Mike -
blackbourn3704 has the right idea; an alternator provides what is demanded of it, at its designed speed. So if the batteries, and system "need" 200 Amps, but the alternator is only able to make 145 - Tough. Something won't run. (Without depleeting the battery bank!)
So what is the designed speed (RPM)? Alternators have a chart - you might be able to find one for your specific one. Else, here is a generic one, thanks to Physics Forum:
OK. So you'd get 145-ish about 4800 RPM - Alternator RPM - not the engine.
The ratio of the belt drive pulleys reduces the engine RPM speed required to create the alternator RPM for output in a "useful range." So if the pulleys were 2:1 You'd get 145 Amps - IF 'REQUIRED" - at about 2500 RPM engine speed. Or right around highway cruising speed, yes? But sitting in the park (at idle), more like 75 Amps. Keep in mind, as the alternator warms in the engine bay, and through charging, the output is greatly reduced. Could be 50% at max speed. Then that 145 Amp Alternator is only 70-ish Amps.
FWIW - the isolator in the mail is rated at 150 Amps. I would expect that is probably conservative, but wouldn't count on much more that 10-15 Amps over that. When/if you choose to upgrade to higher consumption requirements, there are other options to meet those too. And it is probably best to look at the entire system and tailor the components to the overall system requirements, Consumption, Capacity, Charging the Top3 in my mind.
Hope that is helpful.
pasusan: You could run a test. First I'd check the breaker and fuses attached to it. Then I'd want to use a Clamp-onAmmeter and put some loads on and check that way.
I'm sure there are other approaches. Best of Luck.
Cheers - Jim