely work. What is the draw of the AC?

[Stinky]

Probably my plan won't be useful to you but: I got a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine and used it to turn an alternator. Given that I already have an inverter I didn't see the point in buying the usual kind of generator. So I use my generator to charge my lithiums. BTW I run the engine on propane. Propane doesn't go bad like gas. Doesn't gum up the carburettor. (Carb's gone for scrap) And the thing will run for 2 days unattended on a 20lb tank.

[VanMoon]

I have a Champion 3500 watt inverter generator from Cabela’s does a fantastic job. Installed in an aluminum storage box mounted on a stowaway (swing away) hitch on my 2019 ProMaster.

[ableami]

Just out of curiosity, how much do you think that roof AC is going to lower your interior temperature? My expectation is that it will lower the temp about 10 degrees and that is with all the windows and doors sealed shut. If you open a door or window you will have to start all over.
Besides nise, you are going to pay a significant price in terms of mpg.

[Nick&Linda]

In regards to a portable generator, I have a Champion 2500 peak inverter portable generator. It will run about 11 hours on a tank of gas. It powers my 2000 PleasureWay A/C with no problem. It is quite, and easy to carry onto or off the rear tray.

I went with the 2500 watt model rather than a 2000 watt unit because of the extra 500 watts.

The Harbor Freight 2000 watt generator is a good option. Watch the customer video that compares it to the Honda generator. It is an apple to apple comparison. And the Harbor Freight generator beats, or at most matches all specs of the HF generator. And the price difference is key. Why spend all that money on a Honda when an HF generator does the same. And for peace-of-mind, buy the HF extended warranty. I have a much bigger HF generator that I use here in Florida for when we have power outages. It is about 4 years old, and still runs great.

My other thought is the sound box on back of your van. I think about exhaust fumes. I always place my generator about 20 feet or so away from the van for safety.

Just food for thought.

[Rlum]

Originally Posted by RVclassB4me

I have a question about portable generators.

I'm taking delivery of a new Roadtrek SS Agile. It does have solar panels PLUS Lithium battery banks PLUS underhood engine generator. But later on next summer if I go boondocking the AC will only run around 3 hours (if that) on a set of fully charged lithium ion batteries. Hence I'm looking to add an external portable generator. I asked about an Onan built in generator and it was a no go due to it just cost way too much and they are saying they don't even they will get any in. I guess I could wait it out until next summer, but.......

I've narrowed down to two models I found at Costco. I would like to get them from Costco due to its excellent customer service and return policies.

Option #1:. Firman 3650W Running / 4550W Peak Gasoline Powered Generator with Remote Start
Item 1053129 Model P03608.
$499 + $19 s/h

Option #2: Firman 2900W Running / 3200W Peak Electric Start Dual Fuel Powered Inverter Generator - Gas and LP
Item 2202942 Model WH02942
CURRENTLY ON SALE $699 after $200 online rebate AND FREE SHIPPING.


I like option#1 due to its remote start / stop feature. But it's louder and bigger (more wattage. But my class B RV needs only around 2900 watts).

I like option #2 due to its smaller size, dual fuel option, INVERTER TYPE, and quieter. I DISLIKE IT BC NO REMOTE START!!!! And the fuel tank is way smaller therefore more refueling. It will not run for at least 12 hours without refueling (except if connected to propane, then can have longer run times. Higher cost of propane though.)

Question:. Somewhere I read that to be safe I will need to make sure the electric plug going to the RV is UNPLUGGED from the generator before I start the generator and to UNPLUG it from the generator BEFORE shutting the generator down. Of I'm going to go have to do that, might as well just manually hit the start button on the generator. No use for so called remote start!!

I intend to get a SMART power surge like this one:
Hughes Autoformers PWD30-EPO, 30 Amp Spike Power Watchdog, Shut Off

What do you all think? Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance

I am selling a Onan 2.8Kw gas generator. Coming off of my 2016 PW Lexor TS. Well cared for. Starts immediately. Last camping trip. Ran for 6 hour in 3 days with SeaFoam to prevent carburetor issues. Total hours is 126.

Asking $1,000.00
Must pick up in Los Angeles. Scheduled to be removed from my van in a couple days.

[rakurtz60107]

You want an inverter generator. The inverter generator puts out pure sine wave current that is safe for the electronics in your coach. Use the generator to keep the batteries charged and run the ac from your batteries.