Roadtrek window problems

Luckydog · 09-06-2018, 07:32 PM

Hello,
I have a 2003 Roadtrek 190 Versatile (2002 Dodge Ram Van), and have experienced some serious window problems, and looking for a solution. The bottom glass on the rear passenger side crank out window separated from the metal bracket/frame, and nearly fell off. Had I not noticed the rain leaking into the bed area in the rear, I probably would have lost the glass. I gorilla taped it to secure the glass to the exterior of the body so I would not lose it, then visited a Roadtrek dealer in Doylestown, PA. They would not repair it and suggested a window repair shop nearby. I went there, and was told they could not repair it.

Later, when checking online about these window issues, I read that the original supplier for these windows had gone out of business.

A couple months ago I found a local body shop who said they could fix it...they glued the glass back to the metal frame. Since then, I have not opened the window for fear of rebreaking it.

A few weeks later, while driving, I noticed a rattling sound from directly behind me. I checked the crank out window immediately behind the driver seat, and saw that the glass on this was also separated from the metal frame...apparently this glue also failed. I gorilla taped that glass to the body.

A few weeks later, while camping, I noticed that the first window that had previously failed and which was repaired...had failed again. The glue job from the body shop did not hold. So I again gorilla taped the glass to the body so as not to lose it.

I’m now at a loss as to my course of action. I’ve never been so frustrated by the inability to get something correctly repaired. I’d even be willing to consider replacing these windows if I even knew where to begin. I never thought that crank out RV windows could pose such a challenge.

Would anyone with similar experience, or with some knowledge in this issue be able to suggest a path forward?

Thanks,
Ken D.

Doneworking · 09-06-2018, 09:25 PM

I would attempt to repair it myself. If the glass is that loose, I would crank out the window fully, pull the glass carefully out of the frame. Then I would clean the inside of the frame very completely. I would also clean the glass until no more old glue was in either place. I would then carefully cut to the appropriate width and length and stick this on the top of the window glass:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-VHB-5952-A...ble+sided+tape

For the sides of the window I would use Gorilla Super Glue or the glue that is used to reattach the inside windshield mirror on vehicles (available at any auto parts store). When I put the glass back in I would work quickly because once the tape is pressed into place it is stuck. 3M tape of this caliber is what is used to attach exterior mirrors and I have used it to permanently install solar panels on the top of a motor home.

Caution: when you do this you have to really work quickly. You have about half a minute to press the glass in place and hold it there for a couple of minutes. It will take 24 hours or more for the tape bond to become totally strong.

NOW, I have never done this but I suspect it might be a method to consider or at least think about. When it was all in place, I would probably Gorilla tape that sucker in place for a few days and then remove that tape and see how it worked. I doubt if any glass or window company has ever fixed one of those Roadtrek crank out windows and but I am sure there is a commercial product to do the job, but being Rube Goldberg's brother, I would try the above method. I think you can buy the 3M tape in smaller rolls than I linked but be sure and get the heaviest duty one. Lowes, HD sell a version for interior and exterior but it ain't the same critter.

DON'T (obviously) use the tape on the sides or it will stick when you reinsert the glass and you won't make it to the top of the frame and have a heck of a mess I would guess. That is why I would use the tape and glue combo.

Other viewers may have a better thought or may have fixed a RT window.

jmai · 09-06-2018, 10:45 PM

I recently had the same problem on my 2001 190 Popular (Dodge chassis)

The upper half of the window is glued to a metal hinge. The hinge is shaped like a "C". That hinge fits into a groove in the upper hinge that attaches to the upper window. The two side arms are glued to the outside of the window. Once the side arms are removed, the window can be lifted up fairly high and then will release from the hinge.

In order to really glue that hinge to the window, you have to remove the side arms from the window and release the hinge and window.

After the hinge is attached again to the glass, you have to reinsert it in the groove and then attach the side arms to the glass. Take the screen out from the inside to have full access to the window, although most of the work will be done from the outside.

Hinge attachment

I brought my glass to a replacement windshield company so they could use a urethane sealant/glue to reattach the metal hinge to the glass. They use a sealant first to coat the glass and let it dry. This helps adhere the glue to the glass. (It appears that the original manufacturer also used a sealant on the glass.) Then the urethane sealant/glue is used to attach the hinge to the glass. (I priced up a tube of the sealant/glue and it was only a bit more expensive to have it done by professionals in a controlled environment.) Once done, I then fitted the hinge into the upper hinge. You have to lift it up high, fit it in and then lower it down. It will now stay in because the "C" shape locks it into the upper hinge. Now you have to attach the side pieces to the glass. Make sure you have the side to side position of the glass correct so it will fit in the rubber moulding when it is fully closed. The hinge will easily slide back and forth a bit.

Side arm attachment

Before I took off the side pieces, I marked their position with masking tape to use as a guide for re-positioning. I got a small tube of sealer from the windshield company and coated the glass and then used 3M VHB tape (#4991 1/2" wide) to join the side arms to the window. I stuck the tape on the inside of the piece that is attached to the arm first, but left the paper on the side that would be attached to the glass. (Do this before you fit the glass back in the hinge.) Once I was satisfied with the position of the arm against the glass, I started to peel the paper off and then stuck it to the glass. (The way I peel the paper is to cut the tape about 3/4" longer than the arm. I then cut the tape and one side of the paper to the length of the arm. The other piece of paper stays longer. Now I have a piece of paper 3/4" longer to grab. I bend this at a 45 degree angle and pull it from the side to unreel the paper as I position the arm against the glass. This allows some precision in positioning the parts.) I worked from the outside on each end of the window to position these side arms. I did one side at a time Once positioned, I then gently closed the window to check the fit of the glass within the rubber moulding. Once I was fully satisfied with he position and fit, I put clamps on the side arm piece that attaches to the glass to fully seat the double stick tape. After a day, I removed them and closed the window.

My glass was a bit twisted from one end to another so I had to use a double thickness on one side of the arm to allow the arm to fully close the glass. (Interesting note, the 3M VHB tape will not stick to itself long term. I use a layer of tin foil between the layers and that did the trick without adding any thickness)

I did this before my 6800 mile trip from Massachusetts to the Canadian Rockies and back. The window was opened and closed several times each day and the repair seems solid.

If your knob does not open the window smoothly, the gear mechanism that actually moves the arms can be replaced. A bit more complicated than glueing the window, but still doable.

Luckydog · 09-07-2018, 02:03 AM

Thank you very much for detailed answers. Let me digest your suggestions and i’ll report back!

Doneworking · 09-07-2018, 03:11 AM

I was guessing and thinking out loud in my post. jmai wasn't. He worked his way through the problem and I am printing out his post and sticking it into my Roadtrek manual for future reference in case I ever have this problem. My hat's off to him and thanks jami.

Luckydog · 09-07-2018, 03:50 AM

Jmai thank you for the well thought out detailed reply. Yes I believe your experience is very valuable. I will need to plan this project out now, and this would be a great “sticky” post, if this board has such a thing. Doneworking, your input is very helpful as well, Particularly regarding the 3m tape. Had not thought of that. Great board here with thoughtful and helpful members!

jmai · 09-07-2018, 04:38 AM

Thanks for the support. I hope this fix can help other owners.

All throughout the winter and early spring, I kept looking at my drooping window and was so discouraged. I know I would be going to Canada for a month and really did not want to immobilize my side window so it would not open and have it taped shut. After thinking about it for a while, I finally went out and separated the window from the side pieces and hinge by inserting a thin putty knife and breaking the window away from the side pieces and hinge. With the glass removed and the hinge still in place, I devised a plan to glue the window back and clamp the hinge, but as I started to play with the hinge, it started to get loose and I finally lifted it up about 120 degrees from vertical and it came out. Problem solved on how to get a good bond between hinge and glass. I'm so glad I did not have to take the whole window out of the side of the RV.

Bud · 09-07-2018, 02:37 PM

With my 05/04 190 Chevrolet: If the window detaches from the hinge, the glass will slide right through the side pieces onto the nice soft grass, or............

I suggest preventing that, but your window may be different.

Bud

jmai · 09-07-2018, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud

With my 05/04 190 Chevrolet: If the window detaches from the hinge, the glass will slide right through the side pieces onto the nice soft grass, or............

I suggest preventing that, but your window may be different.

Bud

Actually, mine has the same set-up. The side arms have two channels that slide along the angle iron bracket that attaches to the window. If the top hinge breaks, the window will slide downward.

Addition repair info

Once the hinge is reattached, you can turn the knob to open the arms a bit. The window will rest on the arms. Now you have to fit the angle iron bracket, (which already has the double sided tape attached, but still has the protective layer on the outside) into the two channels. Once in position, as indicated by the masking tape, you can peel off the protective layer and stick the bracket to the window.

michaelingp · 09-11-2018, 12:26 AM

I could be wrong, but this sounds a lot like the CR Laurence windows that were recalled. CR Laurence is still in business, but I bet they haven't serviced a recall in a decade or so. If this sounds like your window, PM me, and I'll get you the details which I don't remember off the top of my head.

Eraygunz · 09-13-2018, 05:56 PM

Hi.
Thete is a 3m product called Panel Bond....will glue anything!!!
Well just about.
It takes 6 to 8 hours to dry.
But it will hold....forever.
Go to an automotive paint supply place if you can not find it on line.
Clean glass and frame as best possible.
Have some laquer thinner handy for clean up.....
Glue it in place ....clamp in position ...after it cures.
It will not come out!
Eddie

PJW73NH · 09-13-2018, 07:10 PM

Lucky,

See my post here.

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...lued-6447.html

I had the exact same issue. I will caution you to be VERY careful and under no circumstances allow the glass to fall out and break. As you mentioned, the company is out of business, and you will have a rather unsightly hole in the side of your RT. I put a thick foam pad under my work area when I fixed mine just in case it fell out of the track.

As I mention in my post I used this system and it worked great.

3M Window Weld and One Step Primer.

Do a search for it. Amazon has it. Also, get the recommended One Step Primer too. I think I paid $40 for both.

Best..

P.

Peder_y2k · 09-13-2018, 07:38 PM

I used E6000 clear adhesive to glue in a verticly hinged rear wing window on a first gen. FORD Explorer, and that was 3 years ago and still strong being parked outdoors. Probably not the best solution, but it works.

JohnnyFry · 09-13-2018, 09:16 PM

3M make a specific adhesive for glass/metal applications and, although it is probably expensive, I would be pretty confident that it would do the job. Don't use "SuperGlue" (alpha Cyanoacrylate) as it is not designed for this use and will fail in time.
Google 3M Glass adhesive. You may have to deal with a 3M distributor to get it.

robrobrob · 11-18-2018, 08:59 PM

I have a 2002 Dodge Roadtrek 190 Popular and the window popped off at highway speeds. What a mess... we had to stop at a Home Depot, cut some smoked plexiglass and glue it on for now.

I found a replacement here: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Look-32.../dp/B003ZTQ246

The company is CRL and it's the All Glass Window Crank Out 32-1/2" (825.5 mm) x 18-1/4" (463.55 mm)

Obviously, I wouldn't trust the epoxy, so you may want to put some window weld on as well so it's good for life.

PJW73NH · 11-18-2018, 09:16 PM

Rob,

I would cl CRL and see if you can get just the glass. If not, either have a piece fabricated, or if you do end up buying a $500 replacement, save yourself a lot of time and aggravation and just swap the new glass into the old window.

I thought CRL was out of business... I guess not.

wow $500 !!!!!!!!

Boxster1971 · 11-19-2018, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJW73NH

Rob,

I would cl CRL and see if you can get just the glass. If not, either have a piece fabricated, or if you do end up buying a $500 replacement, save yourself a lot of time and aggravation and just swap the new glass into the old window.

I thought CRL was out of business... I guess not.

wow $500 !!!!!!!!

CR Laurence does not sell retails to the general public. I got my replacement window glass earlier this year from DK Hardware - good customer service. You need to have them get the right part for you - a photo of what you need helps.

https://www.dkhardware.com/van-windo..._price_price=-

Mfm · 12-06-2018, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luckydog

Hello,
I have a 2003 Roadtrek 190 Versatile (2002 Dodge Ram Van), and have experienced some serious window problems, and looking for a solution. The bottom glass on the rear passenger side crank out window separated from the metal bracket/frame, and nearly fell off. Had I not noticed the rain leaking into the bed area in the rear, I probably would have lost the glass. I gorilla taped it to secure the glass to the exterior of the body so I would not lose it, then visited a Roadtrek dealer in Doylestown, PA. They would not repair it and suggested a window repair shop nearby. I went there, and was told they could not repair it.

Later, when checking online about these window issues, I read that the original supplier for these windows had gone out of business.

A couple months ago I found a local body shop who said they could fix it...they glued the glass back to the metal frame. Since then, I have not opened the window for fear of rebreaking it.

A few weeks later, while driving, I noticed a rattling sound from directly behind me. I checked the crank out window immediately behind the driver seat, and saw that the glass on this was also separated from the metal frame...apparently this glue also failed. I gorilla taped that glass to the body.

A few weeks later, while camping, I noticed that the first window that had previously failed and which was repaired...had failed again. The glue job from the body shop did not hold. So I again gorilla taped the glass to the body so as not to lose it.

I’m now at a loss as to my course of action. I’ve never been so frustrated by the inability to get something correctly repaired. I’d even be willing to consider replacing these windows if I even knew where to begin. I never thought that crank out RV windows could pose such a challenge.

Would anyone with similar experience, or with some knowledge in this issue be able to suggest a path forward?

Thanks,
Ken D.

Same problem also on the passenger side.2014 RoadTrek Agile...the window left us while on the freeway-so don't have the glass piece. The RV service indicated that the entire panel that included the windoe would be needed to be replaced at a rather large fee.

Boyde · 08-22-2019, 02:13 PM

I have this issue and am doing the research to repair it.
Studing the side arms where the roller fits into the metal channels, I noticed that the wheel is attached to the side arm with an axle through the side arm, which is locked to the side arm with a C clip.
It would be unnecessary to detach the metal channel from the glass. Instead remove the C clip and move the arm away from the metal channel.
Does this make sense?

jmai · 08-22-2019, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boyde

I have this issue and am doing the research to repair it.
Studing the side arms where the roller fits into the metal channels, I noticed that the wheel is attached to the side arm with an axle through the side arm, which is locked to the side arm with a C clip.
It would be unnecessary to detach the metal channel from the glass. Instead remove the C clip and move the arm away from the metal channel.
Does this make sense?

Its worth a shot. I would do a test run to see if you can remove and them install the C clip with the side arms in place. Be careful because those C clips like to spring off when loosened. Put a plastic bag over the assemble and try to work inside the bag so it will catch the clip if it flies off. There is not much room to maneuver with the window open. You may have more access if you remove the inner screen and work from the inside.

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