Additional battery

[Bud]

booster, cruising, yes a 1 stage charger.

booster, we know Roadtrek does not exactly state weights ........, well inverters too, I think.

The 04 brochure says 3 stage charger along with the 05 brochure, but the 04 owner's manual does not. All 04/05 stuff says a 600 watt inverter. The B was put into service 22 months before I purchased it by a retired trucker and wife. He passed away, wife to assisted living, son selling to me. When I actually looked, it was a Parallex 7345 with a separate Zantrex 400+ inverter which does not even have continuous 400 watts. The Roadtrex 600 watts was apparently surge watts which is what the Zantrex 400 had, 600 watts max. I think that it was original. The inverter was always powered on with an on/off switch from a separate pair of wires to the inverter. The inverter gave up during my last travel, so I replaced it with a cheap one from an auto parts store. When home, I purchased another inverter and added an inline on/off switch.

My memory is slowly giving up. I can hardly recall 2.5 years ago learning about the converter/charger, wiring the second battery and why I did what I did. Oh, now recalling that I don't think Roadtrek ever had any fuse associated with the one original battery, seemed odd. I think that maybe Roadtrek entered a contest to have the worst battery installation of any rv, probably lost though.

Very good of you fellows stepping up to assist Thevon and myself. Since I'm in a lazy mood at the moment and evidently was 2.5 years ago, I'll probably do nothing. So far, all is good and the batteries seem happy. But, changing out the charger in the Parallex is not any big deal, so................. who knows.

Purchased the Roadtrek 190 for the third seat which I removed along with the box/drawer under the seat. After 6 years that application died, so today I would like some more spaciousness like the 05 Pleasureway Lexor had. Rather than change out the charger, maybe another b. Problem is, this one is ready to roll out the driveway after some air in the tires and water sanitized where a new one will be hassle one way or another, and I really do like the Express Van.

Bud

[booster]

Thanks, Bud, very good information for the future and other owners of the early years of the newer Chevies, and even more reason not to bother with rearranging the wiring.

[markopolo]

The Parallex / Xantrex combo could have been a later change by an owner of the RV (I don't know if Bud owned it since new).

The '04's came from the factory floor with a Tripp Lite inverter charger as far a I know. The '04 I owned had the Tripp Lite.

If it works well enough, there's no need to change it now. I think Bud uses a separate float charger.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by markopolo

The Parallex / Xantrex combo could have been a later change by an owner of the RV (I don't know if Bud owned it since new).

The '04's came from the factory floor with a Tripp Lite inverter charger as far a I know. The '04 I owned had the Tripp Lite.

If it works well enough, there's no need to change it now. I think Bud uses a separate float charger.

When I decided to install 2 new batteries, I also decided to take care of the batteries appropriately for the first time in my life, poor beetle battery under the back seat and all the others. So I do use a battery tender when not traveling, distilled water, etc.

The b was put into service in January of 05. I'm sure that it is an 05/04, 99% sure that the converter and zantrex were original, it is logical and it all looked original. I don't like bothering a manufacture (costs money, or someone else is not served) for a curiosity. I could call them with the vin #, and I think there is a good chance that they can explain the why's we're wondering about.

Was your 04 and 05/04, 04/04, 04/03? I did guess earlier that I probably had one of the last 05 with the Parallel, just a guess.

Bud

[markopolo]

Mine was an '04 RT 190P on an '04 Chevy chassis. I purchased it just before summer 2005. I recall it being about 11 months old when I got it.

[booster]

I just looked at the 2003 brochure, and it seems to indicate a 45 amp converter with no mention of an inverter. No 3 step terminology.


I wonder if Bud's was an early fit test unit that was refit for sale later on. It might be of interest to check the VIN for model year, 10th digit IIRC, and the GM manufacture date on the door tag or sometimes on the RPO sticker.

[markopolo]

As Booster notes, the 10th character or digit of the VIN shows the year of the chassis. An '04 Chevy would have the number 4 in spot #10.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Mine was an '04 RT 190P on an '04 Chevy chassis. I purchased it just before summer 2005. I recall it being about 11 months old when I got it.

Maybe a logical guess markopolo would be:

-We know Roadtrek made changes during model years, Roadtrek can't tell you some things about your b without the vin #, model year won't work.

-So maybe someone just went out to the Express Van parking lot, was a little negligent, and just selected mine to be built. Then later they selected yours and put in a triplite, but the rules concerning yours did not permit calling it an 05. My b was titled wrong in Mississippi. I did not know how long I would keep it, so wanted it titled as an 05. I worked with the Louisiana DMV. They were not responding as they should, so I researched titling it in Montana. I was also there regularly at the time. Called the DMV and explained that I did not want to title in Montana, but I was certain it was legal with one simple condition that had to be met. They agreed that it would be titled 05 with original paper work from the manufacturer. The Roadtrek person I spoke with did not know the 'rules' for determining model/chassis years. Seems like this is kind of an interesting mystery.

Although it would not only cost less titling in Montana a little over $3000, the ongoing costs would be less. Still, I did think of it as ethical. Well, unless Louisiana would not do the right thing, but they did.

Bud

[Bud]

Originally Posted by booster

I just looked at the 2003 brochure, and it seems to indicate a 45 amp converter with no mention of an inverter. No 3 step terminology.


I wonder if Bud's was an early fit test unit that was refit for sale later on. It might be of interest to check the VIN for model year, 10th digit IIRC, and the GM manufacture date on the door tag or sometimes on the RPO sticker.

Interesting booster because the manufacturing date is February 02/04. A mystery worth solving? I still can't bring myself to call Roadtrek. Long ago, I called Roadtrek and kind of apologized for bothering them about a 'used' b question, but the manual made no sense, e.g. how the one fresh water display worked, what it meant. The person agreed that the manuals were not the best.

Bud

[markopolo]

It is an interesting mystery

Mine had the maple (not oak) interior, flat panel TV (110 volt AC) and smoked glass door (not roll up slat door) on the electronics cupboard. Is yours like that?

[Bud]

Originally Posted by markopolo

It is an interesting mystery

Mine had the maple (not oak) interior, flat panel TV (110 volt AC) and smoked glass door (not roll up slat door) on the electronics cupboard. Is yours like that?

Yes to all. The tv was a monitor with a broadcast tuner inside, 15 inch I think.

I asked Roadtrek about model years and sold date, but not Roadtrek's manufacturing date.

[markopolo]

Just a thought - RT might have run out of Tripp Lites on the '05 production line and used a Parallex instead. I'm a bit curious as to how the TV would work if not on an inverter with a built in automatic transfer switch.... Or did the inverter they used have an ATS?

The 600 watt Tripp Lites (RV612ULHW) weren't used for long - one or two model years at most I think. RT started using the 750 watt Tripp Lites (RV750ULHW). I think they started putting in a remote inverter switch in 2006.

Edit: Now I'm thinking your unit was built right in the middle of the RV612ULHW to RV750ULHW switch over. Both the 600w and 750w were overkill for powering the stuff plugged into the outlet in the electronics cupboard so they might have been exploring other options. That was the only outlet/circuit automatically powered by the inverter in my '04 RT.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Just a thought - RT might have run out of Tripp Lites on the '05 production line and used a Parallex instead. I'm a bit curious as to how the TV would work if not on an inverter with a built in automatic transfer switch.... Or did the inverter they used have an ATS?

The 600 watt Tripp Lites (RV612ULHW) weren't used for long - one or two model years at most I think. RT started using the 750 watt Tripp Lites (RV750ULHW). I think they started putting in a remote inverter switch in 2006.

Edit: Now I'm thinking your unit was built right in the middle of the RV612ULHW to RV750ULHW switch over. Both the 600w and 750w were overkill for powering the stuff plugged into the outlet in the electronics cupboard so they might have been exploring other options. That was the only outlet/circuit automatically powered by the inverter in my '04 RT.

The converter has a fuse inverter, forget the amp size. There is a remote on/off switch that connected to the inverter which is always powered. I suppose the pair of wires simply made or broke some connection in the inverter as the inverter always has 12 volts dc. Again the chance that this is all Roadtrek installed is 99%. The power strip in the cabinet simply ran down the wall and plugged into the inverter 110v socket. I added an ATS switch such that the power strip today is shore power, the generator, then inverter. I have a manual refer, no dc needed to run. The refer is plugged into the power strip in the cabinet, so I automatically run the tv etc. and refer on 110 volts from the appropriate source - only switch between AC and propane with the manual refer. The power strip I use has an on/off switch for each socket.

Since mine appears to be an early 05 model, maybe your guess about running out of the new converters is right on. Their first order may not have been very large and holding up production can be expensive.

[Bud]

markopolo, do you have a fuse for the original battery behind the rear wheel anywhere?

[avanti]

These MRBF battery terminal fuses are da bomb:

F3.JPG

F1.JPG

[Bud]

Originally Posted by avanti

These MRBF battery terminal fuses are da bomb:

Attachment 6409

Attachment 6410

Agree and I purchased one recently.

Seems like about every 9 months I consider fuses with the batteries. Then I don't. In my garage right now I have out an extension cord, drill, ...... for the last 2 days.

The da bomb is too tall, so I went to the hardware store and purchased several different L brackets. Thought I would cut to right length, drill holes and turn the da bomb on it's side - someday.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Bud

Very good of you fellows stepping up to assist Thevon and myself. Since I'm in a lazy mood at the moment and evidently was 2.5 years ago, I'll probably do nothing. So far, all is good and the batteries seem happy. But, changing out the charger in the Parallex is not any big deal, so................. who knows.

If you decide to upgrade the charger, the go to guy for this is Randy at Best Converter. He can set you up with a smart charging module (most likely one in the Progressive PD9200 series) that can be fit into the bottom of the Parallax unit which permits you to retain the Parallax frame and the fuse distribution section. They incorporate a pendant that permits you to force the multi-state charger into any of its modes if wish, ie, maintenance, absorption or boost. There's even an equalizer mode for flooded cell batteries.

One thing you want to do before effecting a replacement is to determine the gauge of the existing feeder between the Parallax and your batteries to ensure it' will support the ampere output capability you choose for the replacement module. I'm guessing it's either 8 or 6 gauge. Since you have a 7345, the existing feeder will most likely be OK for a 45 amp replacement but if you want to get the 60 or 70 amp replacement, (at a very small cost increase), then it's prudent to beef up the feeder between the charger and the batteries.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

If you decide to upgrade the charger, the go to guy for this is Randy at Best Converter. He can set you up with a smart charging module (most likely one in the Progressive PD9200 series) that can be fit into the bottom of the Parallax unit which permits you to retain the Parallax frame and the fuse distribution section. They incorporate a pendant that permits you to force the multi-state charger into any of its modes if wish, ie, maintenance, absorption or boost. There's even an equalizer mode for flooded cell batteries.

One thing you want to do before effecting a replacement is to determine the gauge of the existing feeder between the Parallax and your batteries to ensure it' will support the ampere output capability you choose for the replacement module. I'm guessing it's either 8 or 6 gauge. Since you have a 7345, the existing feeder will most likely be OK for a 45 amp replacement but if you want to get the 60 or 70 amp replacement, (at a very small cost increase), then it's prudent to beef up the feeder between the charger and the batteries.

Thanks for the suggestion cruising. I used 4 gauge, it appears that Roadtrek used 4 or 2. When the existing batteries give up, I'll probably go with exactly what you suggested and agm batteries, no accessing the LOUSY battery location of the original battery to water. If I had to listen to the loud converter fan much, I would do it now. The tv with sat receiver or tuner amplifier and charging a laptop ........ does not activate the charger much. And the batteries are charged or near charged when I stop and use shore power.

I need to go somewhere. Maybe that big rv show and see some leaves turning.

[markopolo]

Originally Posted by Bud

markopolo, do you have a fuse for the original battery behind the rear wheel anywhere?

There was no fuse at that location on the '04 I had. I did fuse the new wire when I added a second battery forward of the wheel. It should have a fuse on at both ends of the wire.

I used those MRBF battery terminal fuses on my last battery / inverter related project. Those make fusing heavy cable easy. I carry a spare fuse as well.

[Monica998]

Originally Posted by BBQ

.
When you have multiple batteries,
you should always have them in the same size, same make (if possible), and same age.

Just like what you said, if you change the batteries, you should keep them in the same shape, same size, same age for one supplier at the same time. For the only one battery, it seems much easier, just change one, that's OK.