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Old 12-22-2018, 07:54 PM   #21
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Mary, when you are ready, start a new thread titled "99 Coachmen battery/charger upgrade", or something similar. The first step would be to make better use of what you have and the Trimetric monitor is a good first step. We could do it by email but you would be better served by getting several opinions.
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Old 12-22-2018, 09:22 PM   #22
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Thank you. I can't see how to start a new thread but I will figure this out. I will not be traveling in the class B until probably april or may so I have some time to get a better set up. Happy Holidays to you and yours, mary
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Old 12-23-2018, 02:22 AM   #23
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Mary, while installing the Trimetric battery monitor note the brand and model of power panel/converter. You can decide later whether you want to upgrade it or install a battery charger for the lead acid battery.

Some more reading. Opinionated but a good place to start before you get your own opinions.

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

The gift is the install of the battery monitor. Not always easy. Need to be able to see it from the bed.
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Old 12-23-2018, 06:26 AM   #24
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Thank you. I am familiar with Bob Shearer. Read his postings a couple of years ago and read his latest a few weeks ago.

Yes, my son and I have found a good place for the monitor. Running the wires will not be too bad. The hard part is going to be where to put the shunt.

I have a magnatex 7300. model 7345 45 amp. I had thought about replacing it a couple of years ago but decided at that time to leave it and just get an independent chargers for the lithium and the LA. ...but should maybe revisit that.

I do appreciate your help and ideas. I try to read posting but I have no background in electrical matters so my wee brain gets full very easily.
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Old 12-23-2018, 04:56 PM   #25
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Back to the topic at hand. The lithium charges very well from the alternator when set to both. FLA was at 100%, lithium at 85%. Fully charged in 20 minutes. I need a house voltage read out on the dash. Will try it with both batteries discharged a little bit and see how that works.

From our parallel testing experience we won't keep it on both without the engine running.
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Old 12-23-2018, 06:48 PM   #26
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Thank you! Have never considered charging from my alternator directly. As far as I know, very little goes in with the current set up...?? going though the converter/charger.??

When you say..."when set to both".. do you mean charge both the lithium and LA charging directly from the alternation at the same time? So... from your experience, would it be possible to have a trimetric back in the van...and a 2nd voltage meter attached that would be mounted on the dash?? ....and a third voltage meter for the lithium mounted on the dash? I know the lithium is happy accepting a high amp charge but I thought that LA 105 ah doesn't like anything over a starting bulk charge of 10 amps??

Are you saying I could get a "smart 3 or 4 stage" charger that is connected to my alternator? Actually two... one for each battery?
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Old 12-23-2018, 09:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NW Lady View Post
Thank you! Have never considered charging from my alternator directly. As far as I know, very little goes in with the current set up...?? going though the converter/charger.??

When you say..."when set to both".. do you mean charge both the lithium and LA charging directly from the alternation at the same time? So... from your experience, would it be possible to have a trimetric back in the van...and a 2nd voltage meter attached that would be mounted on the dash?? ....and a third voltage meter for the lithium mounted on the dash? I know the lithium is happy accepting a high amp charge but I thought that LA 105 ah doesn't like anything over a starting bulk charge of 10 amps??

Are you saying I could get a "smart 3 or 4 stage" charger that is connected to my alternator? Actually two... one for each battery?
We just shorted the two batteries together after starting the engine. Original voltage was 14.7 but dropped down. I can't check it from the driver's seat but 20 minutes later it was 13.7 volts. I wouldn't like to drive without knowing the charge voltage into the lithium. A Scangauge would do the job. 33F ambient temp after an overnight cold soak on the alternator and chassis AGM battery.

This experiment used no charging device or converter, just the batteries and alternator. Lithium current inflow was about 40 amps.

My DC to DC manual suggests starting bulk charge should be .2C which would be 20 amps. I set the charger for 30 amps but haven't used it yet.
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:08 AM   #28
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Those of you that have them, do any/all lithium systems charge directly from the alternator?
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:29 AM   #29
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Obviously the lithium battery in a class B hybrid system must also charge while driving.

One way is to set the battery switch to both, another way would be to put another Kisae DC to DC charger (50amp) between the alternator and the battery and use it's lithium setting. Not sure I have room for another one but that would be the best way. I will work with the both setting once I get a charge voltage readout on the dash.

Traveling daily a generator would get little use since the lithium charges so fast.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:54 PM   #30
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Default Class B hybrid battery system is a very different animal

My trip through southern New Mexico has been very enlightening, power wise.

A hybrid battery system for a class C that doesn't move is very different from one for a class B that moves.

The class B doesn't need the AC lithium charger nor does it need the DC to DC charger to charge the LA. What it does need is a DC to DC charger (50 amp) to charge the lithium from the LA when the engine is running, a marine battery switch, and a three stage converter to charge the LA from shore power or generator. The lithium could also be charged at that time through the DC to DC charger.

I received a detailed explanation from Kisae explaining why the LA is being charged from the lithium whether or not the control input is at 12 volts. Bottom line is the unit is designed to work with a solar input in a marine environment. If the boat engine is started the battery input will cross a certain threshold, probably 13.2 volts, turn off solar charging, and charge the house battery from the alternator. When we hook a lithium battery to that port it is always above that threshold. The control input is there to override when input thresholds are not met but you still want to charge from the alternator.

The only alternative for us is to put a high current switch in the charging (lithium) battery circuit.

Anyhow, a hybrid system can be installed in a class B with the addition of a lithium battery and a marine battery switch if you want to charge it directly from the alternator.

As an addendum the hybrid system worked very well, having plenty of power in freezing temperatures. I did go through a lot of propane keeping the coach at 70F during the day and 55F at night. Both batteries were at 100% at sunset, daily.
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Old 12-29-2018, 11:23 PM   #31
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We are pretty much done here. I am going to put a DC to DC charger between the alternator and the lithium battery dialed down to 40 amps. Toggle switch up charges FLA from lithium, toggle switch down charges lithium from alternator.

This system is good to park for days and run off the generator or driven daily can leave the generator silent.

Following are the links to the parts. I haven't checked the links so some may not work. The toggle switch I bought from Backcountry Solar but was unable to locate it again on their site so I just posted a link to the vendor. It is a single pole double throw on-off-on 50 amp DC toggle switch.

Wish I had room for a house inverter with transfer switch but I'm done for now.

Hope the links work if anybody cares.

Wire
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Terminal covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Circuit breaker
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Battery tray
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DC to DC charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Battery switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053HQ88S...ding=UTF8&th=1
Battery monitor
Trimetric 2030RV Battery System Monitor
Battery charger
PD9160AL 60 Amp, 12 volt, Lithium Converter/Charger
Terminal lugs
https://www.ebay.com/str/SELTERM/
Crimper
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...rminal+Crimper
Wire cutter
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...-cutters/25187
Hole saw
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...-pc-68115.html
Toggle switches
Heavy Duty Toggle Switches On Pollak
Battery
https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop...cycle-battery/
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:58 PM   #32
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Just passed the smoke test for the DC to DC charger from the alternator to the lithium battery. Both batteries now charge when driving.

I must have used 60ft of 6 gauge welding cable because that is what I ordered and it is all gone. Would never have guessed it would take that much.

Working on a B is such a pain it will take a while to get my neck and back working again. The contortions you have to go through to get things done in the limited space take a while to straighten out. Job complete.

I did add a 300 watt pure sign wave inverter but did not integrate it into the house system.
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