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06-19-2013, 03:58 PM
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#21
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Silver Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 65
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Re: Do we need a generator?
Our inverter is located in the same location as the RV converter. An extension cord, with a strip bar of 3 plugs ins, was plugged into the inverter, and the cord is hidden behind the wall and the other end is in a cabinet.
__________________
Jim & Darlene, & Pickles our Teddy Bear
2013 RT Adventurous...aka Roada
Wisconsin Dells WI...Water park capital of the world[/color]
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05-28-2016, 01:55 PM
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#22
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New Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Md
Posts: 5
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I just picked up a Generac iq2000. 2000w starting 1600w running output. I don't know the draw of the roof top AC on my 1990 Ford E250 Dearborn conversion, but thought the 2k generator would be enough. The AC has a 20amp fuse so * 110v the wiring has a max of 2200w and I assumed it wasn't drawing the max.
When the I turn on the AC (nothing else on) the generator goes into overload and cuts the power. Before I return the generator I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything stupid since I'm new to the camper and generators.
Thanks for reading.
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05-28-2016, 02:33 PM
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#23
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpearsall
I just picked up a Generac iq2000. 2000w starting 1600w running output. I don't know the draw of the roof top AC on my 1990 Ford E250 Dearborn conversion, but thought the 2k generator would be enough. The AC has a 20amp fuse so * 110v the wiring has a max of 2200w and I assumed it wasn't drawing the max.
When the I turn on the AC (nothing else on) the generator goes into overload and cuts the power. Before I return the generator I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything stupid since I'm new to the camper and generators.
Thanks for reading.
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A couple of ideas:
- Make sure your generator isn't in Econo mode.
- Let it warm up a few minutes before using it
- Even if you don't turn on other appliances, the converter/battery charge might be drawing AC, so turn that off too
- If your A/C hasn't been run for a while, try using it on shore power first.
William
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05-28-2016, 02:34 PM
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#24
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 677
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Install a "hard start capacitor" in the AC unit.
When an AC unit initially starts up, there is a very large current draw which your generator cannot handle. The capacitor stores energy and uses this to assist in the start up of the compressor.
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05-28-2016, 02:40 PM
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#25
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New Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Md
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJones
A couple of ideas:
- Make sure your generator isn't in Econo mode.
- Let it warm up a few minutes before using it
- Even if you don't turn on other appliances, the converter/battery charge might be drawing AC, so turn that off too
- If your A/C hasn't been run for a while, try using it on shore power first.
William
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Thanks for the quick reply. I'm glad my troubleshooting was on the right path. I was in Turbo mode, tried it again after it was warned up and flipped the breakers on everything but the AC with no joy. It can run the microwave, heater, roof top fan or heat , but as soon as the AC compressor kicks in the generator cuts out.
The only thing I can't try now is running the AC on shore power as this is the first run of the season.
Thanks again!
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05-28-2016, 03:05 PM
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#26
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New Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Md
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruceper
Install a "hard start capacitor" in the AC unit.
When an AC unit initially starts up, there is a very large current draw which your generator cannot handle. The capacitor stores energy and uses this to assist in the start up of the compressor.
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Hmm, will definitely look into that. Thanks!
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05-28-2016, 09:27 PM
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#27
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,660
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Genny ratings are at sea level- the manual ( online) will give you a table which shows output at higher elevations.
mike
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05-28-2016, 11:21 PM
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#28
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New Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Md
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar
Genny ratings are at sea level- the manual ( online) will give you a table which shows output at higher elevations.
mike
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I'm outside of Baltimore so altitude shouldn't be an issue. I ordered a hard start capacitor, hopefully it will cover the startup spike.
Thanks for the reply!
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05-29-2016, 07:41 PM
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#29
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 554
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It all comes down to the $ for the convenience to push a button and run your stuff. I didn't run my last generator that much in a class A but when I did it was worth it.
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09-16-2016, 05:22 PM
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#30
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Northern VA, USA
Posts: 195
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i saw on a youtube video where one guy got an adapter for his yamaha generator such that it would draw directly from the gas tank like the Onans do. With this setup, i guess all that's missing is the remote start.
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09-16-2016, 05:24 PM
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#31
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWonder
i saw on a youtube video where one guy got an adapter for his yamaha generator such that it would draw directly from the gas tank like the Onans do. With this setup, i guess all that's missing is the remote start.
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And a place to store and haul it, plus a big chain to keep it from wandering off
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09-16-2016, 06:12 PM
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#32
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 554
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The generator runs about $2300 on line plus panel switch you can get on ebay. So around $2600 for wire, exhaust etc.... Not too hard to install. I debated weather to get a portable but convenience prevailed. Pushing a button on the wall beats storing it, lugging it out, connecting it, worrying about fuel level and filling it, storing gas, someone stealing it etc.... Imagine if you had to go through all that with a TV or stereo, you would probably not use them as much.
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09-16-2016, 06:44 PM
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#33
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Northern VA, USA
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster
And a place to store and haul it, plus a big chain to keep it from wandering off
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If you remove the Onan, that leaves a LOT of room. Sure you don't have all the bells and whistles like the low gas tank and low oil safeguards but one thing no one mentions is these little Honda and Yamaha generators are quieter than the Onans. Right now I am dealing with my Onan surging at idle likely due to its limited usage during the past 12 years (25 hours total!). If I had to replace it, I would be hard pressed to resist going with the little 2kw Honda.
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09-16-2016, 06:57 PM
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#34
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWonder
If you remove the Onan, that leaves a LOT of room. Sure you don't have all the bells and whistles like the low gas tank and low oil safeguards but one thing no one mentions is these little Honda and Yamaha generators are quieter than the Onans. Right now I am dealing with my Onan surging at idle likely due to its limited usage during the past 12 years (25 hours total!). If I had to replace it, I would be hard pressed to resist going with the little 2kw Honda.
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I don't think anyone has been successful in storing one of the portables in the generator spot, at least that I have heard. The area is not as big as you might think, especially in height. We put 4 GC2 6 volt batteries where our Onan was in our 07 C190P Roadtrek on a Chevy.
Get out the Seafoam and use the 2 oz per gallon rate, run the Onan 30 minutes, let it sit overnight, run 30 minutes, let sit overnight, etc, etc. It much better at cleaning up a plugged carb than running continuously. 1/2 load is good.
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09-16-2016, 08:48 PM
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#35
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Silver Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: California
Posts: 62
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Manwonder
I may be a minority on this one but if you want to consider a greener alternative then look into GoalZero Yeti 400 or larger solar generator. I got one recently because I hate the Onan noise outside & inside. I wanted the flexibility of using at my home (it powers my 40" TV and more about 6 hours) and also take it camping. It can recharge from solar, the lighter outlet while you drive or any AC outlet. And it's quiet.
I have yet to plug in the RT170 AC in replacement of shore power but I will try it next weekend - we'll see if it can run the lights, LEDTV & fridge - but probably not the AC or micro since it only does 600W surge. It can parallel up to another Yeti to get more amps/watts which may be enough for the micro - not sure about the AC. I only got the 20-watt portable solar panel but that can be upgraded to more or get a larger competing (less $$) 100-watt panels (the Yeti has a legacy plug for this) to charge up quicker. Here's a link for more info:
Goal Zero Yeti 400 Solar Generator | Power Packs | Goal Zero
__________________
Jim
2001 RoadTrek 170, Dodge 2500 5.2L V8
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09-16-2016, 08:59 PM
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#36
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 554
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A 33AH AGM battery and a 300 watt pure sine inverter. You can buy a 125AH AGM battery and a 1000W pure sine inverter for less $.
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09-16-2016, 09:08 PM
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#37
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Northern VA, USA
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster
I don't think anyone has been successful in storing one of the portables in the generator spot, at least that I have heard. The area is not as big as you might think, especially in height. We put 4 GC2 6 volt batteries where our Onan was in our 07 C190P Roadtrek on a Chevy.
Get out the Seafoam and use the 2 oz per gallon rate, run the Onan 30 minutes, let it sit overnight, run 30 minutes, let sit overnight, etc, etc. It much better at cleaning up a plugged carb than running continuously. 1/2 load is good.
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Come to think of it, I think it may have been one of those Onans that was mounted in a side compartment, not underneath.
As to the SeaFoam, I've dumped a case of Chevron Techron II plus a can of BG 44k into the gas tank and driven aggressively (as recommended by my mechanic) during the last couple of weeks in hopes of unclogging a fuel injector. But that's another story...
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09-16-2016, 09:17 PM
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#38
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojoman
A 33AH AGM battery and a 300 watt pure sine inverter. You can buy a 125AH AGM battery and a 1000W pure sine inverter for less $.
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And a 20 watt panel that will give maybe 6ah per day in very good sun, unless something uses the 1.6 amps before it gets to the battery. Parasitic in the non separator Chevy coach side is usually .5 amps or so going to the detectors. Anything running would be above and beyond that.
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09-19-2016, 09:13 PM
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#39
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Silver Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: California
Posts: 62
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Of course, the solar generator would need to be much larger to supplant the onan for the micro & ac. Not even sure if the way to connect it, if the solar gen stays portable, is thru the 30-amp shore power plug. But I still wanted the Yeti because of it's portability (I can actually carry this up and down the house n back to the RT), it's all inclusive AC, USB, 12-V outlets (no additional dongles), pure sine wave, it's digital monitoring screen...and IMHO looks better than most generators out there. I might even consider replacing the micro with a smaller 6-volt type that only requires 600watt (just fit my favorite cooking container). Or if I ever get my inflatable out, it might serve as the power to electric trolling motor?
Again, it does have some flexibility - one I'm considering like HQST 100-watt flex panel that reduces chargeup time to 8-16 hrs, or maybe parallel another Yeti to get more amps.
What I'm wondering though is if I parallel with another does it double the continuous rating of 300/600 surge.
__________________
Jim
2001 RoadTrek 170, Dodge 2500 5.2L V8
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09-20-2016, 01:57 AM
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#40
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Arizona, Tempe
Posts: 1,697
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Just an opinion but yes, nothing can match the chemical energy contained in gasoline and propane, even with the poor efficiency of a generator and a furnace. I put my efforts in keeping the generator running (Onan) and if it doesn't, I put my money there.
Harry 2003 C190P
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