FitRV's lithium/alternator/inverter setup

[Davydd]

If you had a diesel there would be more incentive to get rid of propane all together as there are hot water and heating systems available to tap diesel. That would leave only cooking to resolve and the induction cooktop is proving a winner in that regard. Getting rid of propane eliminates a lot of weight, space and complexity. Elimination of weight and space could allow for more water and waste tank capacities or more batteries.

[mojoman]

My Webasto gasoline heater is much more efficient and quieter and much smaller than a propane furnace. The instant hotwater heater, 750watts gives me hot water in less than 3 minutes and is half the size of a shoe box. Eliminating a shower in my build saved me allot of space and waste tank size. I only fitted a 10 gallon waste tank and have a second one to install if it turned out too small. After a three week trip, the 10 gallon was large enough, we used an average of 2 gallons of water a day for washing and cooking.

[SiennaGuy]

Originally Posted by mojoman

I also installed a inverter microwave which also cooks faster or can be adjusted to lower power consumption rather than the conventional ones that cycle on and off at high power.

I'm curious about this? Which brand and model microwave do you have?

[mojoman]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are lighter than a standard microwave too.
When I need to replace my house one, I'm going to find another inverter type.

[wincrasher]

As I reported, I've seen there setup first hand. Remember that they live in Utah and do not experience humid conditions very often. I think the air conditioning on batteries was more of an experiment than anything. It was handy at GNR as the conditions were awful as far as the humidity went. It worked well and he got the time expected out of it.

They are big winter campers and their rig with the induction cooktop would help stretch their propane for the Truma. The Truma works so well for heat and water heating that I doubt they will put any effort into changing to something else.

I find it interesting the comment of the difference in the alternator setup. I plan to seek out a Zion at Hershey next month and see how it compares. James is still tinkering with the alternator and I expect a few changes. I don't think I'll ever adapt one in my van as I don't like that it sits so low near the ground.

[Davydd]

I've posted this before here I think. I prefer the under hood second alternator for many reasons which I think will eventually supplant the idea of the Onan generators in Class Bs especially when the desire or expectations of larger battery banks and boondocking possibilities grow.

1. Saves weight
2. Frees up space under the van for other uses like larger water and waste tanks
3. Frees the requirement of propane in most diesel powered vans
4. Eliminates a second combustible engine in a van that requires maintenance
5. More reliable
6. Takes away undesigned load from the engine alternator.
7. An engine alternator cannot match a second alternator's output.
8. Charges faster than an Onan or engine alternator
9. Most likely necessary for high amp hour battery assemblies
10. Enhances boondocking situations, IMO in being quieter and less apparent.
11. Underhood second alternators should cost less than Onans.

[booster]

You telling us that the monster alternator you just had put in was cheaper than an Onan? That would be the alternator and regulator, and the mounting and extra hardware and wiring, I assume.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by booster

You telling us that the monster alternator you just had put in was cheaper than an Onan? That would be the alternator and regulator, and the mounting and extra hardware and wiring, I assume.

On the 210 RT quotes the folowing options:

Onan generator: $4693

280 Amp Underhood generator plus Balmar regulator plus 2 more 6V AGMs plus 2500W inverter: $3913

[Davydd]

I don't know but yes maybe if you add all the cost associated with an Onan using propane. What I do know is that Nations alternator everyone is using is cheaper than an Onan generator on a straight trade basis regardless of how Roadtrek prices them out. But after having both, I am much happier with the performance of the Delco over Nations. It is significant and worth the extra cost.

As I said I posted most of that before assuming a Nations alternator and the cost is definitely less. The whole point is Class Bs will evolve in that direction.

[wincrasher]

Roadtrek is definitely pricing their Onan's to discourage that option. Looks to me that they are pricing in expected warranty claims. But also hurting them is the currency difference as this would be a US sourced part.

[mojoman]

Unless you have low performing insulation, the AC shouldn't run continuous for 3 hours. With external window shades and insulated panels on the inside, I averaged less than 50% run time in high heat desert conditions on asphalt. I have a white van that helps and mostly solar panels with a air gap covering most of the roof.

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by mojoman

Unless you have low performing insulation, the AC shouldn't run continuous for 3 hours. With external window shades and insulated panels on the inside, I averaged less than 50% run time in high heat desert conditions on asphalt. I have a white van that helps and mostly solar panels with a air gap covering most of the roof.

When James said his requirement is for 3 hrs of aircon,
I don't think anybody would interpret that as 3 hours of continuous machine run .

[thefitrv]

Originally Posted by wincrasher

I plan to seek out a Zion at Hershey next month and see how it compares. James is still tinkering with the alternator and I expect a few changes. I don't think I'll ever adapt one in my van as I don't like that it sits so low near the ground.

I'm not sure if we'll make it to Hershey or not this year. If anyone does get there and sees a Roadtrek with the second alternator, we'd certainly appreciate a few pictures of what they've done to protect it. Bull bar. Skid plates. Whatever they're doing (if anything).

And by the way, no, we don't have any vampires on board!

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by thefitrv

::

And by the way, no, we don't have any vampires on board!

Hi James.

Thanks for all the useful info on your web.

Love your Youtube vids.

[thefitrv]

Happy to help!

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Davydd

Advanced RV "stacks" as you put it. You can simultaneously charge engine idling, shore power and solar. When I tested with my old Nations 270 alternator with shore power and was charging well over 300 amps. I have the 4/0 wiring from alternator to battery and battery to inverter to manage those high amps. I may test soon with my new Delco 320 alternator. It charges at a rate of over 230 amps at high idle auto start. So I suspect I could get over 350 amps charging in an optimal setup on a sunny day. The 4/0 wire will still handle that. The charts say 380 amps for 4/0 chassis wiring. This would be for testing purposes only. There would be no practical reason to need to do so.

Doesn't stacking charging sources require synchronizing disparate charging voltages to a common applied voltage? How is that accomplished with your system?

[mojoman]

This brush guard bottom mounts hangs low enough to guard the alternator if you added a piece to the lower mounts.
IMG_2725_zpss0pz3kvg.jpg Photo by mcgiotes | Photobucket

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Doesn't stacking charging sources require synchronizing disparate charging voltages to a common applied voltage? How is that accomplished with your system?

I am an owner not a designer or electrical expert. They provide the information to observe in some detail. How they do it, I couldn't tell you, but they do it. I have to assume everyone allows simultaneous solar input with either shore power or alternator charging. If not, then I think solar would be worthless in a practical manner.

[wincrasher]

Originally Posted by thefitrv

I'm not sure if we'll make it to Hershey or not this year. If anyone does get there and sees a Roadtrek with the second alternator, we'd certainly appreciate a few pictures of what they've done to protect it. Bull bar. Skid plates. Whatever they're doing (if anything).

And by the way, no, we don't have any vampires on board!

Well, if I go undetected by JH, I'll be sure to snap some pics, and maybe a bit of video. If he chases me off, I have a backup plan that is very sneaky.

[booster]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Doesn't stacking charging sources require synchronizing disparate charging voltages to a common applied voltage? How is that accomplished with your system?

As long as the batteries and/or loads are drawing enough power to keep the power sources from reaching their absorption settings, all of them will be putting out what ever they can as they try to get to those settings.

Once the batteries and/or loads start requiring less power, the voltage will start to climb until the lowest setpoint is reached on one or more of the sources. Soon after that, those sources will start to drop output to try to maintain the voltage from going higher. By this point, however, you don't care if they quit contributing because you are charging at all the batteries will take, and running everything you want without their contribution.

Bottom line is that matching voltages is not a big deal to get all sources to charge at max. If you are trying to get voltage control on your charging, then you need be aware of how you set things so the best controlled source is in control of the voltage once the setpoints are reached.