Cutting 110 power cord

[John10ey]

In my 2012 RT P190 the shore power cord has a fixed connection in the side storage area. To use I have to unlock the storage compartment and pull the cord out. There is a hole in the storage compartment I assume is for threading the entire cord through but that's a pain. I want to be able to hook up and also lock the storage compartment. So....

Any problem with cutting the cord a foot or so from the fixed connection and adding a twist connection so that I can take the long cord out, thread upward through the provided hole, connect the twist connection, and then lock the compartment?

[peteco]

Originally Posted by John10ey

In my 2012 RT P190 the shore power cord has a fixed connection in the side storage area. To use I have to unlock the storage compartment and pull the cord out. There is a hole in the storage compartment I assume is for threading the entire cord through but that's a pain. I want to be able to hook up and also lock the storage compartment. So....

Any problem with cutting the cord a foot or so from the fixed connection and adding a twist connection so that I can take the long cord out, thread upward through the provided hole, connect the twist connection, and then lock the compartment?

The Roadtrek cord on my 2006 is very high quality and I would not want to compromise it by cutting and adding connectors to it. Instead, I suggest you make an adapter cord. Purchases the desired length of cable and the appropriate connectors.

[John10ey]

...to plug another cord into the fixed cord after threading it up through the hole? That would work if the combined cords weren't too long. I know long cords can cause a problem

[booster]

Originally Posted by John10ey

In my 2012 RT P190 the shore power cord has a fixed connection in the side storage area. To use I have to unlock the storage compartment and pull the cord out. There is a hole in the storage compartment I assume is for threading the entire cord through but that's a pain. I want to be able to hook up and also lock the storage compartment. So....

Any problem with cutting the cord a foot or so from the fixed connection and adding a twist connection so that I can take the long cord out, thread upward through the provided hole, connect the twist connection, and then lock the compartment?

If your 190 is the same as our 07, the mouse hole would be in the very rear of the cabinet right at the water the water hookup connection.


Ours is that way, and I just removed the mouse hole piece and replaced it with a receptacle for the cord. You wire the cutoff off cord to the receptacle inside the cabinet and put a matching plug on the cord. You plug in by putting the cord up from the bottom open of the water connection area and you can even shut that door all the way and latch it if you choose to. The plug is not out in the rain that way, but it is good to have the outlet that has a waterproof tire as you can get some tire spray there. I added a bit longer mudflap to the front of the driver side wheelwell and have no issues at all for over a decade, although a couple of years ago I bought a longer cable from Smartplug and put in their socket to make it easier to get plugged in.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by John10ey

...to plug another cord into the fixed cord after threading it up through the hole? That would work if the combined cords weren't too long. I know long cords can cause a problem

An additional foot or 2 shouldn't be a problem. Booster's suggestion is much better though.

[mkguitar]

you can.


but with electricity every connection increases your chances of a failure.


an "inconvenient" connection may be a helpful reminder to unplug and stow cable before driving away.


here's a links to compatible 30 amp L5-30 twistlocks:


https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...530R/303108445


https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...530P/303108444

[phantomjock]

I too was much annoyed with the RT approach to a permanently fixed shore power cord. No option, just use it as is -- and waste the storage space. NOT.

You can, remove it (takes some planning) and site an external plug (even more planning). This is the approach I took, and I note others are using another version of a plug, mounting near the rear bumper. You could search the forum and find some details on those too.

Here is the end result of a day's work, removal, cut and drill, pull and wire in. Net result - very satisfied - and "boat-like."

I gained about 7 feet of shore power cord when it was all removed. Yes, no free lunch, I had to wire in the external socket, but was on that path anyway, new inverter, charger, auto transfer, etc..


Cheers - Jim

[booster]

Here are some pix I took today as I was working on the van anyway.


This is the Smartplug in place and on shore power. The outlet has a door that is folded up and hard to see that closes and snaps tight. This is not the fully watertight socket as they were backordered when I did the change and with Covid they had no idea when they would get more.


Peteco would be happy to see that the Smartplug cord has molded on plugs on each end as we did not use our old cord, and I also wanted the molded ends. We wanted to get a few feet longer and bought the complete cord and outlet as a kit.






This is what it looks like from inside the storage area. The white cover is to protect the socket rear from sliding stuff in the storage area and is a PVC cap for large pipe with a notch for the cord and held on with a couple of L brackets.





Here is the splash shield extension I put on to prevent direct water hits or rocks from hitting the outlet when driving. Mist has not been an issue at all and that really can't be blocked well anyway.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by booster

Peteco would be happy to see that the Smartplug cord has molded on plugs on each end as we did not use our old cord, and I also wanted the molded ends. We wanted to get a few feet longer and bought the complete cord and outlet as a kit.

A molded on plug is best. The plug on my original Roadtrek cord had become somewhat loose and I was concerned the contacts would not make a good connection at some point. So I cut the plug off and put a new plug on. The new plug connection is certainly more solid but the water resistant integrity is nowhere near as good as the original.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by peteco

A molded on plug is best.

We have the molded plug, too. We'll see what happens the first time I drive off without unplugging.

[booster]

Originally Posted by avanti

We have the molded plug, too. We'll see what happens the first time I drive off without unplugging.

All you need to do is make whatever the socket is attached to breakaway.


I know that because I have seen a couple that did that, and got that

[John10ey]

Thanks, all. It's been helpful

[Deano]

I mounted mine because it is directly above the OE position, I was able to access the 10ga. wire through the hole I cut for the power receptacle.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ades-8017.html

[Bangorbob]

Deano, I guess I am stupid, but how do you access the wire from the current shore connection?
Bob

[Deano]

Naw, you are not stupid.
I removed the OE receptacle and could see the cable went straight up.
So, I took a deep breath, said a little prayer, and hole sawed the hole for the new exterior receptacle. I took it slow, the cable was almost centered just behind the MH wall. By pushing the cable from the OE hole and pulling it out of the new hole I was able to fish it out, cut and connect to the new receptacle. Which by the way is weather proof, and has threads that fit the shore power cord. I used some RTV around the new one just for peace of mind.

[Deano]

In addition to the above, this is from my 2018 post.

The shore power receptacle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose the location for the receptacle because the RT shore power 10 gauge wire is routed to the original location in the drawer, directly behind were I cut the hole. Allowing access to the wire and to mount the receptacle. The hardest part was pulling the wire up from the OE junction box as the sealer around the wire at the top of the short piece of conduit was strong.

[Bangorbob]

Originally Posted by Deano

In addition to the above, this is from my 2018 post.

The shore power receptacle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose the location for the receptacle because the RT shore power 10 gauge wire is routed to the original location in the drawer, directly behind were I cut the hole. Allowing access to the wire and to mount the receptacle. The hardest part was pulling the wire up from the OE junction box as the sealer around the wire at the top of the short piece of conduit was strong.

Sir, Could the receptacle be mounted a little higher, meaning 1-3 inches?

r/Bob

[Deano]

Don't quote me, I'd just be guessing. IIRC, I picked the position that was just above the height of the interior floor. So the floor itself would not be in the way.
So, probably, but no guarantee.

[Bangorbob]

Deano, thanks for the response. I have a few smaller issues I am going to take care of first before I tackle the hack and wack (joke for those who might not understand) on the electrical.

[Anachr0n]

Originally Posted by phantomjock

I too was much annoyed with the RT approach to a permanently fixed shore power cord. No option, just use it as is -- and waste the storage space. NOT.

You can, remove it (takes some planning) and site an external plug (even more planning). This is the approach I took, and I note others are using another version of a plug, mounting near the rear bumper. You could search the forum and find some details on those too.

Here is the end result of a day's work, removal, cut and drill, pull and wire in. Net result - very satisfied - and "boat-like."

I gained about 7 feet of shore power cord when it was all removed. Yes, no free lunch, I had to wire in the external socket, but was on that path anyway, new inverter, charger, auto transfer, etc..


Cheers - Jim

This is the approach I plan on taking. Drilling a hole in the side of the van and mounting a weatherproof connection. Now I’ll be able to store my cord anywhere and plug in to power when needed. The cord housing on my 1998 190 popular is developing cracks.