Solar Cargo trailer recommendations?

[mlts22-ClassB]

Since I boondock on weekends for the first part of the year, I'm looking for a well-made cargo trailer with a total weight loaded under 3000 pounds. This would be initially used to bring supplies in case of an ice storm, then used as storage. Estimated dimensions, 4x8, 5x8 or 5x10.

A couple mods I plan to do:

1: Reinforce the inside, then install Rotopax mounts on the sides. This would allow me to bring a good amount of additional fuel initially, and once the trailer is parked/secured, use a hitch mounted cargo rack to haul empties for refilling.

2: Install high efficiency solar panels on the roof. Inside, I'd use a MPPT controller (so I can use every watt that hits the panels) and two sets of 6v AGM golf cart batteries. To get the power where it is needed, a 2000 watt PSW inverter will do that job. While I'm gone, the batteries will charge from the panels, and when I'm onsite, the onboard batteries will be able to get charged, offsetting the drain from the furnace. It won't power the A/C or microwave, but it will be good enough to keep the house batteries topped off without having to subject others to generator noise.

3: Reinforce the doors for better security. Crime isn't a big issue, however, hockey puck locks, a stout lock on the trailer hitch, and chained wheels will guide people with larcenous thoughts to another target.

What I'm wondering is if anyone has done something similar, and what is a good brand of enclosed cargo trailer? I've seen some brands that might look OK with smooth aluminum sides, but inside, it is amazing the thing even stays together.

 

[markopolo-ClassB]

I've been looking (online mostly) at used trailers for at least a year for info for future use. I look for both travel trailers and cargo trailers and also small toy hauler trailers. I can't recommend specific brands though as I'm not knowledgeable enough. Prices are all over the map. Some of the enclosed motorcycle carrier trailers are pricy but well built all or mostly all aluminum. I've seen where people order cargo trailers built with extra interior height. There are some very interesting units out there though.

I've seen a few ads for used cargo trailers that have been semi-converted for camping use. The reason for building them seems to be to get a better built trailer than a typical travel trailer. You are looking for smaller sizes though.

If you're not planning to camp in the trailer then I'd consider putting all of the solar and inverter etc. in/on the tow vehicle. It would be easy enough to run power from the tow vehicle to the trailer when parked. Maybe 50amp Anderson connectors or something similar.

If used with a Class B for extended camping periods and in bad weather then it might be nice to have a bit bigger trailer with luxuries like a proper stand up shower and maybe a kitchen that can be left set up.

 

[markopolo-ClassB]

For ideas - this one generates a fair bit of power: http://www.techs-resource.com/Solar%20S ... elief.html

 

[stanw909]

Cheaprvlivingblog.com is exactly where you want to go to ask these questions. Bob is a great teacher and resourse.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

I wouldn't be as concerned about someone breaking into it, as I would helping themselves to your externally mounted panels. How were you going to make them "theft proof"? I'm assuming you're going to leave the trailer somewhere where it may not be under constant observation by a neighbor, or other direct view by anyone who would notice a "service van" doing "repairs" to your trailer's roof array?
How many panels were you thinking of using, and how large an area will they cover? That may affect the (roof) size requirement for your trailer.
A dual axle trailer might be another consideration. Depending on how much weight you plan to add to the trailer, a second axle gives you some low speed emergency options, in the event of a tire/wheel failure. You'll also need a trailer brake controller in the tow vehicle, depending on the GVWR rating of what you choose. That can be expensive to add to a vehicle after it leaves the factory.
Stop me, if this stuff has already been considered, or doesn't apply.

 

[mlts22-ClassB]

I wouldn't be as concerned about someone breaking into it, as I would helping themselves to your externally mounted panels. How were you going to make them "theft proof"? I'm assuming you're going to leave the trailer somewhere where it may not be under constant observation by a neighbor, or other direct view by anyone who would notice a "service van" doing "repairs" to your trailer's roof array?
How many panels were you thinking of using, and how large an area will they cover? That may affect the (roof) size requirement for your trailer.
A dual axle trailer might be another consideration. Depending on how much weight you plan to add to the trailer, a second axle gives you some low speed emergency options, in the event of a tire/wheel failure. You'll also need a trailer brake controller in the tow vehicle, depending on the GVWR rating of what you choose. That can be expensive to add to a vehicle after it leaves the factory.
Stop me, if this stuff has already been considered, or doesn't apply.

I appreciate the input. I'm not trying to make this something that is theft-proof, but will make it obvious enough that someone would have to fight to grab any goodies off of it. For example, I plan to use custom Bryce security screws to ensure that the solar panels stay put. Of course, it won't stop someone with a hankering for meth and an angle grinder, but it will keep the casual opportunist/skulker at bay. To boot, if someone does make off with the panels, that is what insurance is for. I've done my due diligence by having reasonable security measures in place, and if someone has to take power tools to obtain something, then I make a claim, and move on.

Panel-wise, I'm thinking of at least 3-4 good panels. I'd like something like Sanyo/Panasonic's HIT panels or something that collects every watt it can get ahold of to pass to the MPPT controller.

I do like the idea of a dual axle trailer because it provides stability, and when it is parked and double-chocked (wedge chocks so it doesn't roll back, X-chocks for stability), it will stay put. However, I don't want anything too big (anything past 10-12 feet, or greater than 6' in width, as it limits what I can mount on the sides.)

It is a definite idea, so all options are open. Right now, I'm looking for a good trailer maker, just because I've encountered too many that were just too poorly built, so I'd rather pay a price premium for something that should I choose to, I could just use it as a plain cargo trailer, then build the solar array on a standalone PVC frame.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

Roger on the panels, and insurance.
Wonder if you could "cage" them somehow to add another layer of difficulty, without sacrificing sun exposure? Like window bars, only carriage or stove bolted into the trailer roof, nuts on the inside? If a pro thief thought they would have to damage them trying to get them loose, they might take a pass. Just a thought.

It'll be interesting to see what you come up with as a mobile off the grid power creation/storage system.

If you're near PPL Motorhomes in Houston, maybe try asking them about which trailers would support the greatest amount of payload in a small manageable package. Someone there might have an opinion on trailer builders, based on recall/repair experiences. Again, just a thought.
Does the Roadtrek dealer in New Braunfels sell utility/contractor style trailers? They might have an idea of what would work best with a class B van as the tow vehicle. Sizes and weights and GCVWR numbers. Either place would probably be able to give you some ideas of the pitfalls of this sort of project, before you start.
Another thought, maybe try asking Northern Arizona Wind and Sun in Flagstaff, or some other (much more nearby?) off the grid hardware dealer/installer specialty shop, and see if anyone else has done this, and what they used? They are pretty good at answering emails, based on personal experience.

If I come up with anything else, I'll keep quiet. :wink:

 

[mlts22-ClassB]

Naw, your advice is wise, and greatly appreciated.

I thought of an enclosure, but if any cells of panels get obscured, the energy obtained can fall off by 50%. Probably my best bet is using the offering from Bryce Fasteners which is similar to locking lug nuts, but different for each customer. That way, someone has to Dremel a slot into each screw, or find some other way to butcher the mountings off, likely trashing the panels in the process.

I still have some homework to do, such as what voltage panels, what charge controller (thinking a TriStar MPPT controller), how many batteries and types (I like the amp-hours obtainable from six two volt batteries in series), etc.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

Based on what you already have on the mental drawing board, Randy at Best Converter would be a good choice for an advisor (and supplier) on what parts would work best together.
http://www.bestconverter.com/
Just tell him what your plan is, and see what he recommends.
No obligation for good advice.
I've also emailed AM Solar for off grid info and suggestions, and they're supposed to be pretty good at supply and installation. They may have even done similar projects, too.

 

[mlts22-ClassB]

Thanks for the pointer. I'm still figuring out how much I should spend on this project, and if the gains are worth it, because the trailer would only be used a part of the year, then either in storage, or I'll let someone on site use it for "free" electricity in the off season.

I might just start off without solar, and just get a battery bank, converter, and a 1000 watt generator which can run inside the trailer (assuming I can find a trailer with water resistant vents and fans to ensure good airflow.) That will keep noise down by a good amount. Then, see about adding the CC and panels as time/money permits.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

If you're having doubts about whether it will be worth it, maybe you should start with determining the tow vehicle readiness? If that's going to be either costly or complex or both, you might decide to do something different instead. I've been dragging my feet for years over whether to add a decent higher capacity inverter to my Roadtrek, and some rooftop solar panels to assist in recovering used voltage. It's just been back burnered so many times, for numerous reasons, I laugh at myself whenever the mood to revisit it strikes me.

Like I said, you'll need to have a trailer brake controller added to your tow vehicle for most trailers, but that varies by State Law. Also, some sort of wiring harness and isolator added from the alternator to the rear bumper to allow you to charge your trailer batteries while driving. Depending on the make/model the wiring loom may already be in place, and you'll just need the dash mounted part added.
This project is probably going to resemble pulling a travel trailer or 5th wheel in terms of safety equipment requirements, and electrical connections between the tow vehicle and trailer. If you need any help with that, I've just been through it all. I dealt with Ford dealerships (my tow vehicle is an F-150) for the most part, and am satisfied with the results.
Would a small contractor's trailer be built better than a general utility trailer? Maybe there are custom shops near you that up fit them for commercial use and might be able to help?

 

[mlts22-ClassB]

Very good advice. Tow vehicle readiness is a top thing on my mind. For example, my current TV (Ford F-150) has a factory TBC which pulses the brakes should the trailer start swaying. Then, there is the transmission cooler.

I live in Austin, and the one thing I make sure of is to keep the braking distance of my vehicles as short as possible, so any trailer I get will have electric brakes just so it stops about the same as my TV does.

Since I'm still cleaning up mess from an ID theft issue (most likely suspect was a place I worked at, more than 7-8 years ago, got hacked recently), I might as well wait to see how the Ducato fares on US soil, or at least until September when Mercedes/FL ship the 2014s. Either way, there will be a transmission cooler on the vehicle, as well as a TBC.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

Austin? Nice town. Been there 3 times, starting in March 2009. We did a quick trip to FL for some spring training baseball, got bored after a few days, and decided to head west along I-10 towards Grand Canyon. That was an interesting trip. Totally unplanned, and it was our third trip by RV so we were serious newbies at it.
Wound up heading north and west after Houston, and wound up in Austin on our way father west. The State Capitol was under renovations I believe back then, so we returned a year later and did our self tour of it. It's one of our travel "things", visiting State Capitols. We want to do the entire lower 48 first, and then we'll figure out how (or if) we do the last two. We've got about 8 left to visit, mostly near DC. We've done all of them west of the Mississippi as of 2011.

That's probably not a bad way to do it. Get the personal stuff resolved, and while you do that, the choice of an RV/TV may become more clear. If you've got the time, might as well take it slow.
Hope it all works out. :thumbup:

 

[Rick-ClassB]

I sometimes tow a small 4x6 trailer from hallmark, here is a link;
http://www.haulmark.com/bumper-pull_car ... ort-4wide/
My trailer is actually not as high, about waist high, I don't see it on their website any more. We carry our dinning tent, BBQ and larger lawn chairs, carpet etc. it is nice and light, I move it by hand, does not require a brake set. They seem to be well made but pricey. Is this the kind of trailer you would be looking for?

rick

 

[Rick-ClassB]

I just found the trailer I have on the hallmark website, here is the link;
http://www.haulmark.com/special-cargo_c ... gotrailer/

 

[Mike-ClassB]

That's a cool looking trailer, kinda like a Coleman cooler on wheels.
May not be what mlts22 wants, but I like it. :clap:

 

[mlts22-ClassB]

That is a cool trailer. I really don't need much storage, so it would work well.