Direct replacement for Onan 2800

[Gritty Eileen]

Originally Posted by Rocktopper

I have been trying to get a Onan MicroLite 2800 running in my 1994 Dodge Pleasureway. Tonight was the final attempt.

I had replaced the carburetor. I ended up with the generator ON FIRE!

I could have been killed and was lucky the whole van didn’t go up in flames.

I have no intention of going to the local RV shop. Don’t have any confidence that I won’t get ripped off.

I need to know if there is a replacement generator that can be installed in the Onan shell? I am retired and have limited funds.

I just bought a 1996 Chevy 210Popular. Grateful you weren't hurt. I'm reluctant to pursue generator [cost, noise, fumes, location] and am starting to pursue other options for power. From my readings it seems solar isn't a magic bullet and Lithium batteries have problems. There must be a solution that works without breaking the bank Thankfully my RV technician was honest in assessment of probem and possible solutions. [The two previous RV centers were dishonest]

[booster]

Originally Posted by Gritty Eileen

I just bought a 1996 Chevy 210Popular. Grateful you weren't hurt. I'm reluctant to pursue generator [cost, noise, fumes, location] and am starting to pursue other options for power. From my readings it seems solar isn't a magic bullet and Lithium batteries have problems. There must be a solution that works without breaking the bank Thankfully my RV technician was honest in assessment of probem and possible solutions. [The two previous RV centers were dishonest]

It all depends on what you need from your power. If you need to run air conditioning and are on a budget having a generator may be about the only option. If you just need power for a microwave run or other uses a bit more battery, some solar, and maybe a big alternator can cover it for many people.

[gerrym51]

Originally Posted by Gritty Eileen

I just bought a 1996 Chevy 210Popular. Grateful you weren't hurt. I'm reluctant to pursue generator [cost, noise, fumes, location] and am starting to pursue other options for power. From my readings it seems solar isn't a magic bullet and Lithium batteries have problems. There must be a solution that works without breaking the bank Thankfully my RV technician was honest in assessment of probem and possible solutions. [The two previous RV centers were dishonest]

there is not -sorry

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by Rocktopper

I have been trying to get a Onan MicroLite 2800 running in my 1994 Dodge Pleasureway. Tonight was the final attempt.

I had replaced the carburetor. I ended up with the generator ON FIRE!

I could have been killed and was lucky the whole van didn’t go up in flames.

I have no intention of going to the local RV shop. Don’t have any confidence that I won’t get ripped off.

I need to know if there is a replacement generator that can be installed in the Onan shell? I am retired and have limited funds.

Things have changed. Maybe the new Onan will work for you.
https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tor-10556.html

[CobraEarl]

My 1998 Pheonix 7.3 diesel Class B wasn't built with a generator. Ive always put a cargo carrier on it with a champion inverter generator that has remote start and stop. this whole setup can be bought for about $1000. And the generator can be used for other purposes.

We love our class B. We have put 80,000 miles on it since our July 2014 purchase. But someone stole our champion generator in August while in Reno NV. Just ordered another one last night Amazon has a killer price on a 4500/3500 champion with the remote start feature.

BTW, we also have a 2006 pleasureway excel ts that we have decided to sell. Its generator was declared dead and is missing also. But, I figure an INSTALLED 2800 Onan would be $5000, so FORGET THAT. I tried to figure out how to get a cheaper (and better) generator where the old one was. I could not find one.

[Floorman]

I realize this is a 3 year old post but here is s updated info regarding the replacement of the Onana KV In my case in a 02C190P . The model number of the new Onan QG2800i is HGLLA-8303A for the Ca emissions generator. It is bit smaller than the KV but Onan has a Retro fit bracket model number A0435935 to fit the KV bracket. The exhaust could utilize Onan 36" tailpipe A046F728 if the hitch bracket is out of the way. For my 02C190P it appears that the Remote Starter switch and cable is the same on the KV and the new model. It is much quieter than the KV , uses about .4 gallon of gas per hour at full load which is less that the .46 for the KV. It has fuel injection vs the troublesome carb. I'm beginning to think, it is a much better investment than spending $2000 to service the KV if you have the $4500 for the Genny and parts plus installation expense.

[Floorman]

Update to replacement of my KV Onan. I have removed the KV 2800 microlite from the 02C190P RT. I will use the KV Retro bracket (A0435995). I've played with the idea to move the existing KV brackets and the RT brackets that it attaches to inward 2 inches to the RT frame and buy the Onan HGLAA brackets, however the spacing between RT frame and indentations of the metal floor will restrict the bolts from the frame to the RT bracket. The existing 02C190P Remote harness is a 4-wire harness and the new 2800i needs 5 wires to be fully functional. The Onan harness (338-3489-2 and 30ffet long will need to be rerouted. I'll have to cut the remote end connector off to reroute the cable. The existing 4 wire runs up in a channel of the passenger side rear door jam to and across through the upholstered cavity under the upper passenger side cabinet above the bed. There are 4 screws inside the cabinet to bend it down but it looks like a difficult reroute vs going under the bed cabinets on the passenger side going behind and up the bath cabinet to the current Remote location. The existing generator side plug is the same plug and basic wiring setup as the new 5 wire harness plug with exception of the extra wire and metal connecter inside the plug. This new positive lead on the existing wiring is jumped at the remote end between the LED and the Hour meter connections. The new lead that is added in the new plug and harness goes directly to the hour meter. I guess I could run an extra wire, buy the five-wire plug but I prefer to run a whole new harness and not have any splices in the harness under the Truck where the road and weather can mess things up. Caution here. They sell a 10-foot harness you need about 18-20 feet. The part numbers are nearly the same with the shorter harness ending in -01. A older friend who used to be an Onan Tech said I could utilize the exiting 4 wire to get basic on off remote function but to have the full function of LED Diagnoses, Priming and zero hour meter at the Remote, I will need the five wire harness and new Remote Switch (300-5332). I think that newer RT's already have the Remote switch with the Prime and the LED Diagnosis but if you want the hour meter to start at zero with a new generator, you'll need either the new remote or a new Hobbs 82034 analog hour meter. The exhaust on the new 2800i is from the driver side rear of the Generator. Its possible to run less than 30 inches straight pipe to the current exhaust location. I'll need the A046F728 tailpipe kit. There is another remote connection possible for start on demand but I'll be happy with manual start and stop. Finding the generator at a reasonable expense, timeframe and all the parts is the current challenge as is the commitment to the generator system in this older RT. I'll update the progress. In the meantime, I now have access to the differential . I have purchased a Detroit TrueTrac limited slip (915A545) for my GM 14 bolt 10.5" 30 spline 4.10 rear end. Hoopers Rear Ends in the San Fernando Valley, Ca has been helpful in the identification of the rear end and will do the install. Good roads

[dicktill]

Originally Posted by Floorman

<snip>
In the meantime, I now have access to the differential . I have purchased a Detroit TrueTrac limited slip (915A545) for my GM 14 bolt 10.5" 30 spline 4.10 rear end. Hoopers Rear Ends in the San Fernando Valley, Ca has been helpful in the identification of the rear end and will do the install. Good roads

Please get back to us on how the TrueTrac works out for you (perhaps in a new thread?).

TIA, Dick

[Floorman]

I will follow up on the TrueTrac

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by Floorman

Update to replacement of my KV Onan. I have removed the KV 2800 microlite from the 02C190P RT. I will use the KV Retro bracket (A0435995).

Thank you. Info all of us with the upgrade in our future have been looking for. All the other posters that did the upgrade apparently paid to have it done and had no clue what it took.

I will probably elect to do without the new remote switch and primer/LED function. Let us know what it actually takes to reroute the remote wiring. It looks impossible to me. Thank you for the part numbers.

[booster]

Trutrac limited slips (yes they are not true lockers) are a very good product as long as you know what you are getting.



I have one in my 96 Buick Roadmaster wagon, which is my summer daily driver and we use it for long country day trips. No problems at at with Trutrac in how it is used in the Buick.


They are, however, much tighter at normal driving and lock up faster with less load than the much more common clutch type limited slip differentials most of us are used to.


The Buick is a big car at 18' long and 5K pounds so somewhat similar to the vans except it is a coil spring/trailing arm rear suspension. It has a 5.7 that stock is rated at 260 hp and 335 ft lbs torque and a 4L60E transmission with 3.23 rear gears on 17" wheels and stock rev/mile.


If I am on a very slippery surface, like snow, it has enough preload to step out even at very low load so it would likely be a handful in the winter as it would want to step out/spin on slippery curves, I think.


It is also very, very fast to lock tighter under load. On a normal right with only moderate acceleration from a stop, it will be chirping the inside tire due to being locked nearly solid. Not a big deal, but with more torque or weight you might start to get to the point of hurting parts like axle shafts.


I don't know if the van with all the rear weight would also be dragging the inside tire, or not, but it will certainly put more load on the parts than a conventional limited slip would. The van only has a bit more torque at 360 ft lbs, so it might not be able to chirp it, but it will try to make the van go straight instead of turning.


If a class b were going to be driven in slippery conditions, as they are for some users, I don't think I would want any limited slip axle and would go with an electric, manual, locker so it could be off unless needed for low speed traction.

[Floorman]

This has been a long time coming to finally drop the old KV with the eye to replace it with the new 2.8 HGLAA-8303A. A member of the Chevy RT FB group had advised that the existing harness and remote was plug and play so I was a bit surprised to only find a 4 wire harness. I failed to find and look closely at the Installation Instructions for both the KV spec F and the new 2.8 HGLAA. I also could have removed the existing Remote and counted wires. As it was I finally found the schematics and when I removed the existing Remote, I was better able to understand how it was wired and what that meant in function. I was puzzled to find what was needed to use the basic on off function until I ran into a retired Onan Tech who had no good words about the old KV but we had a good moment when he expressed thanks for all those paid hours spent fixing them. I have a few routes in mind to run the new harness so I'll post a progress report . I'm not without skills but I'm not someone like Booster who is an RT/automotive expert.

[Floorman]

I have had the GM OEM gov locks on 4 chevy PU's starting in '92. The first 3 were 2wd and I liked the ability to roll through a lot of slippery situations. I did have one that went bad at so my research, choice and limited knowledge had me choosing the Eaton Detroit true trac for the reliability and less maintenance than the OEM gov lock. So far I've been lucky with the upgrades on the RT and so far everything has been an improvement. Thank you again Booster for the further education on the rear end. I'll hope for an improved performance in the snow and sand and will update the group literally down the road . *

[booster]

Originally Posted by Floorman

I have had the GM OEM gov locks on 4 chevy PU's starting in '92. The first 3 were 2wd and I liked the ability to roll through a lot of slippery situations. I did have one that went bad at so my research, choice and limited knowledge had me choosing the Eaton Detroit true trac for the reliability and less maintenance than the OEM gov lock. So far I've been lucky with the upgrades on the RT and so far everything has been an improvement. Thank you again Booster for the further education on the rear end. I'll hope for an improved performance in the snow and sand and will update the group literally down the road . *

I did similar research when I chose the Truetrac for the Buick.



What I found was that the Gov-lock they used in the smaller axles, I think it went into all the 10 bolt axles as an OEM, was quite prone to failure that was usually catastrophic.



The 10.5" axle Gov-locks had very few failures, in comparison to the smaller ones, from all I could find. We have one in our Dana 70s 10.5" in our Roadtrek and I think it is one of the very early units as it will lock up on a very sharp, but higher speed and with moderate load, which is not a good thing. Luckily it ratchets at that point so no damage.


What year is your 190 that it had a corporate (AAR same, I think) 10.5" axle in it? Pre 2003 version with drum brakes in the back?

[Floorman]

Originally Posted by booster

I did similar research when I chose the Truetrac for the Buick.



What I found was that the Gov-lock they used in the smaller axles, I think it went into all the 10 bolt axles as an OEM, was quite prone to failure that was usually catastrophic.



The 10.5" axle Gov-locks had very few failures, in comparison to the smaller ones, from all I could find. We have one in our Dana 70s 10.5" in our Roadtrek and I think it is one of the very early units as it will lock up on a very sharp, but higher speed and with moderate load, which is not a good thing. Luckily it ratchets at that point so no damage.


What year is your 190 that it had a corporate (AAR same, I think) 10.5" axle in it? Pre 2003 version with drum brakes in the back?

Have a 02C190P and rear drum brakes. Getting the proper ID on the rear end to order the correct Truetrac was first the number of bolts in the diff cover (14) the shape of the cover, the hub on the rear wheels for full floating axles, the GT5 on the build sheet for the 4.10 ratio, checking the VIN and parts on a GM OEM parts website and Anthony at Hooper's who asked if I had the bolt on pinion housing. Always have hope I get the part numbers correct .

[Floorman]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Thank you. Info all of us with the upgrade in our future have been looking for. All the other posters that did the upgrade apparently paid to have it done and had no clue what it took.

I will probably elect to do without the new remote switch and primer/LED function. Let us know what it actually takes to reroute the remote wiring. It looks impossible to me. Thank you for the part numbers.

Got the delivery of the new Generator and needed installation parts today. Figured out today the route for rewiring the 30 foot long remote harness (3383489-02) for the new fuel injected Onan 2.8HGLAA-8303A. Have an 02C190P and as stated previously had a 4 wire harness that would not operate full features of the new generator. The harness has plugs at both ends. The generator side is the same waterproof connector as the old one with the exception of a fifth wire on the new harness. I think later model RT's that have the prime and diagnostic led function I think you might already have a 5 wire harness that will plug and play with the new generator. The old remote switch and hour meter should also not need exchanging except for the hour meter can not be adjusted back to zero. The harness wires will be encased in 3/8 split plastic conduit. The route begins at the generator location matching the existing harness. It leads above the cross member of the framing through an existing opening in the passenger side main frame behind the rear battery box to 1 1/2 x 2" opening and its small vertical shaft in the passenger side rear door jamb. There are wire in the shaft along with a drain tube. Just above and to the outside of the opening there is a rubber plate about 4x4" that can be removed with a single 7/16 bolt to help guide the wiring up the shaft about 20 inches to an opening on the inside of the door jamb under the bed. I opened up this small weird shaped opening breaking off a small piece with lineman's pliers and then bent some small flanges to open it wider. The edges are sharp but I'll adhere split plastic conduit around this opening like they have done on the opening at the bottom of the shaft. I did not cut it as there is other wiring in the shaft. I will run the harness wiring high up under the bed attaching it to the wall with insulated hangers, go over the top of the rear wheel well, then going down to the floor behind the furnace following other wiring and plastic water supply pipe behind the back wall of the water closet. Discovered the screws that seem to be fastening the inside panel of the water closet are holding the outside finish panel which needs to be removed (and another small panel above the black water tank valve, all adjacent to the side rear door, This 12"wide x 50" tall panel needs to be carefully pryed off the corner and has small 1/4 in 20 gauge staples on the edge that need to be removed, later replaced and the small holes filled with"Color Putty". At the top of the opening there are a slew of wires going through a restricted opening into the cavity behind the switches. The old Remote switch comes out easily with 2 screws has a lot of extra wire. The new Remote Switch (300-5332) has a plug that matches the harness remote switch end plug. Not sure if that plug on the harness will fit through the restricted opening and there's no way I'll be drilling or cutting better access as there are too many wires. I figure I can always cut off the plug and run the wires through the restricted access and then splice the wires of the plug back on. I'd probably solder twisted wiring and use shrink tube for the insulation rather than crimped fasteners. Once rewired I'll install the Switch, replace the panels, the water closet door which I did not need to remove, push the top of the inside panel of the water closet back into its groove, screw the plastic faucet cover back into the rear WC panel all which I didn't need to remove. I'll get all the screws back into the bed plywood and then ready to install the generator after the detour to Los Angeles to get the truetrac differential installed next week. Hope this is helpful

[hbn7hj]

Thanks for the effort to write that up! Not sure I will try it!

[Floorman]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Thanks for the effort to write that up! Not sure I will try it!

The biggest hurdle is getting the harness into the cavity behind the switches. The only way I found to do it is to take off the outer 12 x 50" panel behind the W Closet. Running under the bed makes most sense as getting the wires up to the top of the rear door jamb seems very difficult. BTW, finding a generator was lucky as they are on backorder for at least another month as are the accessory parts needed for the installation. I finally called Cummins parts to inquire about availability parts and he referred me to the Cummins Irvine Ca warehouse who had the only Generator in stock in the entire Country. The cost was the same as the least expensive online provider and they had everything I need except the straight 36" Tailpipe kit (A046F72 which is on back order for a month. The small pallet arrived in 3 days and freight was only $150.
The KV undermount adapter plates (A043F935) seem expensive at $256 . They are basically a 1/8x1x1x1 x 10 inch long heavy duty Z bar that have 2 welded reinforced gussets and welded on nuts 8 3/4"cc and included mounting bolts to the KV side. The drilled bolt holes 3/8 for the new gen are 8 1/2"on center and are 1 3/8" on center below the upper welded on nuts. They are nicely finished probably powder coated. Guess I couldn't fabricate them but I bet the bar stock is a small portion of price. Guess an original thought to buy the regular mounding kit and switch the RT brackets which are off set angle steel was a exercise happily avoided. I was considering the sway bar but there is not enough room to move things around. While looking at the Hellwig 7635 sway bar they had a photo on the instructions that had a spare tire mounted under the place where the Generator and propane tank are in the RT. The cross member that the RT gen brackets are attached to, look machined to carry the hardware that held the spare tire. Some of the designs and adaptions that they did at Home and Park motor homes are amazing and then some of the things ........................

[hbn7hj]

If the passenger side door jamb is like the drivers side there is a plastic bulkhead in the middle that can be knocked out. Roadtrek knocked it out on the drivers side and put their trailer wiring adapter in there. Once that bulkhead is knocked out it is a clear shot to the top and clear forward to the cabinetry beside the toilet. I didn’t find an obvious way to get by that cabinetry but if I try and complete that route that is where I will start.

[Floorman]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

If the passenger side door jamb is like the drivers side there is a plastic bulkhead in the middle that can be knocked out. Roadtrek knocked it out on the drivers side and put their trailer wiring adapter in there. Once that bulkhead is knocked out it is a clear shot to the top and clear forward to the cabinetry beside the toilet. I didn’t find an obvious way to get by that cabinetry but if I try and complete that route that is where I will start.

I got the harness installed. There is no bulkhead in the rear passenger side door jamb on my 02C. Going low worked out although I did have to cut the remote end plug off to snake it through. The most difficult part is the restricted access into the switch cavity. I twisted soldered and shrink tubed the splices. I had carefully marked the individual wires as the markings are only visible close to the plug before cutting them . The marks came off on two wires #3 and 5, so I jumped the ends numbers 6
(or F) and 5 (or E) in the gen plug end and used the multi meter to do a continuity test. There is a schematic of the Harness wiring BTW in the installation instruction on both the old and the new generator. I still think going low is the best bet. Whatever way you go that Outside 12 x 50 back panel of the water closet needs to be opened up to get the wiring into the switch cavity. I saved the small staples and was able to get them all back in and fill the tiny holes with the color putty