Flexible Solar Panel mounting - Magnets?

[booster]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

Agree, the air gap is critical to keep efficiency high and keep roof cool during sunny days.

I made these solar panel mounts 10 years ago and stop thinking about it except occasional cleaning. Hein from the Sprinter Forum sells a production version of theses. https://photos.app.goo.gl/NaDXquJwAigYuTBw1

I assume the crossbars support the flat stock underneath the panels to support them, but are they bolted there also to hold them down? If so, how do you assemble this on the van? Or does it go up in one piece?

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by booster

I assume the crossbars support the flat stock underneath the panels to support them, but are they bolted there also to hold them down? If so, how do you assemble this on the van? Or does it go up in one piece?

All parts were assembled in situ.
1. Roof rail towers, crossbars and short flat parts under crossbars
2. Long flat parts attached to factory holes in solar panels
3. Panels assemblies to crossbars
4. Aligned an tighten.

Next time I would likely simplified this design, but I have seen a few folks copied it verbatim without anodized finish. Most of my aluminum made components I send for anodizing.

[booster]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

All parts were assembled in situ.
1. Roof rail towers, crossbars and short flat parts under crossbars
2. Long flat parts attached to factory holes in solar panels
3. Panels assemblies to crossbars
4. Aligned an tighten.

Next time I would likely simplified this design, but I have seen a few folks copied it verbatim without anodized finish. Most of my aluminum made components I send for anodizing.

That certainly sounds like the logical way to assemble it, but it just doesn't look like there is room to reach under to bolt the panels to flat pieces, but maybe the pix are a bit deceiving.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by booster

That certainly sounds like the logical way to assemble it, but it just doesn't look like there is room to reach under to bolt the panels to flat pieces, but maybe the pix are a bit deceiving.

Cearance to the roof is about 1". It was large enough to place a nut from below and with full access from the top to turn the screw the job was reasonably easy even with my large hands.

[booster]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

Cearance to the roof is about 1". It was large enough to place a nut from below and with full access from the top to turn the screw the job was reasonably easy even with my large hands.

I must be missing the point, it appears. I see the flat bars under the panels for and aft and it appears that the panels are bolted to those bars. How do you have full access from the top with the panel there above the bar? It looks like the upper side of the bolts between the panel flange and flat bar would be impossible to get to.


Or do the long side flanges turn out from the panel so you can get them in the gap to the crossbar? The end flanges look to turn in, and our panels all the flanges turn in under the panel.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by booster

I must be missing the point, it appears. I see the flat bars under the panels for and aft and it appears that the panels are bolted to those bars. How do you have full access from the top with the panel there above the bar? It looks like the upper side of the bolts between the panel flange and flat bar would be impossible to get to.

Or do the long side flanges turn out from the panel so you can get them in the gap to the crossbar? The end flanges look to turn in, and our panels all the flanges turn in under the panel.

The long flat bars are pre-attached and nuts tighten to solar panels before final assembly. Short flat bars are attached to the bottom of the 80/20 bars with t-nuts.

There is sufficient clearance between the panel and the crossbar to access hex screws, see the picture. Adding a nut with a finger under the short bar and threaded the hex screw was most difficult.

This writing is from my 10 years old brain folder, but I am pretty sure I got it right.

[phantomjock]

As I've been reading this, I kept thinking this was a good place to opt for using 8020 gear. Lucky guess, I guess.

Cheers - Jim

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by phantomjock

As I've been reading this, I kept thinking this was a good place to opt for using 8020 gear. Lucky guess, I guess.

Cheers - Jim

A few folks on the Sprinter forum use 80/20 for solar panel mounting. Hein from DIY Van based on my mounting system design designed aluminum sheet metal brackets, the same concept but les expensive, for 80/20 which he sells today.

All 80/20 aluminum parts are anodized and are great for outdoor use. https://diyvan.com/collections/solar...ries-crossbars

[ceoshank88]

I actually used neodymium magnets to mount a flexible solar panel on my setup, similar to what you're describing. It's a fantastic way to avoid drilling holes or using adhesives, plus the rubber coating and foam weatherstripping really help protect the vehicle's paint and ensure there's enough airflow beneath the panel.

The 26lbs force per magnet was enough in my case, but I did add a few extra just for that added security, especially when driving at higher speeds or in windy conditions. It's definitely a solid method, in my experience.

If you're diving deeper into solar energy projects or looking for creative mounting solutions, I found some useful insights at https://solargenerators.to. They cover a broad range of topics on solar power that might provide additional support or ideas for your solar panel endeavor.

[Davydd]

I had a mechanically attached flexible solar panel that blew off in a high wind. I don't believe a magnet could have held a solar panel in that incidence. Sooner or later it will happen.