Electricity

[lynnnriver]

I have researched this online but am still confused. What is the simplest way to have abundant electricty in a cargo van that I will be converting myself to a camper? Will need it for heat, possible air conditioning, computer, ect..?

Thanks!!!

Lynn

[markopolo]

Are you going to be plugged in most of the time or camping without hookups?

If you are going to be plugged in then you can wire it up like you'd do a house or a garage. You'd need a water proof inlet, a small electrical panel, wire and outlets.

If you are not going to be plugged in the air conditioning will have to be run off of a generator. Heat can be from propane or electric from a generator.

Other things like a computer can be run through an inverter running off batteries.

[Robert1776]

There are three ways to have electricity in a conversion van/camper -

1. a 30 amp circuit that plugs into an exterior power outlet - at a campground or with a 20 amp converter for house current
2. A generator that you build into the van (or an external generator that you will plug #1 into.
3. Coach batteries or battery that with an inverter and circuitry that will recharge the batteries when you drive that will provide 12 volt power and 120 volt power through your inverter. It takes about 12 hours of driving to recharge the batteries. These are not regular car batteries but 12v or 6v deep cycle batteries made for this purpose. The batteries and inverter have limited amp hours to provide you with 120v and will not run an A/C or microwave.

Most Class B's have a combination of 1 and 3. Many also add in 2.

Oh yes, some also use Solar panels on the roof with batteries.

[lynnnriver]

Thank you so much for your replies. I have seen, for instance, portable Honda generators. How do these work? Do they have to be recharged? Forgive me, I am mechanically and electrically impaired. Or, you just turn it on and it powers your stuff? Do you have to put gasoline in them? Is that safe? They seem pretty expensive, so I would think they would work without too much trouble.

[Mike]

Generators usually have a built in inverter function so they produce alternating current, like wall outlet current
in a house, up to the maximum wattage that the generator is designed to produce. Usually the name suggests
the maximum output in watts. Yes, you put gas in them. Yes, they are expensive, and the more pricey ones even
have remote start capability, which is a nice feature. If it's outside (as almost all generators are, whether built
into the van somehow, or just attached (see more at easily stolen) to the van somehow, it's nice to not have to
exit the van, to get the power maker running. Most people prefer built in, but it's not always easily do-able without
modifying existing van features, like fuel tanks, and suspension parts, as most RV manufacturers add them below
the van usually towards the rear. If you're DIYing a class B RV, you might have options based on where it fits into
your master van plan layout. You might find a way to integrate it somewhere without having to move other stuff
out of the way.
As others have said, it's usually part of a 3 way electrical system which usually includes both 12V DC and 120V AC
power sources combined to work separately, but together to provide multiple power options. Not all stuff runs well
on DC (batteries) and not all other stuff runs well on 120V AC, so it gives more flexibility.
Normally, most class B RVs will have coach batteries, for straight 12V DC power, and a gas or propane generator
and a 30 amp shore power plug to provide straight AC power. Often the use of the generator and shore power
recharges the coach batteries, while providing AC power through a converter/charger system which redirects some
AC power to charge the DC batteries.
The engine alternator can also charge the DC batteries while running, via a thing called an isolator/separator which
connects the coach batteries to the same charging system as the engine battery, for as long as the engine is running,
and then keeps the coach batteries separate from the engine battery while you're camping, so you can always start the engine, if you inadvertently drain the coach batteries.
Confused yet?
Me too.
Here's another good site......
http://www.rvstuff.ca/phredex.html
It's got some links to stuff by a guy named Phred Tinseth (the phrannie.org domain and name has expired?)
who has written things called "poop sheets" (this is "the poop" on whatever) and some folks have preserved
them on the internet. You can get lots of great info from anything he's written, if you can find it. Google is
your friend.
Good luck.

[lynnnriver]

Thanks! You're awesome!

Lynn

[Mike]

You're welcome. Your project is formidable, and complex, and should probably take some time to do, if you're going
to do it right.
You might want to weigh the cost savings of a DIY class B RV conversion project, versus the one time (you hope)
cost of buying one already converted. Most of the folks on here bought their class B already converted, but then
many of us have added stuff and changed stuff to suit our longer term needs and likes.
It's up to you how you do this, but remember, a DIY project will probably spawn many questions, and it's not always
that easy to get specific info and answers on a forum like this one (even though we all try to help) that will really help
you solve the problems and issues as they occur. You might want to see what physical resources exist near where
you'll be doing your conversion, before you begin, with special attention to the major RV on board systems that you
plan to install. Usually that includes electrical, water (plumbing), and propane. Beds, and other creature comfort
items can wait until you get the functional systems in place.

If it were me, I'd buy a "built" class B, and then fix it up, and modify it to suit my needs.