Actual Weight with WDH

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On our way back from South Dakota, we stopped at a CAT Scale and weighed the rig.

Actual:
Front = 2420

Drive = 3200

Trailer = 3460

Gross = 9080

Ratings:
Front = 2865 GAWR F

Drive = 3155 GAWR R

Trailer = 4190 GVWR 3640 GAWR

GVWR = 5950

The good news is the trailer was full of fresh water, close to full on gray with a cooler full of frozen pheasants, winter clothes and will never have more weight at any time in the future.

We had to keep fresh water due to the cold weather (parks were not opening hydrants). I would not normally travel with gray but the valves were stuck. I have since learned how to remedy that situation.

The "drive" axle had three dogs (140#), tools, an extra hitch and a full propane tank. I can easily move more than 45# of weight to the trailer and by traveling without so much water (approx 450#) in the tanks we will be under the weight ratings. I will never have to travel with an extra propane tank again, another lesson learned.

Having these weights allows me to feel more at ease knowing how to distribute cargo in the future.

The WDH made a huge difference. Thanks for all the helpful information.

 

[scrubjaysnest-TMO]

looks good

Good to have another set of numbers to compare with thanks for taking the time

 

[Wavery]

On our way back from South Dakota, we stopped at a CAT Scale and weighed the rig.

Actual:
Front = 2420

Drive = 3200

Trailer = 3460

Gross = 9080

Ratings:
Front = 2865 GAWR F

Drive = 3155 GAWR R

Trailer = 3500

GVWR = 5950

The good news is the trailer was full of fresh water, close to full on gray with a cooler full of frozen pheasants, winter clothes and will never have more weight at any time in the future.

We had to keep fresh water due to the cold weather (parks were not opening hydrants). I would not normally travel with gray but the valves were stuck. I have since learned how to remedy that situation.

The "drive" axle had three dogs (140#), tools, an extra hitch and a full propane tank. I can easily move more than 45# of weight to the trailer and by traveling without so much water (approx 450#) in the tanks we will be under the weight ratings. I will never have to travel with an extra propane tank again, another lesson learned.

Having these weights allows me to feel more at ease knowing how to distribute cargo in the future.

The WDH made a huge difference. Thanks for all the helpful information.

You may want to consider tightening up that WDH a little. You are running pretty light on the front axle.

 

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WDH adjustment

You may want to consider tightening up that WDH a little. You are running pretty light on the front axle.

I would like to but the swing away does not allow it to go any tighter, also I am supposed to leave at least five (5) links free.

Any suggestions?

 

[B&T2]

Do you have an angle adjustment on your hitch? I had to adjust the tilt on mine to get the proper spring bar setting.

Tim

 

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Do you have an angle adjustment on your hitch? I had to adjust the tilt on mine to get the proper spring bar setting.

This is the type of hitch I purchased:

http://www.hitchsource.com/trunnion-style-wd-hitch-1000lb-p-16109.html

It is able to adjust both height and angle, I am guessing I should add more angle.

I followed the installation instructions, I am not against modifying the installation just want to make sure I am doing the correct modifications.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

 

[Mr. Adventure]

Honda Pilot

On our way back from South Dakota, we stopped at a CAT Scale and weighed the rig.

Actual:
Front = 2420

Drive = 3200

Trailer = 3460

Gross = 9080

Ratings:
Front = 2865 GAWR F

Drive = 3155 GAWR R

Trailer = 3500

GVWR = 5950

The good news is the trailer was full of fresh water, close to full on gray with a cooler full of frozen pheasants, winter clothes and will never have more weight at any time in the future.

We had to keep fresh water due to the cold weather (parks were not opening hydrants). I would not normally travel with gray but the valves were stuck. I have since learned how to remedy that situation.

The "drive" axle had three dogs (140#), tools, an extra hitch and a full propane tank. I can easily move more than 45# of weight to the trailer and by traveling without so much water (approx 450#) in the tanks we will be under the weight ratings. I will never have to travel with an extra propane tank again, another lesson learned.

Having these weights allows me to feel more at ease knowing how to distribute cargo in the future.

The WDH made a huge difference. Thanks for all the helpful information.

Thanks for posting your numbers. Another link tighter on the WDH would give you less in the rear and a better ride too (you can change the angle to get more purchase on the bars). But it looks very possible to be on the road still under your axle ratings and GVWR despite your heavily loaded trailer. This is all great news!

 

[B&T2]

The height and tilt adjustments do affect each other. Tilting back will also lower the ball height some, so i had to play with both settings till i got the adjustment right for mine.

I have not weighed mine yet but i did mark and measure the amount of loading drop i am getting on the TV. Front and rear loading drop is within .25in when spring bars are locked.

Tim

 

[Bill]

This is the type of hitch I purchased:

http://www.hitchsource.com/trunnion-style-wd-hitch-1000lb-p-16109.html

It is able to adjust both height and angle, I am guessing I should add more angle.

Yes, the angle is adjustable. You'll need a whopper of a wrench to turn those big silver nuts, but if you did your own install (good for you!), you already have one.

As you can see from the pictures, if you tilt the ballmount back just a little bit, it will lower the springbar tips (before hooking up the chains). If you then use the same number of links as before, it will leave the spacing between the TM frame and the springbar tips unchanged, but at the same time a tighter adjustment (more weight distribution).

Bill

 

[scrubjaysnest-TMO]

This is the type of hitch I purchased:

http://www.hitchsource.com/trunnion-style-wd-hitch-1000lb-p-16109.html

It is able to adjust both height and angle, I am guessing I should add more angle.

I followed the installation instructions, I am not against modifying the installation just want to make sure I am doing the correct modifications.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

From looking at the hitch pictures yours looks identical to mine but I can't use it as the spring bars are to short. I would be curious as to your spring length both total and from the center line of the trunnion to the center line of the u-bolt that has the chain. A few of the other members have 32" bars while mine are 30" total length

 

[Icon-KEY]

Yes, the angle is adjustable. You'll need a whopper of a wrench to turn those big silver nuts, but if you did your own install (good for you!), you already have one.

As you can see from the pictures, if you tilt the ballmount back just a little bit, it will lower the springbar tips (before hooking up the chains). If you then use the same number of links as before, it will leave the spacing between the TM frame and the springbar tips unchanged, but at the same time a tighter adjustment (more weight distribution).

Bill

Will be making this adjustment today, thank you.

 

[mtnguy]

The height and tilt adjustments do affect each other. Tilting back will also lower the ball height some, so i had to play with both settings till i got the adjustment right for mine.

I have not weighed mine yet but i did mark and measure the amount of loading drop i am getting on the TV. Front and rear loading drop is within .25in when spring bars are locked.

Tim

Tilting the ball back 1 more notch will lower the ball an fraction of an inch, but you will more than make up for that with the increased lift if using the same chain length.

I am not sure if I would do that though. Any more tightening up on the WDH is going to put more weight on the TM axle, and that is within 40 lbs. of being at the max. The drive axle is within 45 lbs. of being at the max. Maybe the important thing to look at is what is the weight of the front axle with no TM attached, with all other loads being the same....ie people, dogs, and stuff. You want the original weight back on the front axle, and maybe a couple of extra pounds. If the weight distributed weight is close or over the unloaded front axle weight of the Ridgeline, then I think I would just leave things the way they are. If the weight distributed weight is less than the front axle of the Ridgeline, then tightening up on the WDH might be in order.

I think the Pilot has a unibody chassis. Although I have never heard of any problems with straining that setup, I would be a little concerned with too much stress by over tightening the WDH, expecially with 1000 lb. spring bars.

Like the OPer stated, this is maximum weights at the scales, and he usually does not travel with this much. I think it is a great idea to be within the maximums loaded to the hilt, then you should be OK with a normal camping trip.

 

[Wavery]

I am not sure if I would do that though. Any more tightening up on the WDH is going to put more weight on the TM axle, and that is within 40 lbs. of being at the max. The drive axle is within 45 lbs. of being at the max.

Not to be picky but he is 200# way from being maxed out on the axle scale weight.

 

[Mr. Adventure]

Tilting the ball back 1 more notch will lower the ball an fraction of an inch, but you will more than make up for that with the increased lift if using the same chain length.

I am not sure if I would do that though. Any more tightening up on the WDH is going to put more weight on the TM axle, and that is within 40 lbs. of being at the max. The drive axle is within 45 lbs. of being at the max. Maybe the important thing to look at is what is the weight of the front axle with no TM attached, with all other loads being the same....ie people, dogs, and stuff. You want the original weight back on the front axle, and maybe a couple of extra pounds. If the weight distributed weight is close or over the unloaded front axle weight of the Ridgeline, then I think I would just leave things the way they are. If the weight distributed weight is less than the front axle of the Ridgeline, then tightening up on the WDH might be in order.

I think the Ridgeline has a unibody chassis. Although I have never heard of any problems with straining that setup, I would be a little concerned with too much stress by over tightening the WDH, expecially with 1000 lb. spring bars.

Like the OPer stated, this is maximum weights at the scales, and he usually does not travel with this much. I think it is a great idea to be within the maximums loaded to the hilt, then you should be OK with a normal camping trip.

He had the very unusual combo of full water and full holding tanks. It would be pretty easy to drop 250+# from that.

As far as I know, we've never seen a report of anyone damaging a unibody with a WDH, right?

 

[mtnguy]

Not to be picky but he is 200# way from being maxed out on the axle scale weight.

Wayne, I figured most TMs have 3500 lb. axles, and he was at 3460, so I figured 40 lbs. to go before reaching the maximum weight.

Am I missing something there ??

OK, I went back and read the stats, and realize where the figures are coming from. The OPer listed 3640 as the GAWR. That is probably the combined weight of the maximum tire loads.....1820 lbs. x 2 ?? But I think the Dexter axles are rated at 3500 lbs.

Figuring that the tire and wheel weights are not actually sitting on the axle, that would give a little more leeway, maybe 50 lbs. or so combined weight.

He had the very unusual combo of full water and full holding tanks. It would be pretty easy to drop 250+# from that.

As far as I know, we've never seen a report of anyone damaging a unibody with a WHD, right?

I have never heard of heard of anyone bending a unibody chassis either. The Pilot is a heavy buit and capable vehicle. I was just saying that I would be a little concerned.

 

[B&T2]

Figuring that the tire and wheel weights are not actually sitting on the axle, that would give a little more leeway, maybe 50 lbs. or so combined weight.

mtnguy, take a look here;

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10652&page=8

They (TM) figure that there is 140# of wheels/tires/ect and add that to the GVAW.

Tim

 

[Mr. Adventure]

...I have never heard of heard of anyone bending a unibody chassis either...

I'm somewhat less concerned about things that have never happened. But I do believe that everyone should periodically check their hitch receivers and attachment points, no matter what vehicle they're towing with.

 

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Adjustments Made

Angle of ball has been repositioned from 2 degrees to just under 9 degrees.

This should get some additional space between the tips and frame.

According to the weights taken I have plenty of availability on the trailer axle, I just need to get weight off the rear axle and on to the front.

When I am under a half tank of gas I am under the GAWR on the rear.

Will update later when I weigh.

 

[mtnguy]

Forget about my previous posts.....I must have been having 1 of those days. I did not notice that your the weight on the rear of your Pilot was over the GAWR. My apologizes. It would be good to get some of that weight off of your drive axle. It is great that you weighed your rig, and are taking the appropriate steps to remedy the problem.

 

[BigBear]

Weight of 2720SL with Chevy Trailblazer

2007 2720SL c/w a/c 2 cabinets, microwave shelf, 3drw cabinet, recliner, awning, tv antenna, bike receiver, one propane full, skid wheels, no water, about 150 lbs in misc.
Tow vehicle – 2009 Chevy Trailerblazer SUV with 5200 lbs towing capacity and with two passengers in front of vehicle and the trailer loaded as stored for the winter. In the summer we would add 450 lbs of food, bikes, chairs, clothing, etc and at times and have 60 lbs of hot water and sometimes another 300 lbs of fresh water which would make the trailer over 4100 lbs and close to the GVW of the trailer.

Hitched with WDH chains loose in lbs
Axle Rated Actual Margin
Front 2950 2513 437
Rear 3200 3174 26
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Total-SUV 5750 5686 64

Hitched with WDH chains tight
Axle Rated Actual Margin
Front 2950 2865 85
Rear 3200 2623 577
------------------------------------------
Total-SUV 5750 5488 262
Trailer 4220 3328 892
Gross Comb 10000 8816 1184

Weight of Tow Vehicle unhitched – no trailer
Front 2950 2733 217
Rear 3200 2491 709
Total 5750 5223 527

Total Weight of trailer 3593
Tongue weight with wdh chains loose 463

Tongue weight distribution with wdh fully on – 4 links
Front of SUV 132
Rear of SUV 132
Trailer 198
Comments:
1.The loadings of the rear axle of the tow vehicle with the
WDH chains loose indicate that we need the wdh chains fully
on to fully load the trailer up to over 4000 lbs.
2.With the wdh hitch fully on I am limited to just another 262 lb in the
SUV so as not to exceed the overall GVW of the SUV.
3.I had the 14 inch tires with an overall rating of 1760 lbs per tire of or
3520 lbs until last week which meant that although with the wdh on it says
I could add another 892 lbs, this would have grossly exceeded the 3520 lb
14 inch tire rating which according to others experience might cause future
tire blowouts. Therefore last week I upgraded to 15 inch Marathon Load D
or 2540 lb tires which are good for 5000 lbs so am okay now.
4.I was surprised how much of the wdh tongue load that was transferred to
the trailer axle ( nearly 200 lbs when WDH fully on). This suggests that the
only way that you could probably fully load the trailer up to the 4200 lb GVW
(with the 14 inch 3520 lb tires) is if you had something like a large truck
and did not need a weight distribution hitch. Then you could have a large
tongue load of say 600 to 700 lbs and keep the trailer axle weight to
less than the 3520 lbs.