Yep, its a little on the lame side and probably been done before, but I don't think its too bad for my first effort.

For the two bottom shelves (16 inch deep), I used aluminum channel stock on the left side (shelves sit in the channel) and aluminum angle stock on the right (shelves sit on the angle). The three 12 inch shelves sit on quarter inch pin shelf brackets. Extra holes allow different shelf spacing.

The plywood panel on the bottom creates a floor (with a little space underneath). That's a battery 'stick up' light at the upper left.

Dan F.
RoadTrek Adventurous

For some reason, the after photo shows up first: view from bottom up.

Attached Images

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	after2.jpg (92.4 KB, 2623 views)

Thank you for taking the time to post the photo and the idea. I am going to try it in my LTV closet. Sometimes simple is the best. It may have been done before, but I hadn't seen it, and I am always checking for simple and useful modifications.

Dan, Neat idea...no lame ideas if it works for you. You did a real professional looking job that should serve you well....or you can modify it again. Safe travels. Ron

__________________
Ron J. Moore
'15 RT210P

Thanks! They're working out very well.

Dan F. 2008 RSA

I like that.
Simple, functional, and looks good too.
I have been thinking about how I could make the "closet" ( ) in our 210P a little more user friendly.
Do you mind if I copy your idea ?

Can you tell me where you got the wire shelving and what brand it is?
And unless they make it in enough sizes that you could find some to fit, I would guess you had to cut it to get the right width? How did you finish the cut ends?

Thanks
John

Lowe's or Home Depot stocks white wire shelving in 6' lengths and longer. Its made by either Lee-Rowan or Closet-Made or some other generic name; depends on which store you go to. I used 16" width for the lower shelves and 12" as the cabinet narrows towards the top. Both have a lip that you can see in the photo to keep things from sliding.

The shelving cuts to length with a fresh hacksaw blade pretty easily; I usually dress the cut ends with a metal file. The same manufacturers sell small white caps for the cut ends. They are usually with the mounting hardware which should be next to the shelf displays at the above-mentioned big box stores.

I'm not happy with the 1/4" pin shelf supports (the kind you'd find in bookcases with two vertical rows of holes on either side). The RT closet particle board is soft enough so the holes I drilled for these worked themselves large pretty soon and now the pins fall out. A wrap of tape around the pin will probably fix it for a while. And it keeps the Mrs. happy that the shelves are adjustable.

Great project for a holiday weekend! Have a happy one.

Dan F.

When are shelves not shelves? When they are cubbies! I have a 30" closet. First I hung up all my stuff. OK, but a lot of wasted space below the shirts,jackets. So I bought a shoe hanger, and a "sweater hanger". My closet "pole" is actually metal,perforated to hold individual hangers, so I had to be sure I was getting hangers and not sleeves. Shoes up against left wall, cubbies on right, space for jackets in center with a bin underneath for odds/ends. I roll my shirts, fold the jeans... Plenty of room. I found a little plastic basket that fit perfectly in the top cubby and became the smalls 'drawer'. Whole thing cost about $20. and took 5 minutes.

shezonit,
Hey, whatever works. We had a bunch of those plastic drawer units, so I tried them but couldn't find a fit we liked. Seems like you always need space for just one more pair of socks.

Dan

Nah, those drawer things are not flexible enough and the drawers always jam. I use clearish bags or trays and store odds/ends under the passenger seat and behind the driver seat- I have a lot of space there.
But, the best was getting rid of excess.... After my first winter in the van, I removed anything I hadn't used-- wow. About a whole tub's worth. Probably do the same after this trip.