Blowout Absorbing Mud Flap (BAM)

YO

YogiCorgi

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DISCLAIMER: The following design has never been tested and I hope it never will be. Therefore, it may or may not inhibit damage to the TM from a tire blowout. In fact, it's possible that it might increase the level of damage (one never knows without extensive testing). In any event, each individual needs to review the design and make their own decision. For me, I feel the design is based on the sound principle of energy-absorbing crumple zones. I also wanted the design to be lightweight.

To create the Blowout-Absorbing Mud Flap (BAM), I purchased the following items:

One eight-foot long aluminum square tubing (the sides are one inch)
One 2 x 1 foot flat piece of diamond-plated aluminum
Sixteen galvanized bolts, nuts, and lock washers
Thirty two small and sixteen large galvanized washers (all purchased at Lowes)
One large heavy-duty truck mud flap (auto-parts store)

To make a set of BAMs:
Cut the eight-foot aluminum square tubing into eight one foot long sections.
Cut the flat piece of diamond plate into two one foot square sections.
Cut the truck mud flap to fit the diamond plate with an ample amount hanging down from the bottom of the diamond plate (see pictures)
Each BAM is assembled using four square sections of tubing (one foot long) and bolted to the mud flap, TM frame, and diamond plate using the hardware (see pictures)

You now have a set of mud flaps that should absorb a fair amount of energy if the tire blows. In theory, the aluminum square tubes/diamond plate will crumple and the washers will rip through the rubber to dissipate a significant amount of the energy. In mean the time, they will help to keep the TM clean. Well, that's the theory anyway.:rolleyes:
 

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Great work. You know, if you used galvanized steel tubing instead of aluminum, the whole structure may stay attached and offer better protection. You don't just want to protect against the initial blowout. What causes damage is the repeated thrashing of the delaminated tread up against the plumbing or underside of the TM -- one thrashing for every revolution, and there are alot!

I like your design. Thanks for posting!

Dave
 
Great work. You know, if you used galvanized steel tubing instead of aluminum, the whole structure may stay attached and offer better protection. You don't just want to protect against the initial blowout. What causes damage is the repeated thrashing of the delaminated tread up against the plumbing or underside of the TM -- one thrashing for every revolution, and there are alot!

I like your design. Thanks for posting!

Dave

Thanks Dave, I'm hoping that this lightweight design will do just that. Of course, without testing, I just don't know what's the best answer is. Also, one must consider that steel will not crumple as easily as aluminum, which would send the energy into the TM frame (where the mud flap is attached)...possibly bending the frame. Therefore, for me, aluminum is still the best option when considering weight, protection, and the unforeseen consequences of using stronger material. Too bad we don't have a budget for testing.:confused:
 
Like your design! I think it will offer a much greater degree of protection than just a mudflap.


Tim
 
Great idea. I am thinking a galvanized frame with the aluminum diamond plate would add strength yet the aluminum plate would offer energy absorption. If the blowout hit the plate some of the energy would be absorbed. Keep the two separated with the rubber mat and there should little galvanic corrosion.

As soon as I recover from back surgery I am going to take a look at this.
 
Looks good to me!

Good idea. I like the energy absorbing use of aluminum. If it ever gets used, and I hope it does not, share with us how it did? Thanks!
 
I'm wondering if the top part (stationary alum frame) may be a problem as it may cause damage because there is no give and may break away. I think a mud flap should have some give and divert the debris as close to the ground as possible. Just a thought.

Koz
 
Tire Blowout Report

Tire-Blowout Report: :eek:

Well, last week, on the way back home from the Everglades, my luck ran out. I became a member of the tire-blowout club. When I purchased my "new" 2009 3124KS in November of 2010 it had Goodyear Marathon tires dated 22 Oct 2007 (so the tires were already three years old). In any event, I was hoping they would last 4.5 years, 10,500 miles, and the completion of this trip. With only 280 miles to go, BAM.

I was in the right lane on I75 doing about 63 mph with lots of room to pull over. Yes, I check tire pressure frequently. Yes, I keep the camper under its load limit. Yes, I keep my rig at or below 65 mph. Yes, I have a tire monitoring system, but I still had a violent blowout. :new_Eyecr The tire lost air so fast and fell to the road with such force it bent the rim badly. The tire exploded from one side of the rim to the other and by the time I got stopped there was only a thin layer of ply left anywhere on the tire. The noise was terrible all the way to the stopping point. Oh well, thanks to the Blowout Adsorbing Mudflap (disclosed above), the plumbing and the rest of the Trailmanor suffered only minor damage and was easily repaired.

I now have Maxxis Load E tires with 75 psi set. Some may think that's too high, but my camper's gross allowable weight is 4550 and I run at 4350 (yes, I had it weighed at a certified scale). If the ride turns out to be too hard, I'll reduce the psi to 70. I'll let you know the outcome over time.

As for the damage, here's the list and what I did to fix it (with pictures) :D

The rim was damaged beyond repair…had to be replace…cost $88

The edge of the plastic wheel well had some puncture wounds. I filled and reinforced the edges with sealant and RV aluminum roofing material.

One of the T's on the T-handle for the plumbing broken off. Fortunately, it was a clean break with no other damage, but it got me to thinking. Since the Ts provided a method for the tread to get caught on and cause possible problems in the future, I went ahead and cut all the unnecessary portion of the T handles off...my valves operate just fine without the top portion of the handles...they just give tire debris more stuff to get caught on as it departs.

Having all the "fresh" water drain valves in the vertical position may have prevented damage as well.

Punctured the screen covering the bathroom fan vent...an easy repair with no-see-ums screen.

And a few dents and scratches requiring no repair.

Camper is back on Vacation Alert Status with no degrades…in fact, stronger than it was. :new_bdays

End of Report
 

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Nice, if disturbing report. Especially since I was hoping for 5 years on my Marathons.

What pressure were you maintaining your Marathons at?
 
YogiCorgi -

I'm really glad to have your report. I think I was among the first to mount mudflaps, back in '06, but I never knew if they would actually help. You've answered that.

Regarding your incident, I have one question, and I certainly don't mean to detract from your approach or your efforts to add the mud flaps. I was surprised to hear that a T-handle on the sewer valve stack was damaged. When I look at your pictures in the first post, it looks to me like the aluminum frame, if it folded straight back, could reach the T-handle. Do you think it is possible that the aluminum frame, while it was folding back, absorbing energy, disintegrating, and protecting the plumbing, also contributed to the damage, as Pitbull suggested in post #8 above?

When I mounted my mud flaps, I didn't use a frame. I purposely made the flap long enough to cover the T-handle if it got pushed back that far, hoping to protect that handle. But I have never had a chance to check the theory - meaning that I haven't had a catastrophic blowout on the road side since then.

My flaps http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4975

Bill
 
Thanks Bill...no distraction here...without lots of testing one never knows what the best combination is. But for the record, the aluminum frame did not bend back much or depart during the blow out. In fact, it was only slightly bent (it might have moved aft 1/4 inch) and the heavy-duty rubber was only slightly disfigured in the bolts. Nevertheless, the aluminum/rubber combination absorbed a tremendous amount of energy during the entire process and suffered almost no damage...it was easy to reset and re-tighten the bolts. The Trailmanor frame, where the aluminum is attached, suffered no damage as well. It performed just as I was hoping for. I'm of the opinion the aluminum frame saved my plumbing because it prevented the tread from beating the plumbing to death prior to breaking free. If all I had was a rubber mud flap, I'm afraid the rotating tread would have easily overpowered such a device and destroyed my plumbing and the underside. During each rotation, I feel the aluminum frame effectively pulled the separating tread back inside the wheel well and away from the plumbing...greatly reducing my risk of damage.
 
That is really good input, YogiCorgi. Thanks for your thoughtful answer, and I commend you on your inventiveness. I had assumed that the frame would fold back and/or disintegrate as part of its function. But if it held up and supported the rubber, you are almost certainly right about its high level of effectiveness. Now I may have to rethink mine ...

During each rotation, I feel the aluminum frame effectively pulled the separating tread back inside the wheel well and away from the plumbing...greatly reducing my risk of damage.
I'm not sure about the wisdom of this effect. I would want to get the rubber chunks, at least the ones that had broken loose, out of the way as fast as possible.

Bill
 
That is really good input, YogiCorgi. Thanks for your thoughtful answer, and I commend you on your inventiveness. I had assumed that the frame would fold back and/or disintegrate as part of its function. But if it held up and supported the rubber, you are almost certainly right about its high level of effectiveness. Now I may have to rethink mine ...

I'm not sure about the wisdom of this effect. I would want to get the rubber chunks, at least the ones that had broken loose, out of the way as fast as possible.

Bill

I agree Bill, I want the rubber chunks to break off too. But when they don't, I would much prefer they get pulled back into the wheel well and away from the plumbing until they finally break off. In fact, I would argue the aluminum frame may help to break the tread up during each rotation...getting rid of the tread even faster.
 
I am sorry to hear you tested your mud flaps but it is good to know they work. It looks like it might be time to upgrade my plumbing protection. I considered reinforcing my mud flaps when I saw this idea but had not gotten around to it. I had also considered building some kind of protective cage at some point but had only added heavy duty mud flaps and tire pressure monitor so far. I am thinking the cage would offer more protection and the amount of work to build seems like it would be similar. I don’t weld so am considering the Dexion angle iron. Here is a link to the post on the cage topic.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10254

There was some discussion there about limiting clearance but it looks to me like you would only be a few inches below where the pluming is now.
 

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