RT Agile fresh water tanks

[jrfaris]

I posted this on the RT International list but did not receive a helpful response.

Does anyone have experience with the connection between the Agile SS fresh water tanks? There is a small tank in the base of the passenger seat and a larger tank beneath the flooring. There is no valve between the tanks so the upper tanks fills and empties automatically through the lower tank. We have a slow leak that occurs when the upper tank is full and stops when the the upper tank is empty so I believe it's source is the connecting tubing or fittings. I'm not sure whether to try to access the connection through the base of the passenger seat or whether it's necessary to drop the lower tank to get to the connections area.

I'm hoping someone may have some experience with removing the front passanger seat and perhaps the seat base or inner tank. I don't see how to access the connection otherwise since I'd rather not drop the larger lower FW tank. I assume the connection tubing must pass through the Sprinter floor at some location and connect to either the top or side of the lower tank.
Thanks for your interest and any help you can provide.

Rich Faris
2015 RT Agile SS

 

[GeorgeRad]

Perhaps to access the water connection you need to:
1. Remove the seat – 4 bolts, disconnect the battery before to disconnect the air bag cable
2. If you have a swivel remove it – 4 bolts - hopefully you should see connection then.
3. Remove the seat base - 4 bolts or drop the bottom tank. The attached picture is from my 2013 Sprinter, yours is likely different.

 

[Aggie-ClassB]

On my 2011 SS Ideal that is quite likely the same configuration I had to remove the lower fresh water tank so MB could replace my DEF pump. I was able to access the connector coupling clamps from below. I doubt the connector can be accessed from above. There was very little room for my hands to work in the area. RT obviously had the tanks molded to fit this specific area and made them as large as absolutely possible to maximize water holing capacity. Removal of the sliding step and grey / black tank may be necessary before removal of fresh tank - fun ! After running RV up on blocks , about 20 inches, it only took about 2 hours to remove the step and both tanks. THEN, it only took most of 2 days to re-attach all the tanks, content sensor level wires, connector clamps, support structures, exhaust shield and step. After all of this I better understand why these rigs are so expensive, everything is designed and built to use 99% of the space available and fit tightly leaving no waste space and barely enough space for tools / hands to service them.

 

[jrfaris]

On my 2011 SS Ideal that is quite likely the same configuration I had to remove the lower fresh water tank so MB could replace my DEF pump. I was able to access the connector coupling clamps from below. I doubt the connector can be accessed from above.

Could you describe the connection for me? What size and length of tubing and what type of connectors and clamps. Also, I'm starting to think the leak could possibly be from the gravity fill tubing as well (I assume contains water when the upper tank has water in it). I assume you had to deal with that as well so any info the tubing and connections for that would be appreciated as well.
Thanks for your reply,
Rich

 

[Aggie-ClassB]

It’s been 2 yrs since, I didn’t take any phots or notes, only memories of working in cramped space above my head while lying on gravel in alley.
If it was unusual I think I might remember but not so I believe the connector was just a standard length (6 to 10 inches ?) of flexible hose with standard hose clamp that is tightened with screwdriver or small socket driver. I may have, likely, cut the connector hose with a knife for quick removal and possibly replaced the hose with a length bought at hardware store.
I don’t recall any detail of the upper tank. I don’t believe I could see it from below. I would guess now that there was only the connector hose extending through the floor or possibly just the “connector nipple” exposed that I could connect the lower tank to. If as you suspect, the leak is from the gravity fill hose, that is a possibility too. Due to the layout of the fill port on the door post, the fill hose must connect to the tank (below the seat) at or below floor level, thus at bottom of the tank.
Regardless of exactly where the leak is I suspect you will have to either remove the seat supports as someone explained or the lower tank, both significant effort.

I do remember the re-installation included re-attaching individual electrical wires to each of the three or four sensors for 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 full on the fresh and black or grey tanks I had to remove. These sensors didn’t, before or after, work well. I’ve since seen a different type of sensor system that seems like an improvement. It is a strip of sensor tape you glue to the outside of the tank and somehow connects to a monitor panel located conveniently inside the RV. It’s been awhile since I’ve seen / thought about that as well but it’s something I’d look up and probably use instead of the original system.
The tank removal / replace process didn’t require any special tools except maybe a socket set extension. Making a ramp about 20 to 24 inches high to raise the front of the van and maybe 8 inches for rear was my biggest scrounging need. The fresh tank shape is such that this clearance was needed to lower it for removal. You may not need to fully remove it and thus be OK with a bit lower ramp but you still need space for you body to move around the van.
Seems like a major effort to diagnose and hopefully resolve the problem but ...
Good Luck !

 

[Aggie-ClassB]

Just checked for the new level sensor system.
SeeLevel by Garnet
Youtube videos explain and show how to install.