Bilstein Shocks Upgrade

markopolo · 11-20-2013, 02:49 PM

Just some notes re: Bilstein shocks on Chevy / GMC vans.

I used part # 24-024808 for the front shocks and 24-221948 for the rear shocks.

1997-2002 Bilstein part # 24-024808 Front - Heavy Duty Series (old part # F4-BE5-2480-H1)
Newer vans would use:
2003- Bilstein part # 24-187435 Front - Heavy Duty Series (old part # F4-BE5-G611-H0)

I think the rear shock part # 24?221948 is current for 1996-2013 Express / Savana 3500 vans.

You can search for part numbers here by entering your vehicle year, make & model here: http://cart.bilsteinus.com/

Old hardware left new hardware right

booster · 11-20-2013, 04:50 PM

Those are basically the same front mounts that we got with our Bilsteins. Were the shocks you took out the originals?

The OEM top mount in ours looked something like this. (this is just the lower half, I haven't been able to find a good pic of the whole thing.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Shock...11048979171%26

The big thing with them is that the rubber is bonded to the washers, and there is is solid pilot up the middle that engages the top bushing and the frame. The rubber that goes through the frame is where ours beat out.

Yours may have been different OEM also because of the design change of the front end in 2003.

Found a pic of the 2007 setup on the AC Delco site, but they didn't have a pic of yours.

markopolo · 11-20-2013, 08:58 PM

Yes, original shocks were on my van - stamped '96 on all 4 shocks. The hole that the threaded rod of the shock passes through is 5/8" diameter or a fraction less. It's just a bit larger than the rod. Is the top mount hole larger on newer vans?

WJones · 11-20-2013, 09:50 PM

markopolo,

A bit off topic but ... I'm amazed as to the amount of surface rust (or I should say lack thereof) under your 1997 van. I imagine it doesn't get out too much during the winter???

William

booster · 11-20-2013, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WJones

markopolo,

A bit off topic but ... I'm amazed as to the amount of surface rust (or I should say lack thereof) under your 1997 van. I imagine it doesn't get out too much during the winter???

William

I had the exact same impression!

booster · 11-20-2013, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markopolo

Yes, original shocks were on my van - stamped '96 on all 4 shocks. The hole that the threaded rod of the shock passes through is 5/8" diameter or a fraction less. It's just a bit larger than the rod. Is the top mount hole larger on newer vans?

I just went a dug out the old top mounts that I saved, just in case I needed them. The spud that is part of the lower part of the mount is about .780" on the bigger diameter and about .600 " on the smaller diameter, which fits into the upper part of the mount. The .780 diameter is what contacts the body, and it is hard plastic, so it won't get beat out like the all rubber ones did. The hole has to be bigger on the later vans like ours. The angles the shock works at may be worse on the later vans, making the change necessary to keep them from ruining the mounts.

markopolo · 11-21-2013, 12:48 AM

You're right about me not driving it in winter after they put salt on the roads. I don't think it was used in the winter much for the 14 years the first owner had it either. But another reason is that everywhere / everything underneath is coated in rust preventing oil. The original owner used Krown Rust Control http://www.krown.com and I use Rust Check http://www.rustcheck.com. I sprayed the shock mounts and sway bar with Rust Check after installing them. I sprayed the holes I had to drill. Same when I installed the hitch etc. and I re-spray where the jack and axle stands made contact.

I do the same with our car and it looks good underneath (I had it up on ramps last week) and it is driven year round. That stuff works. The only negative is that I get so full of grime when I work underneath.

-------------------------------------------

We went out for a test drive today and like the feel of the new shocks on the van. Any dips or bumps are very much under control. No pitching or bouncing. I added a sway bar at the same time and cornering is much improved. Minimal lean now on right angle turns.

I noticed a bit of lazy left and right drifting on the highway that I think will be taken care of with the wheel alignment next week. My wife like the way the van feels too. I was very relaxed in the passenger seat today even on the poorly maintained side roads. In the past I've felt like I needed to hang on.

booster · 11-21-2013, 01:57 AM

When I got the Roadmaster, I looked at getting it sprayed in Canada as you guys get all the good rustproofing we can't get here. Almost drove to Ontario to get it done, but then decided to use my old tried and true LPS3 in a hand sprayer. Just did the whole underside this week with it. As you say, what a mess.

I looked at the Rustcheck site again, and they list retail products, but no pricing or how to buy them, or if they can come into the U.S. Got any insights on that?

Does the Rustcheck stay, moist/waxy like the LPS does? Once the solvent flashes, the LPS is a soft waxy surface that doesn't really hold dirt (will hold grease though) too bad, but rubs off on you when you are under the car doing anything.

AK49er · 11-21-2013, 02:42 AM

Hi marko, glad to see you have the upgrades installed, I know you have been anxious to get at it. I will be curious to see the overall improvement to the rig after the alignment, keep us informed. When I had new tires put on, I had the shop install the shocks that I bought online so I can't tell you if any problems were found, at least nothing was brought up to me. Maybe this will get me into the mood to install my sway-bar that I have or not!

markopolo · 11-21-2013, 07:11 PM

AK - maybe call around to get a estimate for a mechanic to instal the sway bar. It is the type of job that would be much quicker and easier if the van was at a comfortable working height. An assistant would be very helpful.

You're right - I was anxious to get all the parts and to get the job done and get a few drives in before parking my van for the winter. Can't wait to get the alignment done next week. I asked the shop to call me if they have any cancellations before my appointment and I'd go in on short notice.

The tough part in way was the decision to spend the money on all the upgrades to my older van. Once that decision was made I just want it all done!

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re: Rust Check there are a few US dealers listed at this link:

http://www.rustcheck.com/index.php?k...ator&limit=100

I take the car into a garage that does it for me every year. It's like $130 to have them do it - not cheap. I've had them do the van but I don't have it done every year. Instead, I used the retail aerosol cans to do areas that I think need it on the van and for touch ups on the car. Big box retailers like Walmart carry it here. A nearby Napa store carries it also and they said I could order it in gallon jugs if I wanted to. I have a light oil spray gun that I could use but it really would be a mess.

I'd describe Rust Check as remaining oily. It attracts dirt. Initial applications will wash off but after a while and subsequent applications you get a permanent oily or greasy film. It is a very light weight oil that creeps or spreads over time. You can easily spot cars that have had it done because the oil creeps out around door handles and the bottom of doors. The clear or amber colored oil that creeps out attracts dirt and looks black.

There are few other negatives:

The car or van drips Rust Check for days after having it done.
Soft spongy rubber like weather stripping can be ruined by it, basically loosing it shape.

LPS3 looks like it might be a better product.

booster · 11-24-2013, 03:52 PM

I looked in my junk box of rubber parts yesterday and found the beat up Bilstein upper mounts that had been on our van. The shoulder on them that goes in the frame hole is just over .600", so it looks like Bilstein missed the boat on the hole size increase, and that is probably why the beat out so badly with that style, where the older ones with the right size hole for the mounts, holds up better.

markopolo · 11-24-2013, 04:35 PM

That's good info to have. .60" equals the 5/8" I measured.

So would it be '96 to '02 old style and '03 & up newer style on Chevy's? I guess the best answer, regardless of make of the vehicle is to make sure the new parts look like what came off the vehicle and if they don't then find out why.

I did find this photo on Bilsteins site for a different model shock:

So, if anyone gets the wrong parts, contact them for replacement and/or use the OEM parts if in good shape instead of the wrong parts.

booster · 11-24-2013, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markopolo

That's good info to have. .60" equals the 5/8" I measured.

So would it be '96 to '02 old style and '03 & up newer style on Chevy's? I guess the best answer, regardless of make of the vehicle is to make sure the new parts look like what came off the vehicle and if they don't then find out why.

I did find this photo on Bilsteins site for a different model shock:

So, if anyone gets the wrong parts, contact them for replacement and/or use the OEM parts if in good shape instead of the wrong parts.

That sure looks like the right mount. I managed to get the right ones from them, but some folks have been refused since, which doesn't say much for Bilstein customer service. Some reused the OEM stuff, which holds up very well it appears, and some bought new ones from GM.

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