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12-07-2020, 02:29 PM
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#1
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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Buck-Boost 26v at input terminal
I set up a new 50A Victron Buck-Boost in my MB Sprinter RV to charge 12v LFP batteries from the alternator. If I test the line-in cable at the alternator/starter battery end, it reads 13.1v. When I test it at the Buck-Boost input terminal, it reads 26v. Can someone help me understand why this is happening and what's wrong with my installation?
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12-07-2020, 03:41 PM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 8,828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarCorpsMustang
...... When I test it at the Buck-Boost input terminal,..........
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Is that the output terminal?
If so, seems like it is set for 12V to 24V conversion. It's programmable via Windows PC so take a look at the settings.
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12-07-2020, 04:13 PM
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#3
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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No. It's the other end of the cable running from the starter battery/alternator. 13v at the alternator end; 26v at the buck-boost end when connected to the buck-boost input terminal. How is that even possible?
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12-07-2020, 05:43 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,426
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Where are you getting your ground reference?
__________________
Now: 2022 Fully-custom buildout (Ford Transit EcoBoost AWD)
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
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12-07-2020, 06:04 PM
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#5
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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Off the BMV-712 shunt
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12-07-2020, 06:09 PM
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#6
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarCorpsMustang
Off the BMV-712 shunt
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Sorry; that wasn't much of answer. Yes, tapping into the BMV-712 shunt, which in turn is grounded at the Xantrex Freedom SW 3000W inverter/charger that charges the same set of LFP batteries I want the buck-boost to charge..
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12-07-2020, 06:18 PM
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#7
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,413
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What does that voltage read when it is not connected to the buck boost but just open. If it reads OK, you must have a bad unit or ground on it. The odd part is it should back bleed out of the input unless it just goes to the alternator where the diodes would hold it up.
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12-07-2020, 07:11 PM
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#8
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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When not connected to the buck-boost the voltage reads zero.
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12-07-2020, 07:56 PM
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#9
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarCorpsMustang
When not connected to the buck-boost the voltage reads zero.
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If it reads 13+v at the other end of the cable and zero at the buck boost end when disconnected, it would be very odd and a bad cable or breaker, I think.
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12-08-2020, 04:16 AM
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#10
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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Thanks, Booster. I was afraid of that. I sincerely do not wish to run another cable, but that may be what I'm faced with.
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12-08-2020, 12:51 PM
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#11
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarCorpsMustang
Thanks, Booster. I was afraid of that. I sincerely do not wish to run another cable, but that may be what I'm faced with.
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Before you consider running a new cable be sure to look for breakers and fuses in the line. Most OEM setups will have a breaker on each end of the cable because of the two direction current they carry.
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12-08-2020, 01:23 PM
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#12
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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I sure will; thanks. I put fuses on both ends of the cable I ran and will check them again.
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12-09-2020, 08:38 PM
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#13
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 42
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Issue resolved! It was a bad ground, something wise forum members tried to tell me, but this gnarly old Gyrene wouldn't listen. Thanks for your patience and assistance!
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12-10-2020, 04:03 PM
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#14
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 8,828
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Thanks for posting the solution.
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