2022 Thor Rize 18M (same as Scope) Review with Pitchers!

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by booster

A 1000 watt microwave uses much more than that on input side, probably 1200+ watts while running and much more than that starting. A 1500 watt Samlex pure sine wave inverter was just barely enough to run the 700 watt Dometic microwave we have. You would need at least 2000 watts, maybe 2500 watts to run a 1000 watt microwave.

I know... I was referring to the actual wattage drawn by the microwave. I am not sure what 'they' call it, maybe a 650W or 800W or what, but it uses around 1080W when warming a cup of water, according to the display of the power station.

In other words, you need something capable of about 1000W to run the microwave in (my) 22 Rize.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Urlauber

I know... I was referring to the actual wattage drawn by the microwave. I am not sure what 'they' call it, maybe a 650W or 800W or what, but it uses around 1080W when warming a cup of water, according to the display of the power station.

In other words, you need something capable of about 1000W to run the microwave in (my) 22 Rize.

Have you watched the wattage/amps when you first push the start button. That is usually much higher than running. Our 700 would flash higher than the 1500 watt continuous rating for the Samlex we had, but the short term overload capacity of the inverter was enough to cover it for the amount of time it lasted. Other inverters may or may not have as much overcapacity or time for it and could have issues. It gets real spotty when you are hanging right on the edge.


How big is the inverter in power station you were using? Pure sine wave?

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by booster

Have you watched the wattage/amps when you first push the start button. That is usually much higher than running. Our 700 would flash higher than the 1500 watt continuous rating for the Samlex we had, but the short term overload capacity of the inverter was enough to cover it for the amount of time it lasted. Other inverters may or may not have as much overcapacity or time for it and could have issues. It gets real spotty when you are hanging right on the edge.

I did not see it spike - I understand there is some sort of spike, but the power station display may be a bit slow to update or show spikes. It is not an Amp meter.

Originally Posted by booster

How big is the inverter in power station you were using? Pure sine wave?

Yes, it offers pure sine and also handles surges of up to 2000W.
Very similar specs to the one in the camper which is a WF-5110RS (pure sine with a THD of less than 3%, also handles surges of up to 2000W).

One day I'll just plug it in and see what happens.

[GeorgeRa]

I run my Daewoo 650W (rated @ 950W input power) runs OK from the Magnum MMS 1000W.

[booster]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

I run my Daewoo 650W (rated @ 950W input power) runs OK from the Magnum MMS 1000W.

That one has a 1750 max surge so good reserve for starting.

[Urlauber]

I decided to just remove the MW as I don't use it enough. Reduced the weight, and got a large cabinet for other storage.

Now to DIY a good-looking, wife-approved door for it.

[Urlauber]

Figured it would be fun to post an updated list of things I have done for fixes/repairs/improvements.

• Table connector ripped out on the bottom - I put some plywood in the compartment behind it to give the screws something to hold. Still very wobbly, not sure what they were thinking. Removed the table as we don't use it much and it was just in the way.
• Bathroom sliding doors adjustments to keep them in their tracks, also added some stops on the bottom of the smaller one to keep it from flopping around.
• Shower liner popped out of its track on the driver side - fixed with some duct tape. Dealer did not want to touch it.
• Shower curtain track screws lose - fixed with some Super Glue.
• Using the shower leads to water getting underneath the bottom (where the Thetford is), wetting the OSB board underneath which can't be good. Added a bunch of siliconed plastic parts to channel the runoff away from the wood.
• Faucet in bathroom was very stiff, so much that I feared someone would just rip it out. Took it apart and put it back together and now it moves very smoooothly.
• Stuff in the bathroom mirror cabinet keeps falling out. So I've pulled some rubber bands across which help to hold the bottles in place.
• One of the Promaster rear clearance lights fell off... epoxied it back on. Also glued peeling wallpaper in the storage cabinets.
• Zip-tied some of the cables and hoses that were hanging down underneath the van.
• One of the coach battery wires was pointing downwards and got snagged on stuff due to the insufficient clearance - loosened and pointed upwards.
• Some of the screws securing the awning to the roof were lose. Tightened. Also added some silicone to gaps around the roof appliances. Not sure if necessary but I like silicone, so...
• To automate cooling, I added a thermo controller to the fan, so now it turns on automatically when the temps go over a certain threshold.
• Refrigerator: Freezer door is supposed to stay up via a magnet. I feared that someone (like me) would try to close the fridge door while the freezer was still open, ruining the gaskets and breaking the door in the process. Glued in a little sponge cube that keeps the door from sticking on top.
• There is a drain valve on the bottom of the freshwater tank. To facilitate draining the water between trips, I used a length of plastic pipe with two notches that just-so fit over the valve handle. That pipe goes up to the plywood cover of the compartment, and has a screw across on top. Cut a hole into the wood cover, and with some more plastic pipe, fabricated a key that fits into the pipe through the hole, and allows me to open/close the drain valve without having to unscrew the cover. Whew. Picture would be worth ~1000 words.
• They did some welding/cutting on top leading to metal chips embedded in the paint, which started to rust. Cleaned, painted, and clear covered those.
• There are some places which squeak, added foam and stuff between those surfaces to quiet them down.
• Siliconed plastic strip to back of kitchen counter to prevent water spills running down into electronics and wires underneath. Silicone bead added on the right to keep water out of gap.
• There is a hole in the bottom through which rodents and dust can come in. It's in the compartment underneath the sink. Removed drawers, covered it with some chicken wire to discourage critters, and some coarse textile to keep most of the dust out, while still allowing air to enter when the fan is running on top.
• Behind the inside cover of the wardrobe, where the water filter is, some of the wires were not insulated. Fixed those to prevent sparking and stuff.
• Added a lock to the drain-hose compartment since I read that it tends to open up while on the road and lose the hose.
• Added a locking gas cap to reduce the chance that some clown fills my tank with water.
• One of the first and best things I did was to add carpets/runners/rugs to the isle and the area in front of the fridge. Especially in the cold season, if you take off your shoes inside, the vinyl flooring is very cold, hard, and unpleasant. This also makes it really easy to clean, just pull out the carpets and smack them around a bit.
• Added an electronic rear-view mirror. Provides a much better view. The built-in backup camera is just really bad, works to back up, but it is pointed down, and very low-res and just not good to use as a regular mirror.
• Added some strong Neodymium magnet to keep the mirror cabinet closed during drive. Still two settings with one being easier to open.
• Front rubber flap falling off - zip-tied/screwed back on
• Glued metal magnet connector on bathroom mirror - moving and may be falling. Silicone!
• Integrated Jupitek S1200 Power Station via 3way switch - charge, off, or run the camper
• Added switch to disconnect BMPro when Main Switch is on (to save the tablet battery from overcharging)
• Added some RTV dots around stove top to reduce noise
• Overhead cabinet door hinge ripped out… moved hinge and added some wood glue to all screws going into the frames
• Insulated PEX pipes at water pump to reduce noise. Don't think it makes a difference.
• Stove grid rubber grommets keep getting pulled out and lost - glued in place with some RTV silicone
• Glued T-Level to kitchen cabinet to evaluate needs for leveling blocks
• Glued Mirror Tiles to Kitchen side
• Siliconed bathroom sink drain gap to reduce leaks
• 3/4in freshwater tank drain connector to keep battery dry
• Added switch to disconnect Solar Panel from SCC and use its output to recharge the 1220Wh Power Station directly.
• Refrigerator: Freezer door is supposed to stay up via a magnet. Screwed in hinge which hangs down when door is opened and prevents freezer door magnet from engaging, unless the hinge is folded up.
• Solar panel brackets vibrated their way out of the roof sealant. Tightened up the connections and covered with some silicone. Considering to clean the tar stuff off and replace with butyl rubber seal and Eternabond.
• To reduce shaking and risk of it falling down, removed loose screw from over-stove cabinet, replaced with longer/fatter one, added another screw in the center.
• Removed microwave to reduce weight and gain more storage space.
• Added anti-slip bottom and plastic tiles backsplash to Microwave cabinet
• Added door with soft-close hinges to (former Microwave) cabinet
• Fridge fan (Costech 74cfm 35db) getting super noisy - replaced with Enermax Marathon (Enlobal/Maglev) fan 44cfm 17db

Some of these may be a bit cryptic and easier to understand with pictures, let me know if you want me to dive deeper into any of them.

[JuancaD]

Hi,
This is exactly what my wife and I are looking for, small and compact and yet with all the commodities for short term travel.
How do you like your van so far? Will you Buy it again?
We saw a 2022 used for sale with 7k miles for $66K, I though it's a good price but I keep reading all the negative reviews and comments so I not sure what to do.
I know there always be issues and I am handy with tools so I can tackle minor mechanical problems.
I will appreciate your comments.
Thanks

[mumkin]

Probably the biggest problem with the Thor Rize is the word "thor" as their quality control leaves a great deal to be desired... as shown in many of the fixes that Urlauber posted above. If you are looking for a rig on the 17' Promaster, you might also want to look at the Winnebago Pocket.

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by JuancaD

How do you like your van so far? Will you Buy it again?
We saw a 2022 used for sale with 7k miles for $66K, I though it's a good price but I keep reading all the negative reviews and comments so I not sure what to do.

A lot of folks go into an RV purchase with the expectation to buy a somewhat enhanced, fancy car, and then are disappointed when they get a house on wheels that is constantly shaken up by every pothole they run over. If you adjust your expectations it greatly diminishes remorse and the need for negative feedback or generalization.

In my experience, Thor has been very responsive to inquiries and issues. Some of the problems are with components from other manufacturers ("Carefree" awning, Water pump, etc) and they are the ones to contact. Some issues have been addressed via recalls which can be annoying, especially if you are far away from a dealership. Closer located dealers often don't service vehicles not purchased there (for recalls and warranty repairs).

That said, the Rize closely matches our needs and yes, if it would fall into the ocean we'd buy another one. We paid significantly more than what you mentioned, so I think it is a good deal. Assuming it has solar panel etc. If you're somewhat handy with electric, plumbing, and have some common sense, you may also enjoy it.

There are a few drawbacks. Most are obvious when you look at the floor plan. If there are two peeps, the sofa-bed needs to be assembled and taken down daily. For example.
The biggest issue for me is the (lack of) ground clearance. You have to drive accordingly. The flipside is that by moving things underneath there's more room for stuff inside.

The Solis wasn't an option for us, but since our purchase a few more models have come out so we would need to look again.

[JuancaD]

Originally Posted by Urlauber

A lot of folks go into an RV purchase with the expectation to buy a somewhat enhanced, fancy car, and then are disappointed when they get a house on wheels that is constantly shaken up by every pothole they run over. If you adjust your expectations it greatly diminishes remorse and the need for negative feedback or generalization.

In my experience, Thor has been very responsive to inquiries and issues. Some of the problems are with components from other manufacturers ("Carefree" awning, Water pump, etc) and they are the ones to contact. Some issues have been addressed via recalls which can be annoying, especially if you are far away from a dealership. Closer located dealers often don't service vehicles not purchased there (for recalls and warranty repairs).

That said, the Rize closely matches our needs and yes, if it would fall into the ocean we'd buy another one. We paid significantly more than what you mentioned, so I think it is a good deal. Assuming it has solar panel etc. If you're somewhat handy with electric, plumbing, and have some common sense, you may also enjoy it.

There are a few drawbacks. Most are obvious when you look at the floor plan. If there are two peeps, the sofa-bed needs to be assembled and taken down daily. For example.
The biggest issue for me is the (lack of) ground clearance. You have to drive accordingly. The flipside is that by moving things underneath there's more room for stuff inside.

The Solis wasn't an option for us, but since our purchase a few more models have come out so we would need to look again.

Thank you for your response.
I looked at the Winnebago Pocket but having no bathroom is a deal breaker, that's why I like the Scope, especially with the bathroom in the back that free up space up front and gives a more open floor plan. Like you said there will always be issues no matter what brand do you buy. I'll be ok with up to 19' coach but the ones I seen so far do not have a rear bath. I liked the Roadtreck Agile ss but the back sofa bounces so much during a ride that is basically useless to bring guests along for a day.
That's why I signed up to this forum, to get the owner's perspective, something that you don't always get on the You Tube dealers reviews.

[JuancaD]

Originally Posted by Urlauber

Figured it would be fun to post an updated list of things I have done for fixes/repairs/improvements.

• Table connector ripped out on the bottom - I put some plywood in the compartment behind it to give the screws something to hold. Still very wobbly, not sure what they were thinking. Removed the table as we don't use it much and it was just in the way.
• Bathroom sliding doors adjustments to keep them in their tracks, also added some stops on the bottom of the smaller one to keep it from flopping around.
• Shower liner popped out of its track on the driver side - fixed with some duct tape. Dealer did not want to touch it.
• Shower curtain track screws lose - fixed with some Super Glue.
• Using the shower leads to water getting underneath the bottom (where the Thetford is), wetting the OSB board underneath which can't be good. Added a bunch of siliconed plastic parts to channel the runoff away from the wood.
• Faucet in bathroom was very stiff, so much that I feared someone would just rip it out. Took it apart and put it back together and now it moves very smoooothly.
• Stuff in the bathroom mirror cabinet keeps falling out. So I've pulled some rubber bands across which help to hold the bottles in place.
• One of the Promaster rear clearance lights fell off... epoxied it back on. Also glued peeling wallpaper in the storage cabinets.
• Zip-tied some of the cables and hoses that were hanging down underneath the van.
• One of the coach battery wires was pointing downwards and got snagged on stuff due to the insufficient clearance - loosened and pointed upwards.
• Some of the screws securing the awning to the roof were lose. Tightened. Also added some silicone to gaps around the roof appliances. Not sure if necessary but I like silicone, so...
• To automate cooling, I added a thermo controller to the fan, so now it turns on automatically when the temps go over a certain threshold.
• Refrigerator: Freezer door is supposed to stay up via a magnet. I feared that someone (like me) would try to close the fridge door while the freezer was still open, ruining the gaskets and breaking the door in the process. Glued in a little sponge cube that keeps the door from sticking on top.
• There is a drain valve on the bottom of the freshwater tank. To facilitate draining the water between trips, I used a length of plastic pipe with two notches that just-so fit over the valve handle. That pipe goes up to the plywood cover of the compartment, and has a screw across on top. Cut a hole into the wood cover, and with some more plastic pipe, fabricated a key that fits into the pipe through the hole, and allows me to open/close the drain valve without having to unscrew the cover. Whew. Picture would be worth ~1000 words.
• They did some welding/cutting on top leading to metal chips embedded in the paint, which started to rust. Cleaned, painted, and clear covered those.
• There are some places which squeak, added foam and stuff between those surfaces to quiet them down.
• Siliconed plastic strip to back of kitchen counter to prevent water spills running down into electronics and wires underneath. Silicone bead added on the right to keep water out of gap.
• There is a hole in the bottom through which rodents and dust can come in. It's in the compartment underneath the sink. Removed drawers, covered it with some chicken wire to discourage critters, and some coarse textile to keep most of the dust out, while still allowing air to enter when the fan is running on top.
• Behind the inside cover of the wardrobe, where the water filter is, some of the wires were not insulated. Fixed those to prevent sparking and stuff.
• Added a lock to the drain-hose compartment since I read that it tends to open up while on the road and lose the hose.
• Added a locking gas cap to reduce the chance that some clown fills my tank with water.
• One of the first and best things I did was to add carpets/runners/rugs to the isle and the area in front of the fridge. Especially in the cold season, if you take off your shoes inside, the vinyl flooring is very cold, hard, and unpleasant. This also makes it really easy to clean, just pull out the carpets and smack them around a bit.
• Added an electronic rear-view mirror. Provides a much better view. The built-in backup camera is just really bad, works to back up, but it is pointed down, and very low-res and just not good to use as a regular mirror.
• Added some strong Neodymium magnet to keep the mirror cabinet closed during drive. Still two settings with one being easier to open.
• Front rubber flap falling off - zip-tied/screwed back on
• Glued metal magnet connector on bathroom mirror - moving and may be falling. Silicone!
• Integrated Jupitek S1200 Power Station via 3way switch - charge, off, or run the camper
• Added switch to disconnect BMPro when Main Switch is on (to save the tablet battery from overcharging)
• Added some RTV dots around stove top to reduce noise
• Overhead cabinet door hinge ripped out… moved hinge and added some wood glue to all screws going into the frames
• Insulated PEX pipes at water pump to reduce noise. Don't think it makes a difference.
• Stove grid rubber grommets keep getting pulled out and lost - glued in place with some RTV silicone
• Glued T-Level to kitchen cabinet to evaluate needs for leveling blocks
• Glued Mirror Tiles to Kitchen side
• Siliconed bathroom sink drain gap to reduce leaks
• 3/4in freshwater tank drain connector to keep battery dry
• Added switch to disconnect Solar Panel from SCC and use its output to recharge the 1220Wh Power Station directly.
• Refrigerator: Freezer door is supposed to stay up via a magnet. Screwed in hinge which hangs down when door is opened and prevents freezer door magnet from engaging, unless the hinge is folded up.
• Solar panel brackets vibrated their way out of the roof sealant. Tightened up the connections and covered with some silicone. Considering to clean the tar stuff off and replace with butyl rubber seal and Eternabond.
• To reduce shaking and risk of it falling down, removed loose screw from over-stove cabinet, replaced with longer/fatter one, added another screw in the center.
• Removed microwave to reduce weight and gain more storage space.
• Added anti-slip bottom and plastic tiles backsplash to Microwave cabinet
• Added door with soft-close hinges to (former Microwave) cabinet
• Fridge fan (Costech 74cfm 35db) getting super noisy - replaced with Enermax Marathon (Enlobal/Maglev) fan 44cfm 17db

Some of these may be a bit cryptic and easier to understand with pictures, let me know if you want me to dive deeper into any of them.

Wow, you did a lot of repairs and preventive maintenance to your unit.
Thanks for posting such a detailed information.

[JuancaD]

Originally Posted by mumkin

Finding a small RV is pretty impossible. I gave up on commercial rigs and bought the smallest Promaster that I can stand in... the 1500 that is 16 feet long... and had Colorado Campers convert it for me. It actually went very well. But I wanted to keep it simple... no plumbing or propane.

Your Rize is, of course, a clone of the Hymer/Carado Axion, that EGHNA produced with the addition of Thor "quality" (or lack thereof). Basically the cabinetry looks better inside, but avoid looking too closely. lol I pondered purchasing an Axion and pulling out the galley side stuff and expanding it more into the door space. My first rig, the GWV, was a side sofa and rear bath and it was probably my favorite for the single traveler.

With my Simplicity SRT, I had 2 Group 31s and 270w of solar, I could go indefinitely running the fan, fridge, lights, and charge electronics. Even with less solar, I would think you could do the same... with the much smaller fridge. Of course, this excludes using the AC and running a microwave.

It sounds like you are making it all work for you. Enjoy!!

I was looking a the Carado also and noticed the similarities, wonder if the quality is better than the Thor, but I was turned off by the dark cabinetry in the coach.

[JuancaD]

Originally Posted by RVclassB4me

Even if you bought a more expensive unit like an Airstream (which now is part of Warren Buffet’s RV enterprise) or a Roadtrek (now owned by a reputable French company, Ripido) you will find issues. It really depends on the RV dealership too. Plus how handi you are with fixing things.

I do agree as you move up on the food chain the quality (generally) improves.

We bought a brand new Roadtrek SS Agile last October 2021. This is built by the the new Ripido company. We use it a lot. We are currently doing a trip from SoCal to Alaska. Yes, we had issues, but nothing too serious to stop using or enjoying the RV. It’s the little things my wife and I found very annoying. Too many to list here. It’s a matter of how much you can tolerate. For us we understand that every time we drive down the road it like an earthquake of 6+ Richter scale on this condo on wheels!! Given the BIG pot holes enough to break a wheel/axle/spring near the Canadian and Alaska border…… BTW, after literally hours and hours driving with constant potholes and road constructions we knocked our front alignment totally out (I had our local Mercedes Sprinter do a 4 wheel alignment just a day before we took off). By the time I realized the alignment was knocked out…… our two front tires had severe uneven wear. Luckily Canadian Tire had two right spec tires at reasonable prices to replace in no time.

It’s also true that even if one spends more than one mil for an RV, you will still have issues. The issues will likely be more complicated and expensive for sure!! The RV dealerships and manufacturers’ motto is: We will fix it AFTER you buy it.

I was looking at the Roadtreck Agile SS, I like the better quality and floorplan, even though I prefer the bath in the back of the coach.
I found a very nice one with few miles, but when we went for a road test, we discover that the rear sofa is very bouncy, (my wife almost got sick), and that was a deal breaker since we wanted to use that seat to bring family and friends for day trips. Seem like a common issue with those vans.

[mumkin]

Originally Posted by JuancaD

I was looking a the Carado also and noticed the similarities, wonder if the quality is better than the Thor, but I was turned off by the dark cabinetry in the coach.

Yes... the cabinetry in the two EGHNA Carado models was horridly cheap and ugly... reflected in the price at the time. Since Thor bought EGHNA - Hymer half... the Carado models went with the sale. I haven't really compared the two, but I suspect that there is little difference in the quality. I'm not sure if staples were used rather than screws. That makes a difference in how things hold up.

[mumkin]

Originally Posted by JuancaD

I was looking at the Roadtreck Agile SS, I like the better quality and floorplan, even though I prefer the bath in the back of the coach.
I found a very nice one with few miles, but when we went for a road test, we discover that the rear sofa is very bouncy, (my wife almost got sick), and that was a deal breaker since we wanted to use that seat to bring family and friends for day trips. Seem like a common issue with those vans.

You need to keep in mind that these van were built to be work vans... and your local plumber or electrician... or Amazon delivery doesn't care if the rear is bouncy. They are not designed to have passengers. You will find this with any Sprinter or Promaster... and likely also the Transit. If you wish to spend the extra money, you can improve the rear suspension... or only put kids back there who love carnival rides. lol

[JuancaD]

You are right on that! Funny thing is that of all the You Tube reviews I have seen, nobody bothered to mention than. I been looking online if there is a fix for that with out much luck. I contacted an RV shop and they quote me between 7 to 15K to "upgrade the suspension". I like the bed on the back and also you can seat during the day. I will look for a van with the seats behind the driver's seat since this seems to be the best option when bringing guests along. I like the Scope open floor plan a lot also.
I read that the pleasure way van doesn't have this problem according to somebody's posting, not sure if it's true though.

[mumkin]

The reality is that the vast majority of B owners don't carry extra passengers, so they and the salesmen may not even know about the bouncy ride in the rear. And yes, the people who fixed it mentioned that it is expensive.

That little front dinette is really the best option to avoid the bounce... and better seat belt/harness set-ups with head support. That said, check them out in person. They tend to require that the people are smaller... not sure how comfortable it would be for two adults. Two kids, or one adult and one kid, should work fine.

[JuancaD]

Originally Posted by mumkin

Yes... the cabinetry in the two EGHNA Carado models was horridly cheap and ugly... reflected in the price at the time. Since Thor bought EGHNA - Hymer half... the Carado models went with the sale. I haven't really compared the two, but I suspect that there is little difference in the quality. I'm not sure if staples were used rather than screws. That makes a difference in how things hold up.

I see why the similar floor plan on the Scope, too bad the quality did not improve.

[JuancaD]

I went to the RV dealer in Southern CA and saw the new Solis Pocket 36B.
I was really impressed of the job they did with it! It now has a wet bath in the back like the Scope and the toilet can also be removed if you need more space on the shower. Its fully battery supported, no generator, 12v A/C, great clearance since the gas, generator and water are on the couch itself.
The seats that can be converted in different positions and has two seat belts with three point attachment.
So many extras and the quality seems very good.
But the price went up substantially, 120K!
Will still make sense to get the Scope for much less and put on with all the little quality issues?