Battery Isolator Question

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

I don't think anything needs fixing. Seems to me the setrup is working as it's supposed to

You were right. According to Dynamax, it is working correctly.

[markopolo]

I see that the entire device is an INTELLITEC MICRO BCC (Battery Control Center).



R & K Products : INTELLITEC 0000635100 MICRO BCC [0000635100] - $229.97

It is a bi-directional isolator relay delay (BIRD) device. It might have had a cover with the Intellitec brand and description on it at some point.

[eric1514]

I wouldn't cover it. That thing is hot. I'm seriously thinking about adding a fan. It is in a small compartment with a carpeted cover I removed to take that picture and that box is inside a larger storage compartment on the outside of the coach. On the other hand, it's evidently been working fine for around 14 years.

[markopolo]

Good point about the heat + cover. I'm guessing that a list of what the fuses are each for is located elsewhere.

[markopolo]

This could be the service manual: http://www.mikerobotics.com/Intellit...5322119100.pdf

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by markopolo

This could be the service manual: http://www.mikerobotics.com/Intellit...5322119100.pdf

Thanks, Marco!

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by eric1514

Quick update. According to someone at Dynamax who haunts the Forest River forum, it is indeed a bi-directional system.

See if he can provide a schematic of the factory wiring setup.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by eric1514

Thanks folks,

Here's what I found. This morning after being unplugged all night and having 2 vent fans running my batteries where like this.

Chassis-12.84
House-12.35

I plugged in and after a couple of minutes

Chassis-13.56
House-13.56

Unplugged and engine on

Chassis-13.74
House-13.61

Eric

The system is operating as it should but the voltages you are seeing warrants investigating. When you plug in, the charging source is a Progressive unit which is probably a multi-stage charger and if it is in the maintenance stage, 13.56 Volts is normal. But if the charger sees a significantly discharged battery it should start the charging sequence at around 14 volts because you will grow old waiting for a discharged battery to fully recharge with 13.56V.
What is the model number of the charger?

There is a similar issue with the battery voltages under engine/alternator operation. This system doesn't employ diodes so there is a direct connection between the alternator and the batteries via the solenoid. You should be seeing in the whereabouts of 14-14.2 volts (depending on ambient temp) at the batteries when the engine is running. If you can access and measure the voltage at the alternator terminal it would be helpful.

[eric1514]

I’m away right now but I’ll check it closer when I get a chance

[Hatteras Jim]

Inside the solenoid is a copper disc that is pulled across 2 terminals when energized. I have seen quite a few failures resulting from excessive carbon build up between the terminals and the disc (after autopsy) which can also result in adding additional heat to situation under load. And the solenoids do get warm/hot to the touch even when working properly and unloaded.


When measuring voltages, you need to measure from ground to both large terminals on the same solenoid to see if there is a difference in your readings when energized. A difference may indicate failing solenoid contacts.



One easy way to check to see what your normal solenoid operating temperature is-- is to remove it from the circuit completely and energize it. To do this: 1. Remove all wires from the large terminal on the left (as you face your solenoid) Be careful, it will be energized. 2. Remove the purple wire from the small terminal next to it. 3. Confirm that the black wire is really the ground terminal next to it. Use an ohmmeter. If not certain, remove it and ground it yourself so you are certain. Don't assume black is always negative. It should be;but??? 4. Take a small jumper (of the same wire gauge as the purple wire or heavier) and go from the large battery cable that you removed to the small terminal that the purple wire was on. 5. You should hear your solenoid energize. Run it for about 5 minutes and check the temperature. If it is not as hot as it was before, I'd replace the solenoid, especially if I noticed a voltage drop across the terminals previously. An IR thermometer would give you more accurate data;but, your hand also works.


This is just what I would do for peace of mind in regards to the heat; other opinions may differ and that is fine. At least you are aware that they do generate some warmth. Have seen folks pile combustible materials (toilet paper) on top of them. Good luck.

[ChicagoTom]

You screwed up by making everyone think it was the Travato, or am I missing something?

[archeogal2]

Another more basic question about a battery isolator. We have a technician who is willing to install the Trik-L-Start we just got on our 2015 Great West Van on the Promaster. But we are having trouble finding the battery isolator. We have no idea, and he looked a few places without finding it. So I am looking for any information about where to look for the battery isolator in our vehicle. Any ideas out there?

[avanti]

Originally Posted by archeogal2

Another more basic question about a battery isolator. We have a technician who is willing to install the Trik-L-Start we just got on our 2015 Great West Van on the Promaster. But we are having trouble finding the battery isolator. We have no idea, and he looked a few places without finding it. So I am looking for any information about where to look for the battery isolator in our vehicle. Any ideas out there?

In Sprinters at least, GWV put the isolator in the engine compartment, mounted on the driver's side bulkhead, over by the Espar overflow tank. They were creatures of habit, so I would look there, if you haven't already.

[archeogal2]

Still looking for the isolator. Here's a couple of photos from the engine compartment, driver's side. Anything here an isolator?


IMG_0957-1.jpg

IMG_0958-1.jpg

[avanti]

I don't see it.

There is most likely an added wire from the chassis battery positive terminal directly to the isolator (probably through an in-line fuse). Try going to the battery and see if you can spot an aftermarket-looking wire and follow it.

[ChicagoTom]

Top photo is your isolator

[markopolo]

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

Top photo is your isolator

Top photo appears to be a vacuum pump.

[ChicagoTom]

Looks similar to mine, but simply see where the wires are going. Should be see in and out. I'm not familiar with Domel, and not sure why one side made in Romania, and other Mexico. Doesn't anyone in this group have the same model and year RV as You?

[markopolo]

UP30 Vacuum Pump

[ChicagoTom]

LOL, well that answers that...back to the model RV he has. Promaster may be set up on different make RVs. His may even be inside the RV. Maybe check a FaceBook group for that model/make RV