2018 RT Simplicity inverter issue/DOA

[PhilmontP]

Newly acquired 2018 RT Simplicity. All electric systems worked until it didn't. Shore power connected but no 110 works inside and it doesn't charge 12 volt battery. I know there is power going through the power cord. No solar system. The battery is drained. If I drive the RV the alternator begins to recharge the house battery. The 15 amp GFI breaker above the drive seat is tripped and unable to reset. Not sure what that circuit does? I want to assume it is the 2000w Microgreen Inverter. Unable to test 110 AC input for power in back of inverter without partially removing inverter. Not sure on next step? Thoughts?

[mumkin]

The tripped circuit shuts off all the 110v. That GFI requires super strong fingers to fix. You need to turn it off and on again... sometimes 2 or 3 times. (then rest your hand for the rest of the day)

I think that will fix the issue...

[PhilmontP]

Turned it on and off at least 15 times -no luck. Thanks for the suggestion

[PreciousRoy]

That 15A GFCI breaker must be on the load side of the inverter/charger or else it would limit your incoming shore power to 15A as well.

If your Simplicity is like my Chase and I'm fairly sure it is, there is nothing between the 14-30P inlet and the inverter input than a length of 10/2 cable. No overcurrent protection at all on the 30A input side. It's not even labeled - I had to trace mine to see which one went to the shore and which one fed the distribution panel.

There is a slight possibility that your input plug is damaged. I've heard of a few folks having to replace or rewire those, especially since they hang down under the bumper and can easily become victim to stumps, etc.

If you have a non-contact voltage detector you can reach down behind the inverter while plugged into shore and see if you get a beep. That would at least rule the connection out.

I fear you may be replacing your inverter/charger though. I am in the exact same boat as you - my new inverter arrives Sunday.

[PhilmontP]

I used the non contact voltage detector on the wire that comes out of the receptacle below the rear bumper where the power cord plugs into and it shows power so I am ruling out a issue with the receptacle. I tried reaching in the back of the inverter with the NCVD and I can't get close enough to the wire. Space is too tight. What inverter replacement did you go with. Is your current inverter 2000w Microgreen Inverter? I will be curious to hear how easy the replacement will work once you remove the existing inverter.
Thanks for the thoughts

[PreciousRoy]

Originally Posted by PhilmontP

I used the non contact voltage detector on the wire that comes out of the receptacle below the rear bumper where the power cord plugs into and it shows power so I am ruling out a issue with the receptacle. I tried reaching in the back of the inverter with the NCVD and I can't get close enough to the wire. Space is too tight. What inverter replacement did you go with. Is your current inverter 2000w Microgreen Inverter? I will be curious to hear how easy the replacement will work once you remove the existing inverter.
Thanks for the thoughts

My original inverter/charger was the KS2-branded one that RoadTrek was supplying at the time. (KS2 is also the manufacturer of the "Ecotrek" branded Li-Ion batteries, about which you can find lots of good info on this forum).

In actuality, it's a non-branded PSW7-based inverter available under a hundred different brand names. I'm currently looking for a replacement comm board for it so I can repair. I "fried" it while trying to troubleshoot battery charging issues. Turns out that plugging the wrong monitoring cable into the monitoring port fries the control board and disables the entire thing.

The problem with these vans is that the inverter/charger is really the linchpin in the entire coach electrical system. It's the AC transfer switch, and depending on how your van is wired, the central connection point for all the DC chargers as well, so when it is down, everything is down.

I debated replacing it with separate components (AC breaker and auto transfer switch for Shore to coach 120V, separate inverter for boondocking-120V, and separate charger) but after looking at the cost and amount of space I had to work with, decided to punt and just replace the inverter/charger as one piece.

The one I went with is this: Renogy REGO 3000W Inverter Charger

It was the one that most closely matched the original in size (important since there is NOT a lot of wiggle room), had the ability to create custom charge profiles (the KS2 Lithium batteries are very sensitive to overcharging and most inverters didn't have a programmed profile low enough for them), and this one has bluetooth so I can monitor it without crawling into a cabinet.

I'll take some pictures during the process so you can see what my wiring looks like. We have very similar vans so I'm guessing yours is pretty similar if not identical.

[booster]

Originally Posted by PreciousRoy

The problem with these vans is that the inverter/charger is really the linchpin in the entire coach electrical system. It's the AC transfer switch, and depending on how your van is wired, the central connection point for all the DC chargers as well, so when it is down, everything is down.

I don't think I would blame this on the shore charger, as most of them can be used free standing and leave the other sources independent.

The problems come when you have the centralized controller setups like a Firefly. If they get faulted or shut down for some reason, everything stops.

I started a discussion about that topic a while ago and got a lot of interesting feedback.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ems-14915.html

We have been intentional to keep all of systems separated but set to play well together for the whole 16 years we have had our van. Automatic charge controls are great, but only within their specific charge source, not centralized, IMO.

[mumkin]

Originally Posted by PhilmontP

Turned it on and off at least 15 times -no luck. Thanks for the suggestion

Seems to me if the breaker won't reset, could be the breaker. If it doesn't reset, you have no 110v to the van.

But, in a 2018, if it is the original inverter and/or battery, they are both about ready for replacement anyway.

Another thing to check would be whether the switch on top of the inverter is OFF as it should always be (if on, it will kill the battery very quickly), and that the remote switch is working properly. (just be thankful you don't have the firefly)

[peteco]

Originally Posted by mumkin

But, in a 2018, if it is the original inverter and/or battery, they are both about ready for replacement anyway.

Why would the inverter be ready for replacement?

[PreciousRoy]

Here is the electrical cabinet in my '21 Chase with the inverter/charger removed. This should be pretty similar if not identical to the wiring in your Simplicity.

The 10/2 from Shore is in black loom - the unloomed 10/2 is the AC feeder for the breaker panel above the driver's seat.

[PreciousRoy]

Originally Posted by mumkin

Seems to me if the breaker won't reset, could be the breaker. If it doesn't reset, you have no 110v to the van.

I don't remember which make of breakers are in the van, but some breakers won't reset internally until there is a current source, so if the inverter is not supplying 120VAC, flipping the handle might not really be doing anything.

Also, even if you have 120VAC at the inverter, if your inverter has an internal fault it might just be instantly re-tripping that GFCI breaker every time you close it. However, if the inverter has an internal fault, it would shut down or refuse to start anyway.

[mumkin]

Originally Posted by peteco

Why would the inverter be ready for replacement?

It could have been abused by previous owners of the van... use in campgrounds without surge protection... some were originally wired incorrectly, which can cause issues if not fixed... and it's a cheap Chinese inverter.

Precious Roy: Here is the electrical cabinet in my '21 Chase with the inverter/charger removed. This should be pretty similar if not identical to the wiring in your Simplicity.

This Simplicity was built by the old Roadtrek company and yours is from the new one. So, I wouldn't expect it to be identical. And Roadtrek has long been famous for changing stuff to keep us owners on our toes. lol I'm pretty sure that they are using a different brand, hopefully more dependable.

[PhilmontP]

We just got the class b a few months ago. It was very lightly used and it had less that 12,000 miles on it. It came with a decent surge protector from the previous owner.

I am unable to reset the circuit breaker where it just re trips. It just does not clicks back on to where it trips. Nothing shows on the inverter screen.

[booster]

Originally Posted by PhilmontP

We just got the class b a few months ago. It was very lightly used and it had less that 12,000 miles on it. It came with a decent surge protector from the previous owner.

I am unable to reset the circuit breaker where it just re trips. It just does not clicks back on to where it trips. Nothing shows on the inverter screen.

Do you get 110v to the coach when on shore power?

[PhilmontP]

No 110 power inside when connected to shore power.

[booster]

Originally Posted by PhilmontP

No 110 power inside when connected to shore power.

That could be the automatic transfer switch not passing it through from shore power. Best would be to check the GFCI in question and check to see if there is any power to it. There may not be so that would mean to look upstream for the issue.

[PreciousRoy]

I'm not sure if the Microgreen inverter has the 120VAC terminals on the side you can access or not, but if it does you may be able to get multimeter probes on them and test for power at the input side.

When the inverter off the transfer switch will be open so you won't have 120VAC in the coach until you get the inverter working or replaced.

Originally Posted by mumkin

This Simplicity was built by the old Roadtrek company and yours is from the new one. So, I wouldn't expect it to be identical. And Roadtrek has long been famous for changing stuff to keep us owners on our toes. lol I'm pretty sure that they are using a different brand, hopefully more dependable.

I'd be interested to see. I realize OP's van is Hymer Roadtrek and mine is post-bankruptcy (Thor?) Roadtrek, but other than updated components there weren't too many changes made (floor plans, basic wiring, etc. are all the same).

I've followed the wiring diagrams from the pre-bankruptcy Hymer Roadtreks and my van is almost exactly the same with only slight differences that are mostly Firefly-driven.

[PhilmontP]

current Inverter

[MMnJM]

I had something similar - reset inverter with buttons on top of inverter - easy access once top of wood seat removed - then reset 110 breaker. Worked for me. Good luck
And you must be plugged in to shore power during above process

[PhilmontP]

A local rv repair shop made the suggestion to me and it worked. He suggested that I put the battery on a low charge. He said when the battery is completely drained the inverter is dead even plugged in shore power. I has it on a low trickle overnight and everything is back to normal. Being plugged in shore power the battery is still being charged. The breaker is reset. Life is good.
Thanks to all who shared suggestions.