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05-12-2016, 01:49 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: california
Posts: 13
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Dometic/propane turns off when underway
When running on propane, the Dometic fridge on my 04 170 keeps turning itself off when the van is underway (I understand the official word is to use DC underway). It runs fine when the van is stopped.
At first I thought that this might be related to wind blowing out the pilot light, but this happens even when there is very little wind.
Reading though the forums, I see recommendations for similar problems to check/clean the burner tube and perhaps replace the thermocouple.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks, Jim
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05-12-2016, 01:51 AM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,410
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Those are good recommendations, clean, check pressure, etc.
Blowing out while underway is very common and the motion gives plenty of wind to do it.
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05-12-2016, 02:26 AM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: california
Posts: 13
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Thanks. This didn't happen with my last RV that had the same fridge (04 Pleasure Way), so something is clearly amiss.
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05-12-2016, 02:42 AM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ID AZ
Posts: 867
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Is the refrigerator on the same side of the coach as it was on your previous one?
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata 250 Touring Sedan
"Il Travato Rosso"
2015 Travato 59g
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05-12-2016, 02:52 AM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: california
Posts: 13
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Yes it is. Pleasure Way excel and RT 170.
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05-12-2016, 04:05 AM
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#6
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ID AZ
Posts: 867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heatlamp
Yes it is. Pleasure Way excel and RT 170.
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Well, my reason for asking was that depending on which side of the coach the fridge is on, the burner might be less in the line of wind entering the vent. On my Class C, the fridge was on the pass. side and the burner was tucked up well out of the wind. On my Travato, the fridge is on the driver side and the flame is open to all the air that comes rushing in the vent.
If you've made sure that the flame is strong, you might consider what I did here: LINKY
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata 250 Touring Sedan
"Il Travato Rosso"
2015 Travato 59g
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05-12-2016, 01:24 PM
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#7
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,410
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A Eric says, even which side of the van it is on can make a difference, and definitely there are differences between brands of class B. If the 04 170 has the same configuration of the vents as our 07 190 did, which I think it does, there will be 3 vents. An upper built into the window frame bottom, the lower removable vent, and a screened vent to underneath the van. Even things like the position of the side mirror or having the window open or closed can make a difference in airflow.
Lots of folks, with lots of different models, including the Chevy 170s, have had issues with blowout. Maybe half of them get significantly better after cleaning the burner and pilot, and adjusting the propane pressure to the high end of spec. For the rest, the solution that seems to work the best is some sort of airflow change, like Eric has done. Some have had good success with small spoilers at the lower vent edges, either front or rear. I would guess most everyone with a propane frig would have it blow out in extreme crosswinds, I know we did.
Best solution is to drive with on DC, but with some foolproof way to remember to turn it back to propane if you stop for more than a short time. With a single battery, the 170 will not run long on DC without the engine running.
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05-12-2016, 01:32 PM
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#8
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ID AZ
Posts: 867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster
...
Best solution is to drive with on DC, but with some foolproof way to remember to turn it back to propane if you stop for more than a short time. With a single battery, the 170 will not run long on DC without the engine running.
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That's the part I need to work on. Something simple that requires no input from me...like a seatbelt chime.
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata 250 Touring Sedan
"Il Travato Rosso"
2015 Travato 59g
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05-12-2016, 01:47 PM
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#9
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Arizona, Tempe
Posts: 1,697
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That's the part I need to work on. Something simple that requires no input from me...like a seatbelt chime.
That is easy. Put a 30 amp relay in the line to the DC heating element controlled by the center tap on the isolator. (Alternator output) When the engine isn't running the DC is off.
A wireless temperture gizmo will tell you when you foirget to turn the propane on.
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05-12-2016, 01:59 PM
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#10
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ID AZ
Posts: 867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbn7hj
That is easy. Put a 30 amp relay in the line to the DC heating element controlled by the center tap on the isolator. (Alternator output) When the engine isn't running the DC is off.
A wireless temperture gizmo will tell you when you foirget to turn the propane on.
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I missed that day in school when they talked about relays and stuff so those kind of things are difficult for me. I'll have to do some reading to educate myself.
[Hijack] There's another "thingy" I want to design. If you turn on the propane solenoid in the Travato and then turn it off, there will be enough propane in the lines to run the fridge for over an hour. I'd like to design a timer circuit that would turn the propane on every 1/2 hour for 1 second instead of leaving the solenoid on all the time because the solenoid draws .7 amps per hour and I think my timer could draw considerably less. [/hijack]
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata 250 Touring Sedan
"Il Travato Rosso"
2015 Travato 59g
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05-12-2016, 05:37 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric1514
[Hijack] There's another "thingy" I want to design. If you turn on the propane solenoid in the Travato and then turn it off, there will be enough propane in the lines to run the fridge for over an hour. I'd like to design a timer circuit that would turn the propane on every 1/2 hour for 1 second instead of leaving the solenoid on all the time because the solenoid draws .7 amps per hour and I think my timer could draw considerably less. [/hijack]
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Now THAT's an interesting and novel proposal for solving the infamous solenoid-amp-sucking problem. You could also put a small tank downstream of the solenoid to serve as an accumulator. This would give you control of the run time/refresh interval.
I've moved on to a compressor fridge, but if I still had propane, I would definitely consider doing this. You can get the timer you need on eBay for like 6 bucks, complete with relay.
__________________
Now: 2022 Fully-custom buildout (Ford Transit EcoBoost AWD)
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
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05-13-2016, 01:12 AM
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#12
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ID AZ
Posts: 867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti
...You can get the timer you need on eBay for like 6 bucks, complete with relay.
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If you get the time, can you link a timer thingy on eBay for me? I have no idea what I should be searching for. I can start my education into this from there.
Thanks
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata 250 Touring Sedan
"Il Travato Rosso"
2015 Travato 59g
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05-13-2016, 01:35 AM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric1514
If you get the time, can you link a timer thingy on eBay for me? I have no idea what I should be searching for. I can start my education into this from there.
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Here's one, chosen more-or-less randomly:
DC 5V 12V Multifunction Self Lock Relay PLC Cycle Timer Module Delay Time Switch | eBay
That link won't work for long, so here's an image:
timer1.jpg
You can find similar stuff on Amazon.
__________________
Now: 2022 Fully-custom buildout (Ford Transit EcoBoost AWD)
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
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