Macerator question for Roadtrek owners

[Atlee]

For long time owners of Roadtreks that have the macerator dump systems, is the macerator prone to have problem?

Does it dump well?

If the macerator should break just as the dump was beginning, is there a way to remove the macerator without the black tank content running all over creation?

Is there a by pass available around the macerator?

I'm beginning to think about going back to my roots from my current truck and trailer. I began RVing in a Roadtrek 190 Independent. The macerator on the newer Roadtreks has me concerned.

 

[peteco]

You will find a wide range of experiences. Many complaints about problems. But people that don't have problems usually don't post that their experience has been good. I may jinx myself here, but I am on my original macerator in my 2006 210P. Never a problem.

I have a replacement impeller that I should put in, and may do this spring. I also have a bypass system ready to install when I do the impeller.

My suggestion: install a bypass system if there is not one. Search for booster on this site as he describes his system well.

 

[avanti]

I've had three macerators in 3 vans over 20 years and never a macerator failure. I strongly suspect that people who have problems let them sit all winter full of water instead of antifreeze. ����*

 

[peteco]

I've had three macerators in 3 vans over 20 years and never a macerator failure. I strongly suspect that people who have problems let them sit all winter full of water instead of antifreeze. ����*

Only a few times have I put antifreeze in over the winter. I put an engine block heater on the macerator metal protection shield to keep the water from freezing. That's only in November-December before we take off for warmer weather over the winter.

That said, RV antifreeze is a good idea as it may be good for the impeller and other seals in addition to freeze protection. I put RV antifreeze in my pressure washer pump when it is going to sit unused for several months. I also put RV antifreeze in the RV water pump, though sometimes I put a lamp over the pump to keep it warm in freezing weather instead.

 

[booster]

As Peteco said we have seen the gamut of problems/no problems/problems fixed/trip saving modification on this forum.



These topics are very well covered in the previous discussions and are well worth the read.


If you are looking at a Roadtrek factory installed system on a Chevy, they have and inherent error in the pump mounting the can shorten the macerator life, but can be corrected fairly easily. I can't speak for the other Roadtrek van type installs as I have not seen them.


IMO, the best solution is what Peteco alluded to, fix any issues like the Roadtrek Chevies have, and install an easy to switch to manual dumping system to use if the pump fails.


The "dual" dumping systems that several of us on here have installed may, hopefully, never be needed. Ours is probably nearing 10 years old and has only be used for a yearly test of function. They have been done different ways by users but the idea is the same.



IMO, the macerator is a great thing with big downside of ruined trips that can be totally eliminated with the backup dump system.


If your dump valves don't leak, you can change a macerator pump and only have to capture what is in the piping from the valve to pump. Probably not much unless you pulled the valve before trying the pump, but still probably less than a gallon.

 

[avanti]

@Booster has it right. I should have mentioned that all my rigs have had dual-dump systems. As with Booster, none of them has ever been used, but neither have my fire extinguishers. Same logic. As a side note, with my last two vans, I carried a (not) stinky-slinky for use with the backup system. After passing both of them on unused, I finally realized that if I ever needed one, a trip to the nearest Walmart would do the trick, so this time around I am saving the space.

 

[Atlee]

Thanks to all answered back. I have read some of the other threads now.

My biggest problem with putting in a back up dump system is I'd have to hire someone to do the work. At 77, my joints just don't work as well as they used to. Crawling under a vehicle doesn't come easy any longer.

By dropping back to a Class B, I guess I'm trying to extend my time on the road as long as possible. I figure driving cross country would be easier in a 20'-22' van than driving a 20' truck pulling a 24' trailer.

Plus looking at the asking price for the used Class B's is eye opening. They are going for a premium it seems.

Currently I have a MY22 truck with 3 payments left plus a 24' trailer that's paid for.

 

[booster]

Thanks to all answered back. I have read some of the other threads now.

My biggest problem with putting in a back up dump system is I'd have to hire someone to do the work. At 77, my joints just don't work as well as they used to. Crawling under a vehicle doesn't come easy any longer.

By dropping back to a Class B, I guess I'm trying to extend my time on the road as long as possible. I figure driving cross country would be easier in a 20'-22' van than driving a 20' truck pulling a 24' trailer.

Plus looking at the asking price for the used Class B's is eye opening. They are going for a premium it seems.

Currently I have a MY22 truck with 3 payments left plus a 24' trailer that's paid for.

I hear you on the getting old stuff. I am 75 and working on the front suspension modification on our Chevy 190 by moving the lower control arm mounting location. Heavy parts and old, damaged, bodies is a tough go.


You might want to look a Roadtrek Zions starting around 2015 model year if that is within the budget. They came with dual dumping systems from the factory. I don't know of any other models that ever did or what years after that the Zions had that system.


https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5/zion-dual-dump-system-3419.html